Weekend Update 6/22/25

[up1950s]

https://media.amtrak.com/nextgen-acela-trains/

https://www.brightlinewest.com/media/press-releases/2024/siemens-announces-high-speed-rail-facility-in-new-york

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=n-MRmiWU2wM

https://www.pottsmerc.com/2014/05/16/newest-colebrookdale-railroad-car-offers-360-experience-video/

https://pabucketlist.com/the-everett-railroad-steam-train-excursions-in-blair-county-pa/

https://jbritton.pennsyrr.com/index.php/tpm/blogs/latest-articles-blog/572-g31-series-gondola-information-for-modelers

[Sumner]

Painted the towers with a first coat of black and will come back later and weather them some.

 

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Sumner

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Started the weekend off with a visit to @DeltaBravo for lunch.

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[turbowhiz]

I took a baby step on the Bachmann Mogul to CNR e-10-a transformation…

1st up, the signature 38” 10 spoke leading wheel. My own insert design printed and pressed into a drilled-out ESM 38” wheel. I think I can do even a little better on some subtle details, but for a first attempt I’m happy.



Unfortunately, the Bachmann drivers are undersize relative to the prototype, so it looks a tad off. And although the overall wheelbase is close to perfect, the spacing is offset the wrong way too. Hrmmph. Maybe this just turns into a whole “lets just scratchbuild a proper e-10-a” but let’s see where this goes.

Next up will be a proper pilot to fix that egregious monster coupler hole. It’s a chance to incorporate the planned “steam pilot” N-Possible coupler, so it will push that up the development chain.

[Iain]

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Building another NS GP18

[peteski]

I took a baby step on the Bachmann Mogul to CNR e-10-a transformation…

1st up, the signature 38” 10 spoke leading wheel. My own insert design printed and pressed into a drilled-out ESM 38” wheel. I think I can do even a little better on some subtle details, but for a first attempt I’m happy.



Unfortunately, the Bachmann drivers are undersize relative to the prototype, so it looks a tad off. And although the overall wheelbase is close to perfect, the spacing is offset the wrong way too. Hrmmph. Maybe this just turns into a whole “lets just scratchbuild a proper e-10-a” but let’s see where this goes.

Wow!  That's impressive!  How about a compromise?  Use a 36" wheel for your custom 10-spoke wheel?  Being that  the drivers are undersized, it might balance out.  Easier that scratchbuilding the entire running gear!

[Chris333]

Kato spoked wheels are pretty nice, but they are 33".

[peteski]

Kato spoked wheels are pretty nice, but they are 33".

They are, but only 8 spokes.

[basementcalling]

In progress attempt to model a specific car. Still needs a few rust spots and the graffiti.

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Here's the real car.

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[Sumner]

Coal Mine Scenery – Pt. 1 & Tips...

Part 1 of the upper level coal mine scenery east of the mine will also be an overview of the tools I use to shape the foam board into rock faces for my local. You can also use similar methods/tools to create other types of terrain.

 

The tools shown above are my ‘go-to’ tools for working with foam board. I ordered and used a couple other hot wire tools than the ones shown above but these are by far better than what they were. I highly recommend these tools from the Hot Wire Foam Factory . The free-hand routers by far gets the most use. More info on the tools, where to get them and how to use them (for sure check this out here) .
 
 

To make one layer of foam board scenery I start with a paper towel and a pen and sharpie. Use my imagination on how I want the basic contour to look. I’ll sketch it out on the base layout foam and then recreate that with the paper towels. They work well since they are flexible and you can push them up against the end of another piece and then mark that angle by running a pen along the fold. If you need more length tape more together.

 

Next I use the small brush above about 90% of the time and a larger wire brush, a file or something else the other 10% of the time. If you want a more angular look to the rock face don’t use the brush much. If you want smoother rock faces be more aggressive with the brush. You can pick and knock off edges more with the end brush and use the other longer brush to smooth surfaces. Experiment with them..

 

Normally to this point I would do the foam work in place on the layout. I probably should of finished this area before I did the lower level as it is a real reach to get into the center of this section as the layout is 6 feet wide. I’ve been working on a ladder on the left side above and an elevated platform on the right side. I’m only good for a couple hours at a time climbing up and down.

I’ll continue working on this on/off the layout to get the shape I want (not sure what that is at this point). Then I’ll do all the spackling and painting off the layout and this section will probably always be removable for adding more detail later.

More images along with more info on using the tools on Railwire ....

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=58208.msg823185#new

A link to this whole build ( HERE ) .

Sumner

[spr1955]

Some nice scenery this weekend from several so figured I would through in some too.  Here is a continuation from East Staging that loops around so I wanted to block the view of that as much as possible yet keep it open.





This next shot is from the other side. I was testing a hopper 3d print that arrived for tracking, it's the one in the middle with just primer on it. Pulled and pushed it back thru the single portal in the rear back to the steel mill yard. Happy with it.

[Jesse6669]

Progress on the E. Norwood layout continued.. the yard tracks are almost done, just need to install the engine house tracks running to the foundation visible there.  The engine house is being constructed from an Archistories kit and a few 3D printed add-ons are in the making (doors, lighting fixtures).



I also did some more work on the B&O CPLs; I test painted a version and pretty happy how it looks.  It's getting close to "final". 



Lighting these will be a bit tricky--I acquired some 0201 warm white LEDs and needed to test how they'd fit and look.  This pic shows one installed on a CPL head powered by 3V plus resistor, and some clear red paint over the lens opening.  Light bleed didn't seem bad and I like the look of the red.  Gotta test green next. 

[CR4100]

I did a test print of an EMD BL20-2. I find it easier to spot errors on a physical model than on a computer screen. I plan on making the finished version Railink 2120-2122.

[Lemosteam]

Backdating my Slvan Models tugboat kit to represent this LIRR version. Although the doors and port windows are close, they are obviously not the same, but good enough for me.  The biggest change is the pilot house, so I designed a little kit to make the wheelhouse a little smaller over the galley below. I also added the staircase from the lower deck to the upper deck. The two piece kit allows me to superdetail the interior of the wheelhouse with the Sylvan parts. The model will eventually be fully lighted with a crew. The stairway railing is a GMM observation railing folded to fit. Lots more details to add prior to paint.

http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/lirrtugs/LIRR%20Tug%20Patchogue%20-%20LIC%20-%2010-44.jpg

[Cory Rothlisberger]

No, my little 2x4 layout did not need a staging yard, but here we are...



Need to finish wiring it up then figure out a structure to block the view a bit.