PRR B6sb Kitbash build

[Lemosteam]

Over the weekend I started a project that has been in my wants list for a long time. The liquidation of my rolling stock has been a boon to my imagination and I started visualizing this kitbash.

Starting with a Trix model, I repowered it using a newer open frame 5 poler I had in my stash. There was a large brass bushing on the motor that I was able to grind down to fit the front motor pilot in the frame. I then swapped the worm with a coarse worm I also had in my stash after reaming it to fit the motor shaft, and pushed the flywheel to have clearance to the back wall.



In the image above, you can see that I filled the back end of the chassis with a styrene plate to lift the back of the motor for proper worm clearance to the worm gear.

The rear motor saddle fits onto the pilot on the back of the motor between the flywheel and motor frame. Once I got the motor level, I glued the bracket to the styrene keeping the front motor bushing against the frame. Then I drilled and tapped two 00-90 holes to allow for motor service/disassembly.



Here are the two screws installed into the bracket:



Here is the motor installed in the chassis:



Here is the running chassis @9v:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XofSC7ZefXTCRuqb7

I was gifted from @mmagliaro a Pewter knockoff boiler shell cast by none other than than the father of the Minitrix K4, Ted Brandon. It is heavily modified to add weight up front. As such I had to modify the frame a bit by removing the headlight mount, and by shaving off some material on the back wall. Here is the first test fit, where I realized the boiler was not aligned with the cylinders.



To remedy this, I added a 00-90 nylon screw with some nuts into the frame to serve as a forward locating pin and side to side centering, drilled a locator hole into the boiler casting to fit over the alignment pin.





Here is the result for the cylinder location:



Satisfied with this boiler solution, I test fit the boiler again and began musing the tender and drawbar methods. I had some small Bachmann tenders with electrical pickup at the ready so I took off it’s trucks and mounted them onto the original Minitrix tender.



That’s it for now more next weekend.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Very cool. You gonna jam sound in the tender?

[randgust]

Wow, so you do have 'hot' trucks under the tender.   That was the one thing I looked at and wondered it you'd worked on, because as-is, pickup is everything.  8x8 is what you want in a switcher.  I put it on my old Rapido 0-6-0 (2-6-0) and instant reliability.

I wouldn't depend on any method to get power to the motor from the tender except for hard wiring.   TCS has some super-tiny plugs with flexible wire to do that with instead of relying on those terrible wiper things.
https://www.tcsdcc.com/connectors

I've got a 6-pin in my Trix Decapod with sound in the tender.  The great thing about Trix stuff is solid frames and all-gear drives, no reliance on crankpins.  Coat 'em up with Neolube and they dissapear.

[Lemosteam]

Wow, so you do have 'hot' trucks under the tender.   That was the one thing I looked at and wondered it you'd worked on, because as-is, pickup is everything.  8x8 is what you want in a switcher.  I put it on my old Rapido 0-6-0 (2-6-0) and instant reliability.

I wouldn't depend on any method to get power to the motor from the tender except for hard wiring.   TCS has some super-tiny plugs with flexible wire to do that with instead of relying on those terrible wiper things.
https://www.tcsdcc.com/connectors

I've got a 6-pin in my Trix Decapod with sound in the tender.  The great thing about Trix stuff is solid frames and all-gear drives, no reliance on crankpins.  Coat 'em up with Neolube and they dissapear.

@randgust , you must have missed this:

"I had some small Bachmann tenders with electrical pickup at the ready so I took off it’s trucks and mounted them onto the original Minitrix tender."

[randgust]

I see that but I'm just commenting on the connection.   All the LL, Kato, MicroAce, etc. use those wire feelers to transmit power.   All of them are erratic, go the plug route.

[wm3798]

Neat build.
I'm interested in what the difference between the bespoke pewter boiler and the OEM Trix metal boiler is?
I don't have one in front of me at the moment, but I assume there's a weight advantage at the front, or are there other details?

Another question would be if you are planning to wire in a headlight...?
Lee

[Lemosteam]

Original metal boiler weighs in at 0.95 oz. and the pewter shell weighs in at 1.62 oz.

Yes, I will be adding a KD headlight and bracket and adding an LED.  Not sure if I want to add a decoder/sound or not since my only true layout is DC.  The LIRR IS is DCC but....

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Original metal boiler weighs in at 0.95 oz. and the pewter shell weighs in at 1.62 oz.

Yes, I will be adding a KD headlight and bracket and adding an LED.  Not sure if I want to add a decoder/sound or not since my only true layout is DC.  The LIRR IS is DCC but....

You gotta! Steam without sound feels naked!

[Lemosteam]

[Chris333]

On many occasions over the last few months I almost bought a HO B6sb to build a switching layout. 

[Ed Kapuscinski]

On many occasions over the last few months I almost bought a HO B6sb to build a switching layout. 

Same.

But then I realize any actual switching layout would involve more urban scenery and I run away.

Why, oh why couldn't the Pennsy serve lots of very rural complex industries?

[garethashenden]

Same.

But then I realize any actual switching layout would involve more urban scenery and I run away.

Why, oh why couldn't the Pennsy serve lots of very rural complex industries?

Have you considered a coal mine? Or any other natural resource extraction industry; coal, oil, timber, stone, etc.

[Lemosteam]

Back to the news…

Does anyone recognize this 5 pole motor? I cannot find one at Bachmann, Kato or Atlas. I would love to find more! @mmagliaro ??

Picture might help:

[peteski]

Likely one of the Japanese manufacturers. Looks like a Kato motor they used on some of their small Japanese steam locos.  There is no logo on the plastic end?  I don't recall if these had a logo or not.  I guess it might also be a Tomix or maybe MicroAce motor.

[rodsup9000]

  I'm sure it's a Kato motor.
I had one and I'm thinking it came from a early electric loco.
I'll see if I can find it.