Weekend Update 12/14/25

[CR4100]

What printer?

Mars 3 Pro with Anycubic ABS like Pro 2 resin.

[bbussey]

I printed the N scale figurines I created last week with AI. The two female travelers in the back row were created with text commands. The three Star Trek TOS figures were created by submitting hi-rez photos. The Kirk and Spock photos came from “City on the Edge of Forever” while the Janice Rand photo came from “Miri”. I had to add a tricorder to the Rand figurine, which I created by submitting a photo of the prop and adding a new strap in Blender. Every figure except Rand printed on the first attempt. I printed all the figurines both straight-up and at an 11 degree angle. Initially I used MeshyAI.  It worked for most of the figures, but it kept rendering gaps in Rand’s beehive hair-do that I couldn’t remove fully in Blender. So then I tried the Hitem3d engine and it worked much better. I also printed Rand upside down at the 11 degree angle to lessen the amount of build support contacts on small details such as her fingertips, hem line, tricorder and tricorder strap. In hindsight I should have done that with the other figurines as well, and will do so moving forward.

[davefoxx]

I added a 21-pin LokSound V5.0 decoder to a “stealth” BLI HO scale model of ACWR F9A No. 271 (formerly NS Executive F-Unit No. 4271).  I loaded a GP38 sound file, since that’s what NS rebuilt this old cab unit into.  However, it took me several days to get the ditch lights working correctly.  At first, I only had a flashing right ditch light and no left ditch light, no matter what I did in the LokProgrammer, it seemed.  But, today, I learned that the AUX functions for the ESU PowerPack can cause issues.  Since this BLI locomotive does not have a PowerPack, I disabled those AUX functions and any that had no active lighting.  Doing that brought the left ditch light to life, which was fantastic, realizing that the LED was not burned out.  At this point, the only remaining issue was how to stop the ditch lights from flashing at all times, since I was able to get that left ditch light to flash alternately from the right ditch light with some tweaking to the function output.

Thankfully, this evening, I discovered that I somehow had the Grade Crossing Logic active in the Function Mapping table under F2 (horn) and F5 (where I remap the ditch lights).  Once I removed the duplicate Grade Crossing Logic from F5, I suddenly had perfectly functioning ditch lights that flash alternately ONLY when the horn is blown.  Nice.



DFF

[mu26aeh]

Got some time in the basement finally and spent day on decals.  A CSX road slug and a GATX GP38-2.  I accidentally got a -2 without dynamic brakes so had to figure something to do with it.  Both were done using Fusion Scale Graphics decals, although both sets aren't quite right.  I used Microscale numbers for the CSX unit, FS were to big, and the GMTX is also too big, in both cases they seem to be in BOLD compared to regular size font

[Lemosteam]

I posted a drawing made by Google Gemini in over in this thread. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=60404.msg832485#msg832485 I took the drawing and  created a 3D model. Lucky for me, the car has a deep center sill. I'll see how much weight I can hide in there, with metal wheels it weighs 7.1 grams!

Space to add weight.

Really nice print.  May I suggest a piece of solid tungsten welding rod.  It will also help prevent any warpage as the model fully cures over time.

A few diameters to choose from:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013KZVFRS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

[Jesse6669]

I posted a drawing made by Google Gemini in over in this thread. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=60404.msg832485#msg832485 I took the drawing and  created a 3D model. Lucky for me, the car has a deep center sill. I'll see how much weight I can hide in there, with metal wheels it weighs 7.1 grams!

Side view. Note how small the car is compared to the Atlas 40' gondola next to it.

Space to add weight.

That turned out really well!  Try tungsten putty crammed into the center sill.  Or pure tungsten welding rod(s) which might be a bit neater as Lemostream suggests.

[GaryHinshaw]

Cool car and print!  For reference, a 4" length of 1/8" tungsten rod would weigh about 16 grams (20 grams for 1/8" square stock).  You probably want a total car weight (actually mass) of about 25-30 grams, so an additional 20 grams would do nicely.

[Jesse6669]

I got all the Midland Sub ballast down, and painted the ex-PRR/I&O yard lead from GK Tower with primer.  I also did a revised print of the Wesley Ave overpass.


I created the (test) backdrop above for the Midland Sub area in keeping with what seems to be a theme this week--I used Gemini AI to convert Google aerial photos to street level "nearly" 2D.  I'll get color print made.

[wm3798]

Improved battery access on the Newport and Rock Falls.

Originally the entire backdrop, including some pretty delicate scenery and structure details, had to be removed to access the battery packs and the tunnel at the rear.  After having to take it all apart several times at N Scale Weekend, I decided it was time for a bit of corrective surgery.

First, I cut the battery pack and a portion of the rear fascia free from the backdrop.  Then, using a couple small hinges I found down in my hardware dungeon, created a pivoting panel that allows access without ever removing the skyboard ever again.





It works remarkably well!
I just have to clean the track, then I'm back in business!
Lee

[milw156]

My 5-year-old grandson, after seeing videos of the CPKC Holiday train on the tube, decided that his Brio layout should have one too and came up with this:

[jpwisc]

I’ve got about 40% of my layout converted to NPossibles now. I’m very happy with them so far!
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[up1950s]

Improved battery access on the Newport and Rock Falls.

Originally the entire backdrop, including some pretty delicate scenery and structure details, had to be removed to access the battery packs and the tunnel at the rear.  After having to take it all apart several times at N Scale Weekend, I decided it was time for a bit of corrective surgery.

First, I cut the battery pack and a portion of the rear fascia free from the backdrop.  Then, using a couple small hinges I found down in my hardware dungeon, created a pivoting panel that allows access without ever removing the skyboard ever again.





It works remarkably well!
I just have to clean the track, then I'm back in business!
Lee

[up1950s]

I got all the Midland Sub ballast down, and painted the ex-PRR/I&O yard lead from GK Tower with primer.  I also did a revised print of the Wesley Ave overpass.


I created the (test) backdrop above for the Midland Sub area in keeping with what seems to be a theme this week--I used Gemini AI to convert Google aerial photos to street level "nearly" 2D.  I'll get color print made.

Love that backdrop .

[nkalanaga]

Milw156:  Even very young children can do a lot more than many give them credit for.  I like his train!

[peteski]

Improved battery access on the Newport and Rock Falls.

I guess those 18 AA batteries aren't wired in series as I don't think any N scale electrical items require 27V DC!