The tools I use (1/4 - 3D and 2D software)

[InterurbanModels]

Being still limited with photo uploads, I make some 'text only' posts.
Those are the tools I use, starting with software

3D drawing: Cinema4D (mostly) and MoI (sometimes).
I would not recommend Cinema4D, it is very expensive, difficult, genuinely an animation software. But I needed to learn it for my paid job in the news industry, and now I am sticking to it. Once overcome the difficult interface, it is possible to make good objects for 3D printers. Output format can be either STL or OBJ.

2D drawing: Adobe Illustrator. I learned it also for my paid work, now I still like it. I use it for 2D shapes before importing it to Cinema4D, and making drawings for my Laser Cutter. And for any other artwork.

Volkmar (1/4)

[InterurbanModels]

(2/4 - the design process)

It is known that 3D design basically has no scale, the objects are placed in a virtually infinite space. To overcome the calamity of imperial measures (yes US units are a calamity!!), I use this feature, I am drawing my models in real scale 1:1, all measures translatetd into Inches, rounded to the next quarter (.25 , .5 , .75) . Only when exported, I scale them down (1:48, 1:87, 1:160, ...) and translate into millimeters.

In a  first time, it is a little bit difficult, but now I know that 3.5 inch is about 1 millimeter in HO scale or 0.55 mm in N scale, somewhat magical values when it comes to machine limits.

This workflow may look strange, but it is just training, and it speeds up the drawing process, because ther is nothing to recalculate from original US blueprints.
(2/4)

[InterurbanModels]

(3/4 - The Hardware)
Before owning and mastering 3D printers, I used services from Shapeways and iMaterialize. Now I want to control the entire production chain, using the following machines:

Resin: Anycubic Photon 5.5
Filament: Prusa MK4 with 0.25mm nozzle. Prusa XL with 0.4mm nozzle
Laser Cutter : Zing Epilog

For a while I was very enthusiastic about resin printing. But there are some issues, like warping, brittleness, unexpected errors, and the toxicity, all that have cooled me down. I am still doing it, but less.

In the meantime, I have tuned my PLA printers, specially the MK4 with 0.25 nozzle. Printing fine details down to 0.6mm diameter, or lowering the layer height down to 0.03 mm. It was a lot of trial and error, but I have good and stable results now.

I am using the Laser cutter for making houses and structures, mainly made of thin MDF or cardboard, and for cutting transparent plastic sheets to make glassing for passenger cars.
(3/4)

[InterurbanModels]

(4/4 - materials)

When printing fine parts with filament, quality of the material is paramount. I have best results with PolyMax PLA, grey. I sticks well to the plate, show little artifacts, don't clogg, and is very tough, remains a little bit elastic.

Since few months, I use also a special color filament, with precise matched color shades (RAL), printing models in complex striped liveries, avoiding the need to paint (painting is so painful !!). More about this when I can post with pictures.

As resin, I use Anycubic

The laser cutter can handle any wood or plastic up to 6mm thickness, but PVC and any chloride plastics should be avoided.
This is the overview of my tools, best regards, Volkmar (4/4)

[robert3985]

(4/4 - materials)

When printing fine parts with filament, quality of the material is paramount. I have best results with PolyMax PLA, grey. I sticks well to the plate, show little artifacts, don't clogg, and is very tough, remains a little bit elastic.

Since few months, I use also a special color filament, with precise matched color shades (RAL), printing models in complex striped liveries, avoiding the need to paint (painting is so painful !!). More about this when I can post with pictures.

As resin, I use Anycubic

The laser cutter can handle any wood or plastic up to 6mm thickness, but PVC and any chloride plastics should be avoided.

This is the overview of my tools, best regards, Volkmar (4/4)

@InterurbanModels - Thanks Volkmar for the information!  I'm teaching myself Fusion 360 with a subscription, and so far, I like it a lot.

I also use Anycubic resins for my projects and I'm very happy with the results I'm getting both in N-scale and G-gauge.  By spending a bit more for ABS-Like Resin Pro 2, and their Tough Resin 2, I've been able to resolve details and have durability at the same time...with no "brittleness" that their "standard" resin suffered from 3 or 4 years ago.

I am very careful with my 3D resin printing, first by having a well-ventilated room where it's done, and using gloves, bib and respirator when I've got uncured resin in the open, with a mountain of paper towels always handy along with readily accessible 91% IPA for quick cleanups.

I haven't found a "need" for a filament printer yet, but I'm sure that's in my future.

I have a very good Nn3 friend who owns his own high-quality industrial LASER printer/engraver, so any details that I need cut, he is happy to do that for me...but, I see a LASER printer in my near future also.

I'm very impressed with your work and your willingness to share your experience and information.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[chessie system fan]

That's quite a laser cutting investment!  Now that you're at the magic 25 number, I'd enjoy seeing what things you've made with it.