My First N Scale Complete (failure) Top-Bottom Loco Weathering

[chuck geiger]

Hard to believe this is my first N Scale top-bottom locomotive weathering attempt. Even a fine airbrush mix of Tamyiya Flat White with mostly IPA produces specks on the lowest nozzle setting. So I came in with kids' pastel chalks and added some rust from Badger Model Flex, which sucks. Sprayed some Testor's dull coat over it and will go back at it later. Trucks need improvement. But the first attempt. Best lesson learned, stay away from the airbrush for fading in N  scale, using the Ed method next time. Washes are my friend.

[ednadolski]

Best lesson learned, stay away from the airbrush for fading in N  scale

Have you tried this method?  https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=16573.msg141711;topicseen#msg141711

Also, avoid IPA.  Flat white by itself is probably too opaque and could lead to a 'frosty' look.  Oh, and don't forget the clear flat coat first.

Ed

[chuck geiger]

Thanks Ed and Gary - Yes good stuff...

[chuck geiger]

Went back and wiped it with Q tips and IPA and reworked it. Next one going the Gary route!

[James Costello]

Another disciple of "Fading Fast" here and here are my notes:

• Fade with an airbrush
• weather and detail with paint, washes and powders to suit
• stick with water based paints (I'd start with Vallejo these days) for the fade until you've mastered it, and the strategy behind fading fast applies just the same to Vallejo vs PollyScale
• Leave the Tamiya alone

[chuck geiger]

Thanks James.

[ednadolski]

Went back and wiped it with Q tips and IPA and reworked it. ...

To my eye that now looks like a pretty good representation of a heavily-used loco with distressed paint.  I don't think you need too much more fade after that..... maybe a bit more bleaching effect on the yellow areas & lettering (mostly white paint w/a hint of yellow so it doesn't look too stark), selective applied with a fine-tip brush in thin layers, but that's just as an optional enhancement, not strictly needed.

Remember, one key part of convincing weathering is to know when to stop  (ask me how I learned that) 

Ed

Edit - I recall from a while back one of the MTW gurus mentioned the idea of 'take away' weathering -- apply the effect stronger that you intend, then clean off some of it to reduce the intensity.   Sounds to me like a good description of what you've done here

[ednadolski]

^^ P.S.  could you please also post an 'after' pic of the other side?  --Ed

[chuck geiger]

[Jesse6669]

You can airbrush fade with flat white.  It just needs to be very, very, VERY thin.  I think with a mix of water and IPA, roughly 1/3 99% IPA to 2/3 water (or Tamiya X20A).  I also add a drop or two of wetting solution/flow improver to the mix, and generally spray at a low PSI (less than 20psi).   I don't get any spots, and this is in Z scale.

Maybe practice on some old junk cars first before going for it on a loco?

[chuck geiger]

Thanks Jesse.

[Spades]

Gary Hinshaw has a great post/technique on Fading.  He replaced the acrylics with water solvable oils:

 https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=16573.msg714769#msg714769

Acrylics dry pretty quickly sometimes too quickly.  Oils do take a bit of time, make that long time to dry. That long drying time is great to work with and correct mistakes.

[Spades]

Chuck, I always enjoy seeing your work. As you know not everything turns out right or perfect the first or 100th time.  I am a big fan of DansRailroad2011.  It's a great resource and as everybody else who has ever weathered a model.  You can see progress  with every model.  Thanks for posting.  In your modelling,  I see things that I want to try and attempt what I wouldn't have done on my own.

[Sokramiketes]

This is about what things look like in early stages.  And you'll be amazed what happens when you come back over the light washes with something darker to reestablish the shadows and crevices. 

[chuck geiger]

thanks mike