Do you change the filament color you're using based on the final color?

[AndyG71]

So I just started playing around with 3D printing, and right now just have black and white PLA.

I think I know the answer, but wondering if I need to get a few more colors. I'm doing a Death Valley Railroad layout - very very desert oriented (obviously!) and being a borax mine in the 1900-1930's, a lot of natural wood as well as cast iron pieces.

How many different colors do you use, and is it easiest to print closest to the color of your final product?

Thank you!
Andy

[Sumner]

I use gray for everything. Most things I'm going to paint and sometimes I'll use a gray primer and if it does not cover something then the gray filament works. I can't see anything that I actually want to use a Pure filament color as the final color on as far as buildings or other structures.

Sumner

[rodsup9000]

 For any model work that will be painted, I use Polymaker CosPLA.  It sands easy and takes paint better than regular PLA.
You can get in from Amazon of Polymaker.

[cgw]

Grey is all you need.   Print with the smallest nozzle.  Prime the part with a high solids surface primer for auto body refinishing (color choices are limited typically grey, rust red, or black).   Sand, reapply primer and sand again with 320 grit for a final buff .   That usually will get me a smooth surface.      I will use a 0.25 nozzle for detail parts.  Functional parts are typically printed with 0.40 nozzle,    The printed resin used is the cheapest that I can buy at the local  pusher. (inland brand at micro center) usually generic PLA or PetG.     higher fidelity prints I will use a resin printer.   grey siraya tech  fast build resin.  Process is to clean the printed part in an ultra sonic bath with alcohol . Wash part under warm water, remove supports followed up with a UV cure for 30 minutes and then a final sand before prime.  Primer for these type of parts is Tamiya or a Mr Surfacer primer.  color choices are grey, white or an off pink color.   Color choice is based on the color base coat that is applied.

[rodsup9000]

   Prime the part with a high solids surface primer for auto body refinishing (color choices are limited typically grey, rust red, or black).  Sand, reapply primer and sand again with 320 grit for a final buff

With Polymaker, you don't have all those steps. It's ready to sand when print is done.

[AndyG71]

For any model work that will be painted, I use Polymaker CosPLA.  It sands easy and takes paint better than regular PLA.
You can get in from Amazon of Polymaker.

Thank you! I'm gonna check that out.

[AndyG71]

Grey is all you need.   Print with the smallest nozzle.  Prime the part with a high solids surface primer for auto body refinishing (color choices are limited typically grey, rust red, or black).   Sand, reapply primer and sand again with 320 grit for a final buff .   That usually will get me a smooth surface.      I will use a 0.25 nozzle for detail parts.  Functional parts are typically printed with 0.40 nozzle,    The printed resin used is the cheapest that I can buy at the local  pusher. (inland brand at micro center) usually generic PLA or PetG.     higher fidelity prints I will use a resin printer.   grey siraya tech  fast build resin.  Process is to clean the printed part in an ultra sonic bath with alcohol . Wash part under warm water, remove supports followed up with a UV cure for 30 minutes and then a final sand before prime.  Primer for these type of parts is Tamiya or a Mr Surfacer primer.  color choices are grey, white or an off pink color.   Color choice is based on the color base coat that is applied.

Thank you for the detailed reply! Best methods for painting PLA was going to be my next inquiry!