Weekend Update 5/18/25

[Ed Kapuscinski]

So far so good this weekend.

First, a relatively complaint free day as Scranton yardmaster on the EL. I had four simultaneous movements going on within my plant here.

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It almost feels like I'm starting to know what I'm doing there.

Now, with something where I feel like I'm climbing up the learning curve... Another steam project.

I'm working on getting closer to MA&PA 27.

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[robert3985]

This printer continues to amaze me, making printing really fun again.

Testing some of my truck designs. Testing these first as some folks requested them, and it proves that my most feared and fragile design is in fact printable. It’s not often that I am speechless. Note the images below of my roller and friction bearing Q trucks, including the one with a generator, which is surprisingly robust. Note the equalizer rod which is only 0.4mm in diameter. I tried removing the supports on the rod before curing which failed. Then I tried after curing with a brand new exacto blade.






The trucks after cleaning the axle pockets, with ESM 33” x0.540” axle length. They roll extremely well.

@Lemosteam - Okay, those look GREAT!  Better than your Shapeways offering by far!  I'm ready to order some of your friction-bearing outside swing-hanger trucks when they become available!  I presume they'll include resin mounting hardware for the Intermountain-Centralia Car Shops CA3/CA4???

HOORAY!!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Lemosteam]

@Lemosteam - Okay, those look GREAT!  Better than your Shapeways offering by far!  I'm ready to order some of your friction-bearing outside swing-hanger trucks when they become available!  I presume they'll include resin mounting hardware for the Intermountain-Centralia Car Shops CA3/CA4???

HOORAY!!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

Bob, not sure what you mean by hardware. These are identical to the Shapeways version, designed for an MT bolster pin. I do not have the caboose you are referring to so if there is something else needed to mount these, you’ll have to get creative.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

This printer continues to amaze me, making printing really fun again.

Testing some of my truck designs. Testing these first as some folks requested them, and it proves that my most feared and fragile design is in fact printable. It’s not often that I am speechless. Note the images below of my roller and friction bearing Q trucks, including the one with a generator, which is surprisingly robust. Note the equalizer rod which is only 0.4mm in diameter. I tried removing the supports on the rod before curing which failed. Then I tried after curing with a brand new exacto blade.













The trucks after cleaning the axle pockets, with ESM 33” x0.540” axle length. They roll extremely well.

Whoa, those look amazing.

[mplsjct]

Haven’t done anything for quite a while on the layout, but here are some pics I took today, because sometimes you just want to watch the trains run…

BN SD40-2’s passing the GN station in Minneapolis…



Here they are again sliding underneath the intersection of Broadway and Central in NE Mpls…



Waiting at Van Buren street while a taconite train proceeds on the old NP B line….

[altohorn25]

I finished up another flat car and load for my late 1940's RBBB circus train.

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[Sumner]

High Bridge Part 3...

Continuing on with getting what I call the ‘High Bridge’ designed, printed and put in place along with the foam work in the area.  Here are a few images....





I made the paint booth above a while back ( HERE ).







There is more info and images on Railwire here....

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=58208.msg821534#new

Sumner

[randgust]

The McCabe Ttrak module has made some real progress.  Finished all the trees, and got the first layers of turf, all the ballast down, and have the log pond ready for water.

And after creating one %$## of a mess like you do in ballasting and turfing, everything still works.   What a relief.  Nn3 with 4 1/2 curves is more than 'a little fussy' about dirt and glue contamination.

At this point it's starting to look 'done' but I have a lot I want to do yet in detail, but all the major stuff is complete.



link:  http://www.randgust.com/McCabe13.jpg

[Jesse6669]

I was traveling for a good part of the week but when I got home I jumped back into the project to make an N scale H22 hopper.  Originally it was just an extension for a Bowser H21, but that's technically not accurate so it morphed into a more correct full version..  I'm nearly ready to test print this:   

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I also found this little gem to decorate the train room--it's a logo plaque from the side of a 1960's B&O "Trailer Service" TOFC dry van:   

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[crrcoal]

Cool layout! Who is the owner?

So far so good this weekend.

First, a relatively complaint free day as Scranton yardmaster on the EL. I had four simultaneous movements going on within my plant here.

(Attachment Link)

It almost feels like I'm starting to know what I'm doing there.

Now, with something where I feel like I'm climbing up the learning curve... Another steam project.

I'm working on getting closer to MA&PA 27.

(Attachment Link)

[garethashenden]

I decaled two Fine N Scale boxcar kits. An X31A and an X32, both with K4 decals. They need some more MicroSol and weathering, but they're coming along.

[Cory Rothlisberger]

Not much modeling going on for me lately. Did work on a control panel project that I've had in the back of my head for some time. There's only one remote crossover and 2 blocks on my 2x4 DC layout. I took some artistic liberties with a tower board and 3D printed this one.



I'm generally happy with how it came out. Simple and gets the job done. Kids love the LEDs and the fact they can control the signals and such. I'm enjoying playing with the soldering iron and dusting off my lackluster electronic skillz. Now to just find more uses for the 100 bi-color LEDs I have...

[Jesse6669]

Did work on a control panel project that I've had in the back of my head for some time. There's only one remote crossover and 2 blocks on my 2x4 DC layout. I took some artistic liberties with a tower board and 3D printed this one.


I'm generally happy with how it came out. Simple and gets the job done. Kids love the LEDs and the fact they can control the signals and such. I'm enjoying playing with the soldering iron and dusting off my lackluster electronic skillz. Now to just find more uses for the 100 bi-color LEDs I have...

That's really nice, inspiring me to try something like that for my Norwood layout. 

[John]

Rick Sutton (on my podcast) talked about using foam core board for structure placement that you attach to the layout and take off to work on the
"Dominos" section. I started working on one this week. I found smaller "art boards," and they are working for the John Deere dealer job. It will be
secured with screws long enough to go thru the foam onto the sub road bed (plywood).

It's a good idea, but the foam boards from wally world and others tend to warp - as you can see .. when I use them, they get glued solid to the layout base - as you noted, its easy to work on them, but when you get done, definately glue it down

[OldEastRR]

Rick Sutton (on my podcast) talked about using foam core board for structure placement that you attach to the layout and take off to work on the
"Dominos" section. I started working on one this week. I found smaller "art boards," and they are working for the John Deere dealer job. It will be secured with screws long enough to go thru the foam onto the sub road bed (plywood).

Oh yeah, this is the way to go for any structure or block of buildings scene. Make a base out of foam core, .040 styrene sheet, or even thin masonite, to fit the installation you're modelling. Work comfortablly at the workbench building the structure(s) and any details inside or outside it right on the base, weather it, then fasten it (permanently or not) on the open space waiting for it on the layout. If you want to attach it to the layout put screws through the floors of building interiors. Whether you firmly attach it or not, you can add scenic materials around the edges to blend it in. It's especially good for building whole flat blocks of city scenes. It totally eliminates the "floating on air" look of buildings just set down on uneven or rough ground surfaces.

You can even build a set of homes, on separate landscaped lots, w/ sidewalks and driveways, the same way.