Motor tab pulled off decoder. Anywhere else to attach it?

[dangerboy81]

 
Looking through a couple of decoders I burnt, thinking about sending them back, I saw this one. Couldn't remember why it was in the pile , it reads OK. Oh ya, I pulled the mounting tab for the motor off. I'm probably grasping at straws, but can I scrape some of the blue material off to catch enough of the motor tab to get some solder on? I may just try it anyways, but I'm wondering if anyone who knows more about this than me thinks it's even possible? Even so, I may just keep it to make a sound car or something.

[milw156]

If it's within Warranty, I would just send it back and not Mickey Mouse with it. They are really good about replacing oopsies IF you have copy of receipt that is within warranty period.

[peteski]

Or even out-of-warranty, they will fix (or replace) for nominal fee which is less than a price of a new decoder.

While I don't have that decoder handy I believe that the trace connecting that motor pad to the H-Bridge transistors is buried inside the PC board (one of the internal traces in this multilayer board.  You probably see several very tiny metallic dots somewhere in the area of the missing pads.  Those are vias (plated holes which connected the pad to the internal trace).  Unlikely you can get a good solder connection to those.

These decoders are delicate miniature computers.  Precision temperature-controlled soldering irons are recommended, with the temperature set around 700 deg. F or less and using small tips.  The wire in your photos also seem a bit heavier gauge than standard 32AWG wires used wiring decoders.

[dangerboy81]

Or even out-of-warranty, they will fix (or replace) for nominal fee which is less than a price of a new decoder.

While I don't have that decoder handy I believe that the trace connecting that motor pad to the H-Bridge transistors is buried inside the PC board (one of the internal traces in this multilayer board.  You probably see several very tiny metallic dots somewhere in the area of the missing pads.  Those are vias (plated holes which connected the pad to the internal trace).  Unlikely you can get a good solder connection to those.

These decoders are delicate miniature computers.  Precision temperature-controlled soldering irons are recommended, with the temperature set around 700 deg. F or less and using small tips.  The wire in your photos also seem a bit heavier gauge than standard 32AWG wires used wiring decoders.

Thanks, I was hoping you would chime in. You seem to know more about these decoders than most. I assumed the traces were buried, otherwise I think I would see an edge. The heavy wires are just for testing, I did have this decoder working in a locomotive, there was a small spot I could get a bead of solder on. I took it out because the mechanism was noisy, I decided I would try to quiet it down. When I did that, I must have torn off what little was left of the solder pad.
I don't have the receipt, or box, or even remember when I bought it. I have 3 to go back, I save them up, trying to decide if I want to send them back, the shipping is kinda high. I have been at this for a few years, and have burnt the odd decoder, but with lots of successes! I'm slowly converting my fleet to sound. I sent one back a few years ago in a similar situation, and ESU was good with me. I will send an Email, see what they say.

[peteski]

I'm surprised that (assuming you live in USA) that shipping cost would be very high.  Small USPS Flat Rate Priority Mail box (which would hold more than a dozen decoders) should be about 11 bucks.  In today's world it is quite reasonable. If you use your own box it is cheaper.

But yes, either calling or emailing ESU office is a good idea before sending any decoders for repairs (in or out of warranty).

As for using heavier wires for testing, I would not do that either, but that's just me. I'm a bit anal that way.