Kitbash ideas... PRR Huntingdon depot

[Dave V]

For my T-TRAK project, I'm planning on a pair of modules based on Huntingdon, PA on the PRR Middle Division.

Looking for ideas for kitbash fodder.

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[Ed Kapuscinski]

Walthers or DPM modular pilasters. Scratch build some masters for the "inserts" and then cast them in resin.

Or, maybe now's the time to learn 3D?

Alternately... a narrow module with a photo? lol

[Chris333]

Got drawing?

[Dave V]

Got drawing?

No I don’t, sorry.

[Dave V]

I should caveat that it's a very large structure and I'd prefer to selectively compress it for the module.

[learmoia]

Feed it into Gemini and see what it comes up with... 

[Dave V]

Feed it into Gemini and see what it comes up with... 

Didn't do well at all.

[Point353]

Walthers or DPM modular pilasters. Scratch build some masters for the "inserts" and then cast them in resin.

https://modelrailroadforums.com/forum/index.php?media/prr-station-in-huntingdon-pa.1215/

[Dave V]

https://modelrailroadforums.com/forum/index.php?media/prr-station-in-huntingdon-pa.1215/

Yup, I'm aware of that. Sadly, that's HO scale and the DPM modular system is inexplicably different between HO and N scales. The N scale system--for some duma$$ reason--has three windows per panel instead of two.

[chuck geiger]

https://tile.loc.gov/storage-services/master/pnp/habshaer/pa/pa2700/pa2735/data/pa2735data.pdf?utm_source=chatgpt.com

[davefoxx]

Dr. V.,

You’re not going to like it, but I’d get some N Scale Architect styrene brick sheet, layer the styrene to get the three-dimensional masonry effect, and use commercially available N scale windows and doors.  That’s how I scratchbuilt the Aberdeen, North Carolina, Seaboard Air Line station in N scale and then again in HO scale.

Told you that you wouldn’t like it!

DFF

[randgust]

Interesting that the street side doesn't have 100% arched windows.

I'd just shorten it, not compress it much, to see if you have what you want.

And there are two styles of Tichy arched windows in N.   You'll want to find out if those would work 'close enough' for you.  2506 and 2507, probably the 2506....  https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/n_framed-windows/p/2506/Default.aspx
There may be others, but my experience in doing 'real building' scratchbuilding says you start with seeing if you can get the doors and windows.

So if you can find the windows, building it up off of layered brick suddenly is a whole lot more viable.   I used to use a lot of H&R when that was available, that layered up quite well and I still have a stash of it.  You'd be surprised how well the 'small' HO brick stuff works in N.  Midwest has stuff that might work now.  Don't get too hung up over brick size, it's color and weathering that sells it.

One thing you might want to try is simply mocking up the building in sheet cardboard/strathmore to get the 'feel' for it in condensed form.  Draw it scale size, etc.   If it works right, glue up some stripwood reinforcements in the back, and you can even use that to laminate on layers of brick stock.  I use ACC so it doesn't warp, cut the windows out on the strathmore first and then laminate and cut the windows again from the back.   Note that 'most' brick buildings have the windows set in from the BACK, not stuck on the front surface, so it's important to layer up enough to get some depth in the walls, you can even put a layer of stripwood around the back of the windows to pull it off.

My Flagstaff Monte Vista Hotel:  http://www.randgust.com/MV08.jpg
All of downtown Flagstaff was done this way:  http://www.randgust.com/MV15.jpg


I just had to scratchbuild up five brick buildings from photos only of the remaining tannery buildings in West Hickory, PA.   Most difficult part was the reinforcement 'pilasters' and getting the depth right in those.   

I know you'll get six experts that can draw and print the stuff, I'm old school, but I've done a whole lot of buildings from photos.   And Lee Weldon's Cumberland depot is one of the best efforts I've ever seen.  Huntingdon is a landmark that is instantly recognizable to anyone that's familiar with PRR, I have my own photos of it.

One 'instant stunt' to try is to go into Google Earth and simply measure the building footprint with the ruler tools from the overhead view.  Then you can probably go into streetview and get some front/side views.   Put those into photoshop and de-keystone them.   Take the .JPG and resize it on paper (Word works fine) until you get the dimensions 'pretty close' to the overhead size.    You can take that print and cut it up and play with it on cardstock.   It lets you proportion and resize things easily until it looks right.   Then you can measure right off of it.   Who needs drawings?

PS, just checked Google Earth.   Roof outline is 142 long 30 wide.  Good 3' roof overhangs or more.  Back and east end easy streetview shots.

[Dave V]

Dr. V.,

You’re not going to like it, but I’d get some N Scale Architect styrene brick sheet, layer the styrene to get the three-dimensional masonry effect, and use commercially available N scale windows and doors.  That’s how I scratchbuilt the Aberdeen, North Carolina, Seaboard Air Line station in N scale and then again in HO scale.

Told you that you wouldn’t like it!

DFF

Nah, I don't hate this idea. Since building the HOn3 RGS and the N scale Colorado Midland v2.0, I'm not the least bit shy about scratchbuilding. I did want to see if there's an easier route first, but I suspect I'll end up scratchbuilding something significantly compressed to fit the module.

[dougnelson]

The best way to scratchbuild Huntingdon station would be with a laser cutter.  Think of creating layers - a layer for the raised pillars, layer for the brick fields, several layers for windows, etc.  Details such as roof overhang brackets can also be made with the laser cutter.  Brick texture can be added with printed brick sheets (https://www.modelbrickyard.com/en/generate).  The brick generator can be configured for several colors, bonds, etc.  The resulting files can be further altered in photoshop to simulate the painted brick colors.  I typically laminate the brick paper to the basswood sheets prior to cutting with laser cutter.  Vector drawings will be needed for each layer, but these should be easy with a few basic measurements.  Laser cutters are not cheap, but they are usually available at local maker spaces or libraries.

similar technique for New London station:

[Dave V]

...and if I don't have a laser cutter? Is that something a lot of people have?