Kato Unitrack #6 turnout power routing is intermittent

[Trnsrus]

One leg of turnout has track power feeders, the other leg has none and leads to a stub siding. The turnout is not connected to a control circuit; it is manually operated. When the switch is thrown for the siding, the siding sometimes fails to receive track power. Flipping the switch points back and forth a few times or tapping on the turnout will usually energize the siding. This problem has been occurring more and more frequently so I pulled up the turnout and examined the mechanism and found nothing to account for the problem. (photos to follow)  There is no visible debris or damage except for the arches paths worn across the stationary contacts by the moving pole contacts. The four bonds to the rails appear intact and solid. I started to polish the contact surfaces but stopped when it appeared that the brass colored surface was being worn away revealing a white metal subsurface.  I wiped a thin coat of No-Ox-Id A-Special onto all the contact surfaces and assembled the unit. The unit bench tested OK using a meter, but haven't road tested it yet since a new turnout replaced it when it was removed from the layout. A second turnout, out of ten total, has the same problem. They have been in use for about three or four years on an unbalasted, unsceniced home layout in a clean finished basement room containing a gas fired furnace. Has anyone else had this problem or have suggestions for a remedy?

[Trnsrus]

[peteski]

If the contact is restored after moving the lever few times seems to indicate intermittent contact. Maybe the moving wiper contacts do not exert enough pressure to positive connection with the pads ont eh circuit board?  Maybe bend them slightly to increase the contact pressure?

I suppose you could also check contact of the metal pieces which connect the PC board to the track.  It appears that those metal contacts are spot-welded to the track. Maybe solder the metal contacts to the PC board for positive contact.

[NorsemanJack]

Did you buy that new or used?  I can't believe that Kato factory soldering would look like that.

[Trnsrus]

Did you buy that new or used?  I can't believe that Kato factory soldering would look like that.

Turnout bought new 3 or 4 years ago and unaltered by me.

[peteski]

Did you buy that new or used?  I can't believe that Kato factory soldering would look like that.

Actually the led-free solder everybody uses nowadays usually results in dull looking solder joints.

[Doug G.]

I thought these switches were BULLETPROOF.



Doug

[peteski]

I thought these switches were BULLETPROOF.


Doug

They *ARE*!  I dont' see any bullet holes in it. 

[OldEastRR]

Oh no! Just after I committed to buying a bunch of these for my holding yard, I find out THIS!!!! Please tell me this is just a fluke incident, all you heavy-use Unitrack honchos!!!

[peteski]

Oh no! Just after I committed to buying a bunch of these for my holding yard, I find out THIS!!!! Please tell me this is just a fluke incident, all you heavy-use Unitrack honchos!!!

It's a fluke incident!   
I don't use Unitrak turnouts but I just  wanted to make you feel better. 

[Doug G.]

I don't think I would worry too much about it. I don't use Unitrack either, but...

Doug

[ATSF_Ron]

One entire section of my L shaped layout is all Unitrack. I’ve never had an issue with any of my turnouts. Mine are ballasted. Track has been down permanently since 2017 or so. Indoor layout. Spare bedroom.

ATSF_Ron

[Trnsrus]

I disassembled the second turnout which had been even more operationally troublesome than the first. The mechanism appeared as pristine as that of the first turnout. I scrubbed all contact surfaces with a tiny amount of No-Ox-Id A-Special on a cotton swab, including top and bottom pivot surfaces of the rotating switch pole. Be careful when removing the pole piece; it is very delicate and can bend and crease easily (don't ask how I know this!). After assembling and re-installing the turnout in a staging yard, it no longer failed to route power to the selected track. My remaining eight #6 turnouts and two scissors crossovers have not developed this problem, fwiw.

[NorsemanJack]

Actually the led-free solder everybody uses nowadays usually results in dull looking solder joints.

It's not the dullness.  Although I have had formal training in soldering, my solder results never looked that great.  But, they looked a whole lot better than in the photo.  I still can't believe that they left the Kato factory looking like that. 

[peteski]

It's not the dullness.  Although I have had formal training in soldering, my solder results never looked that great.  But, they looked a whole lot better than in the photo.  I still can't believe that they left the Kato factory looking like that.

I have also have been soldering on a professional (as a techincian) and personal (as a hobby) level for over 40 years, and to me those solder joints look acceptable.  There is a right amount of solder for a good joint (not too little or too much), they are smooth (not chunkiness), and the wires are cleanly stripped of insulation.  Visually the only flaw is that the surfaces aren't  shiny and tiny amount of flux is visible.

As I mentioned, today's lead-free alloy solder, especially when using manual soldering, will not harden to a smooth surface. I still use the 63/37 electronic solder and good solder joints using that solder will have mirror-like surface finish.  But when I have to rework lead-free solder joints, mine will look similar to the ones in the Kato turnout.