After successfully cleaning out 3/4 vat of resin from mu machine, in an oopsie moment, this machine is extremely simple.
Main housing is plastic as is the base and top. The material does not like 99% IPA for very long so a weaker IPA was used to clean the top an bottom of the housing.
All of the electronics inside are solid state and mounted to the sides of the cabinet not the bottom (unfortunately mine tilled over so the resin did get on them). Most connections are plugs instead of the flexible strap connections. They all came clean and must be disconnected if you have to disassemble the entire machine, which I had to do.
The motor is attached to the top plate and has a sealed bearing and shaft seal for the lift worm screw.
The glass plate is permanently mounted into the top plate and cannot leak into the cabinet around its edges. No screen protector is required.
The rail is extruded aluminum with steel rails with a plastic cap that aligns the upper bearing to the worm screw shaft and keeps the worm perpendicular to the glass.
The light source and DLP array is mounted in a carrier housing that is attached to the top plate from above to reduce variation. I recommend not removing the light source or the array from the carrier to prevent refocusing the light. The light controller is attached to the light source housing and is removeable due to the connectors, so I was able to wipe that clean.
The vat is indeed plastic with threaded brass inserts for the fep mounting. The 99% IPA DOES NOT attack the vat like it did the main housings. I have had zero issues with the plastic vat despite what some of the videos say, in fact I bought two extra for quick swaps if needed, although aluminum versions are available I have heard.
I an fairly certain that the AC and Elegoo are the same machine being multi-branded.
Happy to say that I was proud to be able to disassemble, clean, and reassemble the D2 without issue. I did make one mistake and it caused print fails, and that was I forgot to fully tighten the motor assembly to the top housing and the worm shaft was moving around. Since discovering that and torquing them properly, I have has no failures at all.
I say all this just to note that I now have full confidence in the entire machine, and that its design is not longer a bag of magic which boosted my confidence in its quality immensely and that Wiha ball style nut driver set I got, was flawless for this teardown.
