Ideas for making a tarp for an open-top semi-trailer

[nickelplate759]

You may recall the thread a while ago on the new-ish Evemodel 35' semi-trailer:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=59244.0

After some research, it appears that the only 35' trailers with horizontal-ribbed sides that the NKP had were either refrigerators, painted silver, or open-top trailers, painted blue.
So, I'll do a couple in silver for refrigerators (Evemodel even sells them with a correct number), but I like the idea of doing a few open-top trailers.   In pictures they almost always have a tarp over them, so I figure I can
1. add the tarp tie-down rail along the side
2. put a tarp over the top and pretend it's open.

Here's an example of what I'm going for (in N&W service, but still original paint):



So far so good - but I'm at a loss as to how to model the tarp (N-scale).  Any suggestions?

[Tom Todd]

Try tissue paper

[nickelplate759]

Try tissue paper

Can you elaborate?

[jagged ben]

Large heat shrink tubing?

[chessie system fan]

The tarp is the easier part. Just use a black plastic bag cut to size (and maybe dullcoat it first to cut down on the shine).  The more difficult challenge is the tie-down straps.  I can't think of a way in N scale to make those look good.

[eja]

My first thought was tissue paper.....   many moons ago I wanted to recreate the look of the tar paper (or whatever ) roof on a heavyweight passenger car.  I put tissue paper on it, spritzed it with water to hold it place and dabbed it with a black, water based paint until the tissue was soaked (mildly) then let it dry completely.

Once dry, I trimmed the tissue to fit the roof and it looked great. This might work for your application too. Tie downs? Sorry, I have no idea.

Good luck ... let us know what you do ....


eja

[fhmac]

Here is an idea to create a tarp for any object - railroad car or freight load to be covered.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-lu7KwK45I][/url]
TIP: You would be better off using kleenex facial tissue rather than toilet paper.
REASON: British toilet paper has the consistency of American facial tissue.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-lu7KwK45I][/url]

[bbussey]

Paper Shaper by VMS will allow you to form tarps from regular paper and then hold the shape.  It turns regular paper into a pliable substance and then dries hardened in the final shape.  Once you have the tarp formed to the desired contour, you can use thin wire for the tie-downs.  The product is used primarily for military models, such as loose tarps or rags thrown on a tank body or turret, but can be used for open-top trailers as well.

https://www.vms-supplies.com/vms-paper-shaper

[robert3985]

The tarp is the easier part. Just use a black plastic bag cut to size (and maybe dullcoat it first to cut down on the shine).  The more difficult challenge is the tie-down straps.  I can't think of a way in N scale to make those look good.

Use white 6-0 (that's "Six-ought") woven suture silk, which is what I use along with the same stuff in black.  Non-sterile of course.  It's between 0.003" and 0.002" in diameter.  I can't really get an exact measurement since it squashes between my stainless caliper jaws. Additionally, it accepts knots very well since it is designed to be securely tied off after stitching up cuts.

Something that I've thought about, but never used, would be silk fly-tying thread...not fly-fishing line, but fine (as fine as possible) real silk thread used for tying flies.  I see that it's listed in "ought" sizes also, but nowhere have I been able to find an actual diameter.  You can get it "twisted", but not woven like suture silk, but in many colors as opposed to just white and black for suture silk.   

If using a "thread" other than suture silk, I would run it through a cake of beeswax before using, then running it through your fingers to melt the wax into the thread.  This causes any "fuzz" to lay down and also preserves the thread.  This is a trick I learned years ago when building sailing ship models professionally for the rigging.

Presently, I use my 6-0 black suture silk mostly for making smokejack braces on my transition era cabooses.  It stretches just a little, soaks up CA so it glues very well and stays put.  As opposed to my attempt to use fine wire of various metals and various thicknesses, the suture silk is by far the best, since it seems to be unaffected by humidity, temperature and remains taught...for decades.

Photo (1) - N-scale Caboose Smokejack Braces Made From 6-0 Suture Silk:


Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[sizemore]

I'd make a form that fits inside the body of the trailer, then use the VMS stuff like Bryan suggested or diluted white glue mix. The issue will be wrinkles around the corners. Might even consider parchment paper over tissue, as its still porous, flexible with finer grain.

The S.

[bigdawgks]

I've made tarps out of tissues and PVA. The results are quite nice.



The process is simple:

• Cover your model in plastic wrap. This will be the form for your tarp.
• Wrap a tissue over the plastic wrap and pull it taught over the edges.
• Use a rubber band below the bottom of where your tarp will end to hold the tissue taught.
• Use a spray bottle to apply a PVA glue diluted in water. Don't soak it too much as the tissue will expand when wet.
• Let dry and remove the rubber bands and tissue. It will be hard but still a little flexible.
• Trim the tissue just above where the rubber band was using scissors or a knife.
• Paint with an airbrush or spray can.

The finished results:

[robert3985]

I've tried all sorts of paper for making canvas objects in N-scale.  The last attempt was making folded-up cab curtains on the back of a second-run Key FEF-2 because I was highly dissatisfied with the injection molded items that came with the model...they insulted the fine details on the rest of the model.

For mine, I used dry teabag paper stiffened with Mod Podge Stiffy, which I thinned down a bit with distilled water.  Worked great! ...and the teabag paper, stained with tea, was the perfect dirty tan color I wanted.

The hard part for me was doing the drapery so it looked "real", but the thinness of the teabag paper made getting the drapery folds pretty easy, especially after I made a fixture to hang and shape the curtains on while fiddling with them while they were still wet.

However, I don't think a single teabag is going to be enough for your project.  Luckily, you can buy teabag paper in various thicknesses, colors, and textures easily online, or maybe at Michaels and/or Hobby Lobby.

Then, after it's dry, you can paint it and weather it to your liking.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore 

[Peachymike]

Something I have tried with pretty good success for tarp loads is using tissue with 3d resin. Brush a section with resin, shape it, shoot it with UV light and repeat. Takes paint well, and depending on the paper type and saturation, you can vary the effect to look like canvas or plastic. If you don’t have a light, a nice sunny day will work, just don’t take it outside before you’re ready to set it.

[CRL]

Model airplane Silkspan.