T-Trak Transporting T-TRAK modules

[Dave V]

T-TRAKers,

Is there a more novel or creative way to transport T-TRAK modules beyond simply laying them flat in the back of the Honda Pilot?

I've debated adding bolt holes on mine and actually stacking them w/ posts made of 1x3 or something.

The deal is when I lay all my modules into the Honda with the seats down (and put a few on top of my train transport box) that's kinda it on space.

Patricia and I were considering taking the dog with us and staying in Denver for the Rocky Mountain Train Show in April and there's no way to transport him or our overnight bags with this kind of setup.

[dem34]

T-TRAKers,

Is there a more novel or creative way to transport T-TRAK modules beyond simply laying them flat in the back of the Honda Pilot?

I've debated adding bolt holes on mine and actually stacking them w/ posts made of 1x3 or something.

The deal is when I lay all my modules into the Honda with the seats down (and put a few on top of my train transport box) that's kinda it on space.

Patricia and I were considering taking the dog with us and staying in Denver for the Rocky Mountain Train Show in April and there's no way to transport him or our overnight bags with this kind of setup.

I know a lot of older modules that keep to the stricter size constraints do the thing where you put wood backed skyboards on every module then for transport you flip them opposite of eachother and bolt together, skyboards acting as box sides then just securing something to the ends to keep the dust out. Idea being you have taller scenery in back and near flush scenery by the track so they "slot together" nicer.

I used to have a system of 3D printed stands that would just keep 2 modules seprated by about 3 inches but otherwise uncovered.

[Dave V]

I'm torn on skyboards at shows. At least at this last show, my layout had a definite front and back, and at least folks could see the "back" from the "front."

[randgust]

I have permanent 1/4" lightweight plywood (blondewood) skyboards on all of mine, settled on 10" above module surface.   And I have custom made end pieces out of 1/4" plywood, with holes cut in to clear the end track connectors, protecting those during transport.   Screw right into the sides of the modules, and one is flipped over the other to essentially make a box.   And handle holes cut in the ends for easy gripping.   When they are in storage, also makes for good dust covers.

I put a piece of 1x1 pine on the ends so that there's something for the flipped track rails to rest on during the 'flip' and before the screws are put in, to prevent a catastrophic drop on the module underneath.

The whole skyboard idea is underrated.   That can give you photo backdrops, and makes for excellent outdoor photography potential.   On 'drop' modules down to minimum height for bridge modules, that also gives you a structural reinforcement to prevent vertical warp.

I still hold them on with wood screws, not glue or nails, if I have to take them off I can, as during scenery prep you don't want your photo backdrops all messed up.

The last one I made was a challenge, a double flipped on top of two singles.   I had to put a 'floor' under the bottom singles, drop the leg bolts out, put them through the 'floor' for a structural box, then the ends on, then the flipped double on top.   

For shows I used to use a power screwdriver to do this rapidly, now I've found a rachet screwdriver is just as fast to tear down and set up.    When they are all screwed up for transport, it's a rugged protective system.  And there's nothing like watching a train show tear down, day and a half to set up and out the door in 40 minutes to an empty room, so you need a plan and a system!   And the most valuable thing you own is a hand cart and some bungee cords to handle them safely during the scramble.

All the module damage I've had has NEVER been during the show itself.   Transport, setup and teardown.   You want to spend as much time on that design as anything else.  I've seen some really creative stuff at Altoona, up to chest-high roll-on, roll-off racks on wheels.

[Dave V]

I have skyboards I've not used yet, but good call. We'll see how that goes.

Interfaces like this one certainly cry out for skyboards....!

[Point353]

You could build a rack to fit in your SUV that would allow you to stack multiple modules.
Make it as tall as you want, depending upon whether or not you want to block the view from the rear-view mirror.
It could even be totally enclosed to protect the modules from your dog.

[N Scale Train Boy]

I'll share some pictures of what I do tonight, but I basically use Sams club 28 gallon bins with 3d printed inserts and PVC pipe to store and transport up to 2 standard double modules per bin. It may not work so well with skyboards, but if you have those removable it would still work fine. Tall scenery or wide modules (broad curves) may struggle to fit though.

[randgust]

Ed K has taken this to a 'whole 'nuther level' with not just the skyboard, but the top 'shadow box' complete with controlled lighting.

That's the most spectacular module for photography we had.   A forehead slap for all Ttrak.   And it forms its own transport box.

[Dave V]

Ed K has taken this to a 'whole 'nuther level' with not just the skyboard, but the top 'shadow box' complete with controlled lighting.

That's the most spectacular module for photography we had.   A forehead slap for all Ttrak.   And it forms its own transport box.

Yeah, that is pretty badass. I know he wants me to shadow box my modules as well. Not quite ready to go that far just yet.

Another option, since we're only showing in North Denver, is to have Patricia follow me with another car and the dog, LOL.

Hopefully, though, I can save a bunch of space and protect the modules by doing the skyboard-box-thing.

[Point353]

Another option, since we're only showing in North Denver, is to have Patricia follow me with another car and the dog, LOL.

If you have a receiver/hitch on your SUV, you could rent a small (4' x 8') enclosed U-Haul trailer.

[crrcoal]

27 gallon tote from Lowes or HD. Has to be the yellow lid version. Then using these 3D printed brackets, you can put two doubles or 4 singles per tote.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6899666 all is explained in this link.

[Dave V]

If you have a receiver/hitch on your SUV, you could rent a small (4' x 8') enclosed U-Haul trailer.

I used to do that with the old Juniata Division v1. Hard pass as an option for this though. Much more expensive and a hassle compared to having her follow in the EV.

27 gallon tote from Lowes or HD. Has to be the yellow lid version. Then using these 3D printed brackets, you can put two doubles or 4 singles per tote.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6899666 all is explained in this link.

Interesting...

[N Scale Train Boy]

27 gallon tote from Lowes or HD. Has to be the yellow lid version. Then using these 3D printed brackets, you can put two doubles or 4 singles per tote.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6899666 all is explained in this link.

This is pretty much exactly what I do. Again, will share photos when I get home tonight (have to pull them all out for a meet tomorrow anyway )

[ednadolski]

Interfaces like this one certainly cry out for skyboards....!

Hoo yah,  totally need the backdrop.  Being able to see the opposite side of the other module is no sub for that.  A backdrop it its own form of artwork, no different from the rest of the module.

Candidly, I don't see why seeing the back side of other modules is such a plus.   I think that for people to walk around for a better look ought to be more engaging than a casual glance from the back side.   But that's just me, a committed 

I should think that a detachable skyboard or backdrop ought to be simple to transport, provided it is protected from damage.


Ed

[arbomambo]

I leave my skyboards attached to my modules during transport.
(I always use skyboards when I can - I very much dislike T-TRAK modules/layouts w/o skyboards and continually set up/arranged in the basic, original “oval on a table” setup. To my mind it’s the difference between the old 4x8 sheet of plywood layout, where one could plant their fanny and view the whole layout as if they’re in a plane 500’ above, or an around the room linear shelf layout, where one can walk along and follow their train through the countryside, i.e. modules, and focus on the individual modules/scenes as the trains pass through them.) That’s another great thing about T-TRAK modules, they can be set up in just about any configuration you can imagine.
I can imagine Dave’s series of Pennsy modules set up linearly, against a wall, using balloon modules at each end to return a train back through the modules on the rear/yellow track. Add an inside corner module and now you can set up along two corner walls.
 But I digress… leaving my skyboards attached, I usually arrange my modules in the back area of the SUV or sedan, with the skyboards acting as the vertical supports of a shelf system.
I then take a section of extruded polystyrene insulation foam, that I’ve cut to fit the rear space of the SUV, and lay that on top of the skyboards, forming a lightweight shelf. I can then stack more modules on top of that shelf, and so on and so on.
My total skyboard height is 10” (7-1/4” above the top of the module) so I can usually stack three layers of modules.
I’ve transported over 20’ of modules this way before, without any excess weight stacking or bolted on frames.
If I have an area that needs extra vertical supports for the foam shelf, I also carry a few extra pieces of foam, cut to the 10” height, that can act as an extra vertical shelf support. I also keep small pieces of foam to place between the modules to keep the fascias from rubbing against each other and scuffing the paint or plaques.
Simple and lightweight. At home I keep the modules in large lexan tubs with lids where they remsin dust free.