Kato “Seven Stars In Kyushu” Set

[Dwight in Toronto]

Ahhh, I see.  Interesting.  I’m familiar with the EM13, and how it easily enables DCC operation of Kato’s Japanese models that are designed for it (I used one for a while in my SP Daylight GS4, but eventually upgraded to sound and independent head- and tail-lights with a 58731j. 

As you’ve seen here, the Seven Stars loco follows the convention of Kato’s North American models (zamac frame with motor/mechanism and circuit board all under a loco shell).  And no provision was made for DCC (let alone an EM13).  Even though the train set was clearly targeted at the Japanese market, the design approach seems to be quite different than what you guys have described for their other excursion trains, Shinkansen models, etc.  Perhaps the “home crowd” only care that their models run, and are indifferent about how & why they work.

[MK]

An additional comment as I realize that not all Kato Japan sets are DCC (EM13) compatible.  There area few, of which you discovered that yours is, that are not DCC friendly.  I avoid those when I go to the hobby stores in Japan as I don't want all the additional work.

Kato Japan's catalog will indicate which are DCC'able.  I was going to get a 787 Around Kyushu, similar to your Seven Stars, but I found out it was not DCC'able with an EM13 so I didn't get it.

I took a look at your picture again about the lightboard in the loco.  I wonder if any of the Digitrax (or other companies' equivalent) Kato-form decoders will fit.  I'm going to have to re-read this thread as even if I can hardware a DZ126 or similar decoder (not into sound) in the loco I might do it and get a 787 set in June.  Only because I rode in it heading to Fukuoaka in October.   

[peteski]

MK and Dwight, I'm confused. Which specific board are you discussing?  For the Seven Stars the loco takes any brand decoder which has a same outline as the ESU "Wide Body" Kato decoder (but would need to be thin enough to clear the shell). The original "wide body" Kato PC board is used by Kato in a lot of Japanese and American prototype models (and they do not really seem to consider the decoder version's overall thickness since they really don't do DCC).  In some models, even fairly thin decoderized versions will not clear the shell.  I think the Digital (non-sound of course) DN163 versions of that outline decoder are the thinnest.

[MK]

Peteski, I was thinking something similar to Digitrax DN163K0b or the like would work based on Dwight's pictures.  There may be some minor wire soldering as it seems the motor contacts are a "press fit" on the underside of the original light board instead of the wrap-on-the-outside motor tabs typical of a wide decoder install.

Yes, I think all Kato locos/sets are DCC friendly in a sense the motor is isolated from the frame but I'm talking about whether it's EM13 compatible which makes a DCC conversion 15 mins without shell removal.   I'm lazy.   

[peteski]

I took a quick look at that video and had some chuckles at the guys highly technical descriptions of various items. The constant droning of the background music was getting on  my nerves. 

I especially has a laugh at the confusion he had with the light diffusers Kato includes in their special cars. Those are specially designed for optimum light distribution in some train sets.  Again, Kato engineering comes through.

As for having to bend the pickup strips I really think it that's not needed, probably caused by improper installation. Kato designs things to work right out-of-the-box. No modifications should be needed. I suspect they are somehow not getting installed correctly.  I would have to try experimenting myself to see what causes the intermittent pickup problem.

[Dwight in Toronto]

I had posted a video early in this thread where someone had shell clearance success with a TCS drop-in widebody decoder, but it wasn’t a sound upgrade. 

Peter - at this point, I’ve put my “self-cobbled” illumination, using the ESU LED boards, in four of the Seven Stars coaches.  In every case, I first tried inserting the brass strips without ‘the fold’, and every time I was met with the herky-jerky, intermittent, blinkity-blinking result where I had to lightly press down on the coach to get the lights on.  And in every case, folding over the strip end to double the thickness did the trick. 

Now,granted, my brass strips are diy’ed, and are in all likelihood not the same gauge thickness as the Kato factory strips.  But, the results are what they are. 

[Dwight in Toronto]

I finished adding illumination and a few passengers, a porter, and two sushi chefs to the last coach.  As promised, here’s an amateurish, hastily-shot two minute video demonstrating the main sounds and lighting effects:

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 iPad auto-focusing (or should I say outa-focusing) is annoying, but whatchagonna do.

I still have a few loose ends to tie up.  My vendor only had 5 of those ESU light boards, so I need two more for coaches 1 & 2.  Also, I think I’ll try an orange or yellow Sharpie on those table lamps in the first two cars, just to subdue them a little bit. 

If I think that those upcoming changes are of interest, I’ll update the thread with another post to show how things turned out.  Otherwise, I guess this is it … another project ‘in the bag’.  A big thank you to everyone who followed along, and especially to those who contributed thoughts, comments, direction and suggestions.  Such a great group here at TRW!

[MK]

Hot Damn!  Now I want to get that set when I'm in Japan in June and follow your instructions to do a conversion like you did!   

Excellent job Dwight!!!!

[Dwight in Toronto]

Not much of an update, but I went ahead and subdued the brightness of the “table lamps” in one of the Seven Stars coaches. 

In essence, I fabricated a bunch of little lamp shades, of sorts.  I snipped off a 1/8” long sleeve from the smallest heat shrink tubing that I have, coloured/stained it with an orange Sharpie, then slipped each sleeve over the LED light pipe tips that protrude through the coach tables.   

This dimmed the brightness appreciably, and yields a more pleasing orange tone vs the glaring white/yellow of the factory setup:




I think the effect will be even nicer once I equip these remaining two coaches with the same overhead lighting as was used in all the other cars.

[MK]

Dwight, you need this.   

https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10583070

[Dwight in Toronto]

LMAO … oh man, that is CRAZY!  The description is pretty funny too.

I wouldn’t know what is supposed to go where with that kit.  And truth be told, it would be darn near impossible to see all those interior finishes through the windows.  It’s hard enough trying to spot the passengers and train staff that I’ve placed throughout the coaches. 

But hey, thanks for bringing this to my attention - I never would have found it on my own, and it’s great to know that this upgrade actually exists. 

[MK]

I'm waiting for this to come back in stock for my Mizukaze set.  This page has a better picture of the bits and pieces actually installed in a car (4th picture).  N-Goya makes a ton of these for various Kato and Tomix famous trains.

https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10671443

[peteski]

Not much of an update, but I went ahead and subdued the brightness of the “table lamps” in one of the Seven Stars coaches. 

In essence, I fabricated a bunch of little lamp shades, of sorts.  I snipped off a 1/8” long sleeve from the smallest heat shrink tubing that I have, coloured/stained it with an orange Sharpie, then slipped each sleeve over the LED light pipe tips that protrude through the coach tables.   

Pretty clever low-tech solution. Replacing the resistors (or adding another series-connected resistor) could also be used to fully control the LED brightness.

[Dwight in Toronto]

Thanks Peter. 

The goal was to not only reduce brightness, but also tweak the colour tone away from the white/yellow.  I was a bit reluctant to use permanent marker on the light pipes directly, just in case I regretted the result.  This way, if I wasn’t happy, the “lampshades” could simply be slipped off, and I’d be back to original condition.   

I’m debating trying, say, green-tinged lampshades instead, but I’ll probably leave well enough alone.

[MK]

Hey @Dwight in Toronto, now that my trip is coming up soon next month, I'm starting to look more carefully at my shopping list.   

Kato is re-releasing this set in June BUT there's an additional line in the description that specifically say DCC friendly (whereas the old description did not).  The instruction pamphlet is not out yet so I don't know if they mean their traditional EM13/FL12N combo or something else like a typical Digitrax wide body decoder like a DN167K0A.

Since I will still be in Tokyo at the end of June I should be able to find a set somewhere if it hasn't been all scoffed up by reservations.  Price is around $200USD from what I'm seeing on websites.  Not Plaza or Hobby Search but actual Japanese hobby stores.

Getting excited...