N Scale Business Car Build (NS/PGE/BCR/BCPM)

[BCR 570]

Installation of Underframe
OK time to install the underframe.  My plan was to install the forward Keystone half first, then the rear Micro-Trains portion, and finally the rear Keystone half.

After placing the shell upside down on the styrene block, I applied the CA to the top side of the underframe half and positioned it on top of the floor.  I then positioned my clamping jigs on top of the underframe half and applied the clamps:




After confirming that I had a nice flat and tight bond, I let it set up:




With the rear Keystone underframe half clamped in place temporarily, I applied CA to the topside of the Micro-Trains underframe portion and glued it in place:




This close-up of the Micro-Trains underframe portion shows the rear platform in place temporarily to ensure correct location of the underframe part:




After that had set up, I practised installing the rear underframe half with the tungsten rod inserted into the forward half.  This was achieved by bending the shell down to slide the rod into the forward half and then seating the rear underframe half:




With the front underframe half clamped again, the rear underframe half was then glued in place and clamped using the clamping jigs:




Here are the three underframe parts after installation.  I have a nice butt joint between the rear underframe half and the Micro-Trains portion, but there is a small gap between the underframe halves so I might try and fill that with styrene.  Note the tungsten rod weight now embedded in the centre sill - clever design John!




With everything unclamped, I have a small amount of deflection on the floor which I should be able to correct when the sides go in:




This is a significant step forward.  Next I will plug that gap in the centre and then move on to getting the sides installed.


Tim

[BCR 570]

Installation of Underframe (cont.)
I have filled the gap between the underframe halves with strip styrene:




Now on to installation of the sides!


Tim

[BCR 570]

Preparation of Detail Parts
The Keystone underframe kit came with a supply of detail parts for the various appliances found underneath Pullman cars, and instruction sheets identifying the parts:




I have started cleaning these up and attempting to identify what they are and to determine which ones I can use for my car:




There are several parts which I will need that are not supplied in the kit, including some roof parts.  My friend Geoff assisted me with getting these drawn and printed:




Printed parts for small roof hatch, air tanks, equipment boxes and large roof hatch:




Initial clean-up of parts:




I also picked up some Athearn 36" metal wheelsets during a visit to the hobby shop in Calgary.  I believe I now have all of the detail parts required for the model.


Tim

[BCR 570]

Assembly of Etched Sides (cont.)
I have been held up getting the sides installed due to constant delamination of the etched layers.  This is now beyond frustrating.  I have replaced my CA twice and kept the sides perfectly flat under weights, yet the upper layer keeps popping off.  The CA seems incapable of counteracting the inherent curve in the etched parts.




If this keeps happening after the sides are installed I may have to abandon this approach and return to my scratchbuild.  I never had this problem with styrene!


Tim

[BCR 570]

Installation of Sides
On to the seminal part of the build - installing the etched sides.  If this doesn't go well it is back to scratchbuilding this car . . . . .

My plan was to place the shell upside down on the styrene block, apply CA to the edge of the floor and underframe, and the edge of the front and rear walls.  I positioned a loose styrene spacer on the near side of the block to help keep the side straight.  I did a few practice runs without CA:




This is the left side after cementing in place.  I left the dangling rivet strip loose to deal with later:




So far, so good.  I glued the second side in place, and then when I went to remove the shell from the styrene block, this happened:




The letterboard de-laminated from the side, the side de-laminated from the styrene, and at this point I nearly threw the whole thing into the garbage in frustration.

Fortunately, with age comes wisdom, and I walked away to deal with it another day.  I decided to try and re-laminate one layer at a time and try to reassemble everything as best I could.  I started with the loose rivet strip on the left side:




I then started on the right side with one layer at a time, using steel blocks to keep everything in place while curing:




And here is the salvaged model, now with both sides installed into the shell.  Not quite as neat and tidy as I would have liked, but I think it counts as a save:




This the left side.  There is a lot of stray CA after numerous attempts to lock down the rivet strips, so that will have to be cleaned up:




This is the right side and rear end:




I think the roof will be next.


Tim

[BCR 570]

Preparation of Roof
The roof is a 3D printed part from Keystone Details which was printed some years ago now via Shapeways.  it will require some sanding to smooth out the print lines across the curves, but before doing so I thought I would locate and drill the holes for the various detail parts as the print lines might just help with steadying the drill bit as it starts.

I began by revisiting the car at the Railway Museum of BC in Squamish for the purpose of obtaining reference photographs and field measurements for location of the various detail parts.  This is a view looking forward, showing the large and small access panels, smoke jack and vent pipes:




Looking back towards the rear of the car, we see the long antenna (for a trainphone?) with its 24 stanchions:




Using a scale rule, I marked off locations for the two access panels, and the stanchions for the long antenna:




I used a #80 drill bit to produce the holes for the antenna stanchions.  The print lines definitely helped with steadying the drill bit when starting:




Another view of the holes for the antenna stanchions being drilled:




I drilled out the hole for the Period Miniatures smoke jack, starting with a #80 drill bit and working my way up until it fit through the hole:




I then discovered that instead of enlarging the hole for the smoke jack, I had accidentally enlarged one of the holes for the longitudinal grab iron nearby  .  I plugged the hole with styrene rod and let the CA set up.  Here you can see the styrene rod in the accidentally enlarged hole, and the new hole for the smoke jack above and to the right nearby:




Using a file and a sanding stick, I filed down the styrene rod flush with the curve of the roof, and re-drilled the hole for the longitudinal grab iron.  I also drilled three #80 holes for the vent pipes forward of the access panels:





The holes for the roof grab irons were located and drilled previously.  With all holes for the detail parts now located and drilled out, I can proceed with sanding the roof.


Tim

[BCR 570]

Preparation of Roof (cont.)
I was advised to check that the roof will snap into place between the sides as the original Micro-Trains roof did.  The replacement roof has the same retention numbs on the sides which into the car.  As the etched sides now have a styrene backing, it was possible that I would have to notch the styrene to accommodate the retention nubs.

As it turns out, the strip of styrene along the tops of the sides fits above the retention nubs.  The roof is quite a tight fit but does appear that it will snap into place.  I may end up thinning the styrene a little at the location of the retention nubs to aid in installation of the roof without placing undue stress on the sides.  This view shows the back of one of the sides up against the side of the roof:




With all of the locating holes for detail parts now drilled, it was time to sand the roof smooth.  Prior to doing so I transferred my locating marks for the two access panels onto the side, as they would be erased during sanding:




The roof was sanded smooth with 220 grit paper.  I then cleared out the holes for the detail parts with a #80 drill bit, and I redrew locating marks for the two access panels:




Another view of the roof after sanding.  It is hard to tell if I have removed all of the print lines, so a primer coat may be in order at this stage:




John provided me with a little tool for clearing out the slots for the drip rails at each end of the roof.  These will be filled with strips of styrene to represent the drip rails:




So, now to get the roof primed and then re-sanded if necessary, and I can then add the details.


Tim

[Lemosteam]

Hoping you meant 220 grit.... 

The top width of the strip of styrene at the top seems to be a great bit of luck!  If you can measure between the styrene strips near the front wall of the car to see if the distance is the same as the MT width, that might be helpful as it needs to be greater than the dimension across the roof rails on the outside (in between the nubs).  The vertical rails on the roof need to clear the styrene strips, else the walls will bow.

[BCR 570]

Yes; 220 grit . . . good to know someone is actually reading this!

It looks like the roof will fit nicely but it is a tight fit so not going to push it home until the very end as I might not be able to get it out again.


Tim

[BCR 570]

Trucks & Couplers
My model of the official car PEACE RIVER was displayed along with the rest of the Museum Train at our annual Railway Modellers Meet of BC the previous weekend.




After a week off from the hobby following an intensive weekend, I am back to work on the car.  I installed the Micro-Trains couplers which came with the M-T observation car.  They have a push pin which snaps into place to secure the couplers.

I tried to install Micro-Trains, Athearn and Fox Valley 36" wheels in the Pullman trucks but none would fit; the axle spacing was insufficient.  I drilled out the axle housings as much as I dare and got the outer axles rolling.  The centre axles will not roll and I dont think they are making proper contact with the ground or the rail.  Add to that several pieces broke off the trucks when trying to get the wheel sets in and out.  I may have to resort to using he original Micro-Trains trucks.

Here is a few of the underside of the car with couplers installed, and the Fox Valley wheels:




And a side view sitting on its trucks and wheels:




Test run through multiple turnouts:




And out on the main line:




The car rolls okay and tracks well, but the non-rolling centre axles are a concern.

Does anyone else make Pullman trucks?


Tim

[BCR 570]

Installing Carbody Details
Now comes the enjoyable part - adding details.  I prepared the parts earlier and it is now time to install them.  I believe it is best to leave the front diaphragm off until after painting the carbody, so that will be added later.

I installed the two lower grab irons on the front end of the car, and then proceeded to install the six grab irons going up to the roof.  I used a piece of .010" strip styrene as a height gauge, and I did this work with the car standing on end inside a toilet roll:






I then proceeded to install the side grab irons using the same technique with a strip of .010" styrene as a height gauge:






These parts were installed with medium viscosity CA applied to the ends, and then reinforced from behind after installation with thin CA which can wick into the holes.

This photograph shows the end and side grab irons after installation:




Underbody details are next.


Tim

[Lemosteam]

Trucks & Couplers
My model of the official car PEACE RIVER was displayed along with the rest of the Museum Train at our annual Railway Modellers Meet of BC the previous weekend.




After a week off from the hobby following an intensive weekend, I am back to work on the car.  I installed the Micro-Trains couplers which came with the M-T observation car.  They have a push pin which snaps into place to secure the couplers.

I tried to install Micro-Trains, Athearn and Fox Valley 36" wheels in the Pullman trucks but none would fit; the axle spacing was insufficient.  I drilled out the axle housings as much as I dare and got the outer axles rolling.  The centre axles will not roll and I dont think they are making proper contact with the ground or the rail.  Add to that several pieces broke off the trucks when trying to get the wheel sets in and out.  I may have to resort to using he original Micro-Trains trucks.

Here is a few of the underside of the car with couplers installed, and the Fox Valley wheels:




And a side view sitting on its trucks and wheels:




Test run through multiple turnouts:




And out on the main line:




The car rolls okay and tracks well, but the non-rolling centre axles are a concern.

Does anyone else make Pullman trucks?


Tim

No, no one else makes Pullman 2-4-2 trucks. What length wheel sets did you use? I think these trucks are designed  for 0.540” x 36” wheelsets.

My instructions state to use 0.5mm to 0.7mm sherical engraving bits on each pocket till the wheel spins freely. My original Shapeways trucks roll perfectly.

[BCR 570]

Hi John

I tried three different wheel sets, all .540" axle length:

I tried to install Micro-Trains, Athearn and Fox Valley 36" wheels in the Pullman trucks but none would fit

I dont have any instructions for the trucks, or the bits you mention.  I did drill out the axle hubs as far as I dare and that got the outer axles rolling to some degree but the centre axles are not rolling, and appear to be sitting marginally higher than the outer ones.

As the trucks are quite brittle and parts have now broken off, I will likely have to replace them with something else.

Tim

[Lemosteam]

Hi John

I tried three different wheel sets, all .540" axle length:

I dont have any instructions for the trucks, or the bits you mention.  I did drill out the axle hubs as far as I dare and that got the outer axles rolling to some degree but the centre axles are not rolling, and appear to be sitting marginally higher than the outer ones.

As the trucks are quite brittle and parts have now broken off, I will likely have to replace them with something else.

Tim

Tim, a drill bit would never enter the original pocket at the correct angle to deepen them properly.

I recently had excellent success printing my PRR trucks.  I can test print these and test them with the axles I have.  Upon success, I can send replacements if you are willing to pay for shipping.

Also, attached are the original underbody system instructions:

[nickelplate759]

My Shapeways prints (from @Lemosteam ) of the Pullman 2-4-2 trucks worked fine, but I could use a couple more pairs if the new printing process pans out.