Caution: Drill bits

[nickelplate759]

Is a Dremel in its drill press stand usable with these bits?  The stand isn't exactly rigid.

[JeffB]

Is a Dremel in its drill press stand usable with these bits?  The stand isn't exactly rigid.

I'm surprised you can even use them at all in a Dremel.  I've never had a Dremel tool that wouldn't vibrate like crazy above the lower two speed settings and I don't think the collets run true enough either.

I purchased a Foredom flex shaft tool about a year ago...  Much better hand tool, but of course you're going to pay a lot more for it than a Dremel.

I was able to use it with a 0.25mm bit without too much grief.

Jeff

[Maletrain]

Thanks for the info, Peteski.

I was wondering about hand drilling with them in plastic.  High speed there would probably cause melt and maybe grab.  I do want to drill for 0.008" bronze wire for grabs, so that is probably the #85 bit, which I don't have in steel.  I might make a "hand drill press" that holds the pin vice perpendicular to the table plane for using those.

[jwaldo]

Yeesh Pete, a #95 drill bit?! I'm pretty sure I'd manage to break that just by thinking about it too hard.

I'm surprised you can even use them at all in a Dremel.  I've never had a Dremel tool that wouldn't vibrate like crazy above the lower two speed settings and I don't think the collets run true enough either.

I purchased a Foredom flex shaft tool about a year ago...  Much better hand tool, but of course you're going to pay a lot more for it than a Dremel.

I was able to use it with a 0.25mm bit without too much grief.

Jeff

I only just got the stand attachment, but even handheld my Dremel has very little vibration and good stability*. Enough so that I've broken far fewer of the 0.2mm bits using it than I have with a pin vise.

*As long as I use a single-size collet. The adjustable drill-chuck-style collet has enough run-out to turn any bit into an unusable vibrating nightmare. Now that's a letdown for the cost.

[peteski]

Yeesh Pete, a #95 drill bit?! I'm pretty sure I'd manage to break that just by thinking about it too hard.

I have to admit that I broke couple of those but it was my fault (I do use those in a drill press), but I still manage to drill holes  (in plastic) with it.

I only just got the stand attachment, but even handheld my Dremel has very little vibration and good stability*. Enough so that I've broken far fewer of the 0.2mm bits using it than I have with a pin vise.

*As long as I use a single-size collet. The adjustable drill-chuck-style collet has enough run-out to turn any bit into an unusable vibrating nightmare. Now that's a letdown for the cost.

Yes, all the adjustable drill chucks for Dremel I have tried have a terrible run-out which makes them unusable for using them with very small drills.  That is why I find using the 1/8" shank PCB bits with a 1/8" collet so handy. Those run much truer than anything else.

I also made my own slow speed drill from an older Dremel flex-shaft handpiece driven by an adjustable-speed geared coreless motor.  It works very well with the PCB drill bits. 

[Chris333]

the adjustable drill chucks for Dremel

I always wondered how folks used those because mine was always so crappy. Guess they all are?

[rodsup9000]

Is a Dremel in its drill press stand usable with these bits?  The stand isn't exactly rigid.

If your stand is like mine, NO
Get something like this

[peteski]

I use Micro-Mark variable speed drill press. Looks like Micro-Mark doesn't sell it anymore.

[nickelplate759]

I'm surprised you can even use them at all in a Dremel.  I've never had a Dremel tool that wouldn't vibrate like crazy above the lower two speed settings and I don't think the collets run true enough either.

I purchased a Foredom flex shaft tool about a year ago...  Much better hand tool, but of course you're going to pay a lot more for it than a Dremel.

I was able to use it with a 0.25mm bit without too much grief.

Jeff

By coincidence, my wife handed me her Foredom tool just the other day and said "can you set it up in the train room?".

[Dwight in Toronto]

Dumb question time … what, exactly, is this “run-out” characteristic of which you guys speak?

[garethashenden]

Dumb question time … what, exactly, is this “run-out” characteristic of which you guys speak?

It’s a measurement of how concentric the tool is when compared to the spindle. With high runout, one side of the tool turns in a somewhat eccentric motion, with one side doing far more work than the other. This causes chattering, poor surface finish, oversized holes, and tool breakage.

Making parts with minimal runout is possible, but more difficult and therefore more expensive. So it comes down to how much you’re willing to pay. Three jaw chucks inherently have more runout than collets, but they’re far more versatile.

[JeffB]

I use Micro-Mark variable speed drill press. Looks like Micro-Mark doesn't sell it anymore.

I have one too...  Works great.  I wouldn't be without it and honestly, I'd recommend a small dedicated drill press to anyone that does a lot of kitbashing/scratchbuilding.

I'm on a few UK model train forums and I'm always amazed at how a lot of the guys building those etched metal "flat pack" mechanisms get away with opening up holes for things like crankpins and axle bearings using tapered hand reamers.

By coincidence, my wife handed me her Foredom tool just the other day and said "can you set it up in the train room?".

Lucky you!  You're going to love it.  Such a huge step up from a Dremel.  Doesn't even need collets, the chuck on mine is really good, very little runout.

I only just got the stand attachment, but even handheld my Dremel has very little vibration and good stability*. Enough so that I've broken far fewer of the 0.2mm bits using it than I have with a pin vise.

*As long as I use a single-size collet. The adjustable drill-chuck-style collet has enough run-out to turn any bit into an unusable vibrating nightmare. Now that's a letdown for the cost.

Hmmm...  You must have one of those "Unicorns" then.  I've owned 4 or 5 Dremel tools (two plug in and the rest battery powered) over the last 30 odd years and none of them were all that great in terms of usability over the lowest settings.  Far too much vibration and even the collets are questionable. 

Jeff

[Doug G.]

The Mascot bits I got from Mike Fifer in the circular base are excellent.

Doug

[peteski]

It’s a measurement of how concentric the tool is when compared to the spindle. With high runout, one side of the tool turns in a somewhat eccentric motion, with one side doing far more work than the other. This causes chattering, poor surface finish, oversized holes, and tool breakage.

Making parts with minimal runout is possible, but more difficult and therefore more expensive. So it comes down to how much you’re willing to pay. Three jaw chucks inherently have more runout than collets, but they’re far more versatile.

This is an animation showing the problem but it is in reverse. Imagine that if the large was spinning withotu the wobble then the small black  circle would have the wobble. Every chuck will have some run out, but more basic and inexpensive a chuck is, the more of a runout it will likely have.  This is not super critical with larger drill sizes (and handheld drills) but with smaller diameter bits the runout can easily exceed the drill bit's diameter

I have also replaced the standard Jacobs chuck on my drill press with a precision keyless Albrecht chuck. Well worth the extra cost.

[JeffB]

I've looked into Albrect chucks for both my Micro Mark drill press and my Sherline and Taig mills...  Ultimately, the increase in precision over the stock chuck wasn't enough to justify the price of the Albrect chuck.

The stock chucks for all machines were actually half decent.  I've used the 0.2mm carbide PCB drills in my Micro Mark drill press without much issue, but usually only drilling wood or plastics.

Jeff