Here is a quick project that I would like to share, an entirely scratch-built turnout made to Proto:87 standards. I decided to do this partly as a learning exercise, and partly to see if this could be a way to re-energize my interest in P87 -- it would be a shame to leave my HO stuff sitting in a box forever more.
This was done entirely using PCB ties and ME Code 70 rail. I did not use my P87 track gauge (nowadays they are pretty much impossible to find), just to show it could be done without one. I used some ME Code 70 3-point gauges, a digital caliper to measure the important dimensions, and a machinist's 0.023" thickness gauge to set the flangeways. The Fast Tracks filing tool was handy for getting the angles filed on the rails, but not essential.
While this project is not intended to be a super-detailed turnout, I do have some ideas in that direction. But I first wanted to get something that would do basic, reliable operation.
I started by taking a scaled photocopy of a #8 prototype turnout, taping it to a flat plywood board, and putting the PCB ties into place w/double-sided tape.
I then cut the rail gaps in the copper cladding and filled the spaces with a UV-curing resin. This hopefully will disguise them better after the turnout is painted. I pre-tinned the places where the rail will be soldered, and filed them (mostly) flat. (Note the filings/dust -- glad I always use a lead-free solder!) Then I filed the point rails and soldered them together at the frog vee, making as fine/sharp a point as I could make (caveat - there is a bit of a round-over, making the rail too thin will just be weak and easily damaged). I then added the straight stock rail, followed by the diverging stock rail. At this point, the turnout looked like this:
Closer view of the frog area:
The next step is one of the most important. I bent the straight closure/wing rail to match the angle of the frog, and after some careful positioning and trimming, soldered it down into place. It is critical that the gauge side of the closure rail is in line with the point rail thru the straight route, and that the wing rail is parallel to the diverging frog rail AND at the correct distance from it (the flangeway width). In addition, the rail has to be trimmed to the correct length at the point end (I use hinged points) and at the end of the wing rail. The wing rail also need a taper filed into it so that approaching wheels will be guided properly into the flangeway.
At this point, the test truck passes thru easily and without any bumping (even without any guard rail in place):
This is followed by the other closure/wing rails, and then the guard rail. All dimensions need to be carefully checked with a caliper, and adjusted where needed before proceeding any further. The test truck should glide smoothly thru both routes.
With that done, I moved on to the points. I filed them in the Fast Tracks tool and trimmed to length. I use a half-rail joiner as a "heel block" to ensure that the point rail heels stay in alignment with their respective closure rail. You can't see it here, but I will be soldering a jumper wire to the bottom of each point rail, so as not to rely on the hinge for electrical continuity.
It's hard to see in the picture, but I like to file a slight round-over on the toe of each point rail, as well as a very gentle chamfer over the top for about 3/16" or so. This is to help the wheels glide smoothly on/off the point rails as they pass. Another subtlety is that I like to make a very small inward bend over the last 1/4" or so of the point rail toe. Then, I file away the inside (gauge side) of the point rail so that it forms a straight line with the rest of the point rail. This way, I avoid having a paper-thin rail web at the toe end of the point rail.
I use Z-scale PCB ties for the throwbars. These attach to the point rails with a small piece of 0.010" phosphor bronze wire, bent into a 90-degree angle and soldered to the point rail base and to the top of each throw bar. What I like about this is, it provides a small amount of flex so that the point rails and throwbars are not a completely rigid joint.
Time to remove the turnout from the board, attach it to some flex track, and run some test cars thru each route:
I think this turnout is easily as smooth or smoother than any other that I have ever built -- definitely a plus that comes with using proto-scale wheels. Next steps are to cut the frog rail gaps, attach feeders, and clean everything up. Then some paint and the rest of the ties and it should be good to install. 😉
Thanks for looking!
Ed
