Would it be a good or bad idea to use Neolube on this?

[Maletrain]

I just took apart a club owned Atlas GP15-1 that was having major pickup issues.  I found it slathered in an oily black lubricant that had picked up a lot of fine fibers in the truck bearings.  I cleaned it and now it runs well, with nice low speed creep.

But, this loco is one of the Atlas  "Trainmain Line" that has its pickup strips on the truck contacting the frame, directly, instead of contacting brass parts.  See https://www.spookshow.net/loco/atlasgp15.html .

So, I am wondering if the black stuff I cleaned out along with the fuzz was some sort of conductive lubricant.  And whether something should be used to replace it.

Neolube is a dry graphite material that is painted on wet and allowed to dry.  It is conductive, and it is a lubricant.  Modelers tend to use it for things like darkening steam loco rods.  See https://huronindustries.com/datasheet/neolube-no-1-1-tds-technical-datasheet/

Has anybody here used it for electrical pickup surfaces?

[davefoxx]

If it were mine. I’d prefer it dry and clean in there.  There’s no lubricant between the truck and brass contact strips on other models, so I’d wager that the GP15-1’s pickup contacts come the same way from the factory.

DFF

[peteski]

I would recommend polishiing the heck out of the contact areas on the frames and the tips of the truck sideframe contacts which come in contact with the frames.  Polishing removes oxidation and makes the contact areas mirror smooth, resulting in good electrical conductivity.



Here is an example (Bachmann 44-tonner).  The white metal contact areas are polished mirror smooth.



In that particular example, fingernail polishing stick (using all 4 grits) did an excellent job. I did use wet sanding method. Depending on where the contact areas are on your locomotive, this type of stick might not work as well.



To get a mirror-smooth surface I finished the job with Dremel (at slow speed) and a cloth polishing wheel and a polishing compound. The polishing compound seems to leave some sort of protecting coating on the metal as the metal surface remains in a polished state for a long time.  I suppose that Neolube (basically powdered graphite once the alcohol carrier evaporates) wouldn't hurt, but with the polish I use it isn't needed.

[mmagliaro]

I generally don't suggest relying on Neolube's conductive properties.  If you ever have a momentary contact loss where the current has to actually flow through that microscopic layer of Neolube, it will flash and burn off in an instant (yes, I've actually seen it do this).  I'm with Peteski on this one.  Make all the contact surfaces squeaky clean and shiny smooth and don't go with any added fluids.

[$2 Bill]

⚠ Caution ⚠
While graphite is a lube, it doesn't play well with or even "hate" many plastics, aluminum, brass/bronze and some other materials. Graphite, other chemicals in whatever a "graphite" product or both causes problems here. Similar issue is why many have problems using "Gun slick" graphite lube on anything not just guns with aluminum or plastic parts.

Related:
PTFE also known as Teflon can have similar problems because of binders solvents and other chemicals in the formulas even when Teflon is Inert to most things. Example: Many "Dry" Teflon products have warnings to Not use them on Plastic because have strong solvents etc. before it dries.

Most Oil based and many "synthetics" lubes, brake cleaner, carb cleaner and more attach many plastics too.

If need to protect or clean electric parts, use CRC or other Electrical cleaner or cleaner/lube that is also safe for plastic. Will tell you on the label. You could get High $ Deoxit etc but CRC has been around for decades and works at much less money.

Even when you clean/lube 2 metal parts, if those contact plastic parts later then the oil/grease often wick or leak on the plastic then attack them cause many problems depending on exact solvent, lube and plastic types. may make the plastic soft or very brittle or even liquefied over time.

Warning: Many Brass/Bronze bearings are Sintered or other Press Metal to carry oil in them. Big problem is when you "clean" these or just oil them with whatever oil on hand may seem to work but can make them to bind or "seize" even worse. "Cleaning" often just thins out old oil then solvent dries and old oil gets sticky etc. New oil or grease can to the same because their not the same oil and react badly. Example: Many have heard the noise of bad fans for a bathroom to a PC then many try to clean/lube the brass bearing(s) that only works for a short term.

[Maletrain]

At this point in time, the loco has been cleaned with WD-40 Contact Cleaner and reassembled dry.

I did not try to polish the contact areas on the frame because this model does not seem to have any springiness in the electrical connection of the trucks to the frame, so I am worried about changing the clearances between the frame and the truck brass contact "ears".  Those ears are bent 90 degrees to form horizontal contact surfaces.  I think the physical contact is maintained only by the weight of the loco frame on the rigid contacts, so I am not sure how rocking on the track is accommodated.

It does run smoothly right now on my test track.  The club's track will be a more severe test. 

[peteski]

Polishing does not remove any appreciable amount of metal and the truck/chassis suspension is loose enough for the contact not to be problematic. But if just cleaning worked, so be it.  Back before I started polishing contact areas in older locos (Kato/Atlas RS-3 and RS-11) which had diecast truck gear cases, I used to burnish the white metal items with a hard metal tool. That also improved conductivity.

[Maletrain]

I have polished a lot of things, from the lips of the plastic wine glasses on my sailboat to stainless steel fittings, using various fine grits of "sanding" paper to the various grades of Novus polishes.  I need a flat (or uniformly curved), unmarred surface to start with.  To get that on the contact areas of the frame of this particular loco would require starting with a file.  I am leery of filing these particular surfaces individually by hand because I would probably take off material in different amount from the 4 surfaces and maybe change their angles a tad.  If I could mount the frame on an X-Y table and use a milling strategy to make sure that all 4 surfaces stayed flat and in-plane as I smoothed them, I might try polishing them to a mirror finish.

But, it is working fine, now, even on the club's trackage.  And the original manufacturer did not polish those surfaces at all.  So, I am going to just go with "good enough" for fear of producing an "aw s__t" while going for "perfection".

If these contacts has some sort of springiness to them, I would not hesitate to polish them.  My experience with sailboats has been that things polished are much better at resisting corrosion, especially pitting.  I think the polishing doesn't just make the surface smooth, I think it helps close the tiny pores in the material where chemical corrosion starts.

[$2 Bill]

I think the polishing doesn't just make the surface smooth, I think it helps close the tiny pores in the material where chemical corrosion starts.

Depending on material this is very likely. Wax etc can seal a part but can fail if not done often.

Electric cleaner/lube was often sold as "Tuner" cleaner/lube when TV etc still use mechanical parts often with plastic pieces for tuning, volume etc. The lube was and now is for things will move with light pressure and electric loads. In old Tuners and more the lube prevents corrosion during X being Off for weeks or more but film is very thin so make good contact.

In use and just move the parts "wiped" away minor crap. In Fact many contacts are made to self wipe them to clean them including many relays & Wico Arcade Push Button switches. You push the button make both leaves to bend to wipe/scrub the tips while sending the signal. Even now old Wico buttons still are better then any buttons with micro switches for same job.

But used this lube and many other lubes on motor and more wrong way and lube burned and maybe destroy same. IOW don't use that or any other lube on Motor's armatures because of higher speed and power but on wipers on wheels may help because low speed and power @ those points.

Many Oil/Grease can go "Bad" over time not just Organics that go Rancid.
OE WD40 isn't lube no mater what claim and go "stiff" when the solvents and light oils dry. Same are many other Penetrating oils.
But Even Ballistol, Rem Oil, "CLP" oils famous use in the gun world can often does go "Bad" in various ways if ignored for Months or Years.

OE and Aftermarket "Model Train" lubes can same issues.

Very Few lubes won't go bad... 2 are Silicone Oil & Permatex Green Label Brake grease. Very thin film of either can save many things and safe for plastic/rubber. Silicone Grease (AKA dielectric grease) has Silicone Oil + whatever solid and may not work the same more so as heat or time makes oil to separate.

That's ignoring many Lubes with Attract then move dirt etc that "eat" the parts. Most other "Car" and other Grease/Oil including Silicone lubes absorbs the dirt and like Cats, if it Fits, it Sits to grind other things. Permatex Brake grease get dirt on it but stays there even in High Heat places.

But Some areas/things like Model RR wheel wipers or real cars need to run or expect problems no matter how you lube, clean or polish it.

[mu26aeh]

On newer versions of the GP15, Atlas has changed the truck pickups to include a sprung contact to help keep pressure on the chassis going across unlevel track.