"Seeing" Micro Scale Decals

[Mike Madonna]

Good evening,

Looking for some guidance regarding the above. The decal set I'm working with is a white decal. Since there is NOT a dark "background",
it is very difficult to read the decal lettering/numbers. I have tried the coloring the back of the backing paper with a blue Sharpie. That DID
make the decal very easily "readable". However, the blue "bled" onto the back of the decal. One applied to model, one can see a slight trace
of blue under the decal film. I did this "test" on a gloss coated spare shell, NOT the model for which it is intended.
Any ideas/methods would be appreciated! Thanks in advance....

 

[MK]

Mike, try putting a light behind it.  Best if you have a light box.  Or hold it up to a light source.

(I'm assuming you are trying to see the decal to cut before soaking and applying.)

[peteski]

Microscale decals are usually made on blue-backing paper. I'm surprised to see one made on paper that is so pale that the white images don't show up.
I agree that using a dark permanent marker like you did (maybe you will find one that is older (drier) which will apply less ink so it does not soak through the paper, or using strong backlight are the only 2 methods I know of.

Or try to make quick strokes with the Sharpie so less ink gets soaked into the paper.

[mu26aeh]

I've used my cell phone flash light behind the paper, or I'll try to load the image on the MicroScale website and see if I can read it there, and find the corresponding decal on the sheet.

[OrangeAnon]

Strong light and strong magnification are some of the best tools that often don't get thought of as tools. I have a Microscale decal sheet with some absolutely microscopic graphics; the text ended up really being just a series of dots. But I can see them well enough to cut out with this magnifier I bought: https://a.co/d/b4CEDay Hands down one of the best purchases I've made when it comes to working with N scale.

[Sokramiketes]

The sharpie trick seems to be everywhere in Model Railroad lore.  But it's useless.  Ha!

[JoeD]

I've put a small sheet of acrylic the size of my I phone display, put the flashlight on and lay it and the decal on the surface.  You can see the image much better and cut it out without the obvious devaluing the phone in the process.     

Joe

[robert3985]

I have the same problem when applying verrrry small white decals to my steam engines' air tanks, cab, etc.  I want to make sure I get everything right for that particular type of engine.

Since my eyesight isn't nearly as good as it once was, I now use one of three Optivisors to help me out...but the white against the very light blue makes even #5 Optivisors not much help, so...I got the bright idea to try my UV flashlight I picked up at Hobby Lobby for curing liquid 3D resin when I need to glue parts together...and VOILA! I could read the tiny lettering very easily!

The UV flashlight was only about 9 Bucks (if I remember correctly) so, even if you don't have any resin to cure, it WILL make white lettering against light blue paper legible.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Mike Madonna]

All,

Thanks for the replies and sharing your solutions.
JoeD the acrylic sounds like a possible solution.
Robert, I have a UV light (Bondic). I presume you "backlight" the decal sheet or ???

[robert3985]

All,

Thanks for the replies and sharing your solutions.
JoeD the acrylic sounds like a possible solution.
Robert, I have a UV light (Bondic). I presume you "backlight" the decal sheet or ???

No, I shine the light directly onto the sheet.  The sheet glows, the lettering glows less...at least on my decal sheets so the lettering appears darker.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore