Z Scale Open/Closed Tri-Level Autorack

[Jesse6669]

Have you considered making some of this stuff available through https://3dcentraltrains.com/ ?

I did get test prints made by a contract printer who has experience with models and the quality was not as good as I need (as good as I can do at home).  3DCentral might be able to do better, I suspect, since they do specialize in model railroad items.  In the meantime---a Z scale retailer is possibly going to stock a couple models that I'll make in small batches.  And as several of the TRW readership know I'll help out with onesy-twosy requests from "the catalog".  For example, right now I have an N scale Reading GHY gondola kit about ready to go that someone asked about.  And those H22a's.  And various decals.  So.. we'll see.  Is model railroading serious business?   

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I did get test prints made by a contract printer who has experience with models and the quality was not as good as I need (as good as I can do at home).  3DCentral might be able to do better, I suspect, since they do specialize in model railroad items.  In the meantime---a Z scale retailer is possibly going to stock a couple models that I'll make in small batches.  And as several of the TRW readership know I'll help out with onesy-twosy requests from "the catalog".  For example, right now I have an N scale Reading GHY gondola kit about ready to go that someone asked about.  And those H22a's.  And various decals.  So.. we'll see.  Is model railroading serious business?   

That's actually why I recommended that site. You've done a whole bunch of cool stuff that I bet the world at large would love, but I also bet the headache of selling any of it likely isn't worth the effort.

However, if it just consists of "send them the files, have a conversation, and cash an occasional check", well, that could be worth your time.

[Jesse6669]

However, if it just consists of "send them the files, have a conversation, and cash an occasional check", well, that could be worth your time.

I sent them an email via their "contact us" form.  Nothing yet.  If anyone happens have a direct contact, feel free to PM me.  At the very least those N scale H22a's and the Reading gons could go up there, methinks.   

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I sent them an email via their "contact us" form.  Nothing yet.  If anyone happens have a direct contact, feel free to PM me.  At the very least those N scale H22a's and the Reading gons could go up there, methinks.   

Email sent.

[Jesse6669]

I modified the basic version of the car to be just bare bones/frame, and the logo/lettering/number plates and enclosures are all applied separately.  Here are three different configurations.  I'm looking into the cost of etching the enclosed sides but as a base case I can 3D print them.  Decals should be arriving soon, so hopefully a couple decorated examples will be forthcoming in the next week or so.
 
I added tungsten putty to one of the tests by packing it into the center sill, and it weighs in at 10g.  It seems to stay on the track ok and has a low COG, but more weight could conceivably be added by putting some flat steel strip on the underside of the decks--with the added bonus of being a stiffener/brace.

[samusi01]

Consider what I do with my N scale flats - laser cut (sendcutsend.com) or water jet if you have the resources to do so.

Example of some of mine: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=57386.msg790354#msg790354

[Lemosteam]

If you can find space between the center sill sides, you could incorporate 1/16” dia pure tungsten welding rods glued in place. They will keep the frame from bowing, and likely add the weight you need.

[Jesse6669]

If you can find space between the center sill sides, you could incorporate 1/16” dia pure tungsten welding rods glued in place. They will keep the frame from bowing, and likely add the weight you need.

  Interesting idea, I could just print the underframe with 1/16 (+) hole(s) from end-to-end, slide them in.

[Lemosteam]

it works great- I've done it in my MT Pullman Underbody kit.  I have also hot glued them inside models for weight.  They are a bear to cut with a cutoff wheel though.

[Jesse6669]

AZL apparently had an open autorack design as a kit "in process" before I started this and they just released it (although I think mine's a bit more detailed.. )  Reading their instructions, they also use a tungsten rod as weight.   

[Jesse6669]

I tested two metallic paints for the enclosures on the autoracks on some scrap pieces.  Between these two I think I have a new metal and aged metal version.  Regarding the sides, I'm waiting for a quote on etching but to be honest--if this works I'm not going to bother.  There's more control and flexibility with the printed version (which are about 0.30mm thick).

The "aged/weathered" metal is AK Interactive Real Colors Marker Gun Metal (RCM032).  This is just a marker-type pen loaded with paint, apply and let dry--no further effort needed.  The "new" metal is AK Interactive True Metal Steel (AK457) which is a wax-based paint that comes in a tube.  You paint or scrub it on, let dry, then polish with an ear bud (Q-tip).

Here are two slightly different angles so the level of glare is visible.






 

[Chris333]

I'm guessing this is out of your era? 

https://realstmfc.groups.io/g/main/attachment/215934/3/GT69907%20FM-61ft_9-Buicks_-31Oct1922_FreeLibPhil30581.jpg

[Jesse6669]

The first decorated model, a NYC open tri-level.   I'm going to do one of the partially enclosed ones next.

I'm guessing this is out of your era? 
https://realstmfc.groups.io/g/main/attachment/215934/3/GT69907%20FM-61ft_9-Buicks_-31Oct1922_FreeLibPhil30581.jpg

LOL just a wee bit too old.  It would be an interesting project!

[Jesse6669]

Here's the enclosed version.  I have ordered etched sides in 0.30mm thick stainless steel.  We'll see how it works out.. kindof an expensive experiment but if it works I can order a large sheet with lower cost/piece.   At the same time, the 3D version isn't bad.  Etched would be thinner however.

[Jesse6669]

I received the etched sides from Ponoko on 0.26mm stainless steel and they are an improvement.  They are flatter, much stronger, and add some weight to the model.  The stainless steel looks "real" as well, for obvious reasons.

One of the nice things about using Krystal Klear to attach the 3D printed sides to the original model is that the parts are easy to remove.  I just moisten up a paintbrush, dabbed the joints on the ends and the old side popped off easily.  I did attach the new sides with ACC.  No going back now I suppose, but KK would've worked as well.