Installing ESM #990801 body-mount coupler pocket for Atlas 11k gallon tank car

[nickelplate759]

Well, the immediate solution is to salvage trucks from the Atlas PS-1 and make them prototypically correct in the process.

I can do that - but a question:
the BLMA/Atlas low-bolster solid-bearing trucks are sold as "70-ton", and have a longer wheelbase than the Barber S2A or the generic "bettendorf" trucks you see on many cars from Atlas, Micro-Trains, Intermounten, et al. (including the tank cars in question).    Are the 50-ton ASF-A3 visually identical (esp. w.r.t. wheelbase)?   If not, has anyone offered a 50-ton ASF-A3 with low bolster?

[bbussey]

The 50-ton Barber S2A wheelbase is shorter than the 70-ton ASF A-3 wheelbase. Atlas makes a generic Bettendorf 50-ton truck that is available separately, but is old-school with vintage height bolster and coupler pockets.

[bbussey]

Also of note is that the three ex-BLMA trucks and the Barber S2A are the proper scale width. Most N scale trucks including MTL trucks are too wide. The FVM trucks that utilize the BLMA bolster also are scale width, but extremely hard to find at this point. That includes the B&O wagon top caboose and MILW cabooses for certain, and I think also the B&O wagon top boxcar although I don’t remember the truck style utilized. They might be riding on ASF A-3 trucks. The National C-1 trucks on the Atlas ballast cars also are scale width but the bolster height is old-school.

[Mark5]

I heard back from Atlas, they said they would not be offering truck frames separately. 

So the link I posted was bogus ... 

As a long time Atlas customer (1970+), I find this most annoying. 🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄

[nickelplate759]

Yes you need to drill and tap holes for #00-90 screws. Use the coupler pocket adapter as the placement guide.

You also will need to either swap in trucks with the BLMA-style bolster beam (ASF A-3, Barber S2A, etcetera) or lower the bolsters and remove the coupler pockets from the stock trucks. The pockets are designed for the model to be lowered to the proper ride height.

I will add installation instructions to the back of the blister cards for the coupler pockets adapters.

It looks like the 00-90 screw that holds the coupler in the pocket needs to be short - about 3 to 3.5 mm.  Trimming a steel screw this small is not my idea of a good time.  Anyone got a good US source for these?  There are some (apparently overseas) sellers on Amazon, but they seem sketchy.   

[peteski]

It looks like the 00-90 screw that holds the coupler in the pocket needs to be short - about 3 to 3.5 mm.  Trimming a steel screw this small is not my idea of a good time.  Anyone got a good US source for these?  There are some (apparently overseas) sellers on Amazon, but they seem sketchy.

Brass screws are much easier to modify, and that is pretty much what I use. Either HoBits (expensive) or I also got a good stash from Special Shapes Company when they were still their own entity. There should be other online sellers with brass 00-90 screws.

I would thread 1 or 2 nuts onto that screw then trim it with a Dremel and then smooth the end, beveling the thread slightly.  I use a partially worn (smaller diameter) Dremel cut-off wheel at slow speed for this.

[nickelplate759]

Brass screws are much easier to modify, and that is pretty much what I use. Either HoBits (expensive) or I also got a good stash from Special Shapes Company when they were still their own entity. There should be other online sellers with brass 00-90 screws.

I would thread 1 or 2 nuts onto that screw then trim it with a Dremel and then smooth the end, beveling the thread slightly.  I use a partially worn (smaller diameter) Dremel cut-off wheel at slow speed for this.

That nut trick is a good idea!  But how do you hold onto it while trimming?

[peteski]

That nut trick is a good idea!  But how do you hold onto it while trimming?

The nuts are usually larger diameter than the screw head and I usually use the smallest ViceGrip pliers for this. For 00-90 a pin vise with the largest collet might work too.

[Iain]

I wonder if Atlas would do a bulk order of Barber S2 trucks and then we could do a Railwire order.

[Mark5]

I would thread 1 or 2 nuts onto that screw then trim it with a Dremel and then smooth the end, beveling the thread slightly.

Great thinking! Now to find a source for those nuts. 

[bbussey]

Brass machine screws are easy to cut as @peteski mentioned.  But you can source short screws domestically if you have a ton to do.  J.I.Morris has #00-90 screws of assorted lengths.  McMaster-Carr does as well.  Both are good sources and are well-established companies.  They both also have #000-120 screws if you every need anything smaller in diameter.

[nickelplate759]

Brass machine screws are easy to cut as @peteski mentioned.  But you can source short screws domestically if you have a ton to do.  J.I.Morris has #00-90 screws of assorted lengths.  McMaster-Carr does as well.  Both are good sources and are well-established companies.  They both also have #000-120 screws if you every need anything smaller in diameter.

Thanks for the pointers.   I see that McMaster-Carr offers "Torx-Plus" heads in 00-90, pre-blackened even!  That seems way easier than the old slotted head - now I just need to find a teeny Torx-Plus driver!

[nickelplate759]

Ta-Da!



I was able to find some 1/8" long flat-head brass 00-90 screws, which work perfectly in the adapter.  Not cheap, but fortunately I only have three cars to do.

Used BLMA 70-ton solid-bearing trucks 'cause that's what I had.  Hopefully I'll get some 50-ton trucks modified with the right bolster height some day.

Thanks to @bbussey for making these available, and explaining how to use them.