Superglue substitute?

[NtheBasement]

I have become allergic to superglue, aka cyanoacrylate, which is bad because I use it a lot.  Looking for a substitute I found two possible candidates.  Wondering if anyone here has used them and specifically if they are low viscosity (soak into things quickly) like superglue.
E6000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X1SJPSZ
B-7000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0832ZP31H  Says its silcone based.
T-8000 https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Multi-Function-Multipurpose-Performance-Industrial/dp/B0B3RJMDD1/

Any other suggestions?

[Chris333]

Is it something that can be cured by wearing a mask?  Superglue is pretty unique.

[NtheBasement]

Nope, holding my breath and then leaving the room didn't work but it did help.  I don't think an N95 mask will filter out the volatiles.

[Chris333]

Loctite 408?

Still superglue, but low odor.

[peteski]

BSI (my choice for CA adhesives) also makes odorless CA glues: https://bsi-inc.com/hobby/super_gold.html
Many hobby shops carry the BSI line (sometimes  re-branded as a hobby store's brand, but the rest of the label is a dead giveaway that it is BSI).

[MK]

Look for ordorless or foam friendly CA glue.  People who develop CA allergy switch to it.  It is more expensive though.

There really is no substitute for CA.  Without it building R/C airplanes would be a b*tch!

[robert3985]

Although I use "normal" CA in various viscosities along with Accelerator to set it off quickly, I am now using J-B Weld "SuperWeld" UV activated CA for many of my model attachments that need to be strong and permanent.

It comes in an un-handy applicator that's opaque black (I assume UV blocking) plastic of some sort, with a small battery powered UV light source on the bottom, which is removable.

When using it, I remove the UV light by snapping it off of the main applicator, which will then stand on my workbench because it now has a flat bottom.

It is not as thick as "gap-filling" normal CA, but much thicker than watery CA, and doesn't soak in quickly to wood, paper or cardboard.

However, it IS exceedingly strong and in certain situations, I've used it to glue broken brass pieces back together and re-attach them to some of my brass engines, and it works very well for that.

Here's a link: https://www.jbweld.com/product/superweld-light-activated?srsltid=AfmBOor0FESBeQw7a9YxO3qpJ_S3K1EGhHK_Om0ENoKTu85ienkyanFT

I don't know if it has an odor or gives off fumes you might be allergic to because my nose doesn't work very well...but, you might give it a try.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Showme]

   While on the subject of super glue, has anyone had a problem with it failing after aging for years? My original N-Trak module I built in 1987 had a city theme. I used super glue to assemble the buildings, mostly Model Power, Faller, Con Cor models. I was noticing around 25 or so years later, pieces were falling off, corners coming apart, and picking up some of the buildings they would go to pieces. Since then, I only use super glue in emergencies and try to use epoxy, Plastruct glue, E-6000 (although I'm not sure if it will continue to react with the plastic of the model upon aging), or Alleen's.

Bob

[MK]

I have some old RC airplanes and boats.  Two boats are over 25 years old and no issues with CA.  No issues with the airplanes either though they are a little "younger".  They were built entirely with CA.

The only difference between you and me is all my models are wood.  No plastic.

I think for plastic the best glue is the solvent stuff where it slightly melts the plastic and fuses the parts together, like Tenax, Tamiya, Bondene, etc.

[MK]

Here's a link: https://www.jbweld.com/product/superweld-light-activated?srsltid=AfmBOor0FESBeQw7a9YxO3qpJ_S3K1EGhHK_Om0ENoKTu85ienkyanFT

That looks like private label Bondic.

[peteski]

That looks like private label Bondic.

The JB Weld glue Bob mentioned  is a true CA glue that behaves just like other CA glues, and also sets instantly when exposed to UV light.  Basically the UV light acts like CA accelerator liquid.

The "real" Bondic I tried was crap and it was not cyanoacrylate - it was just thick UV-cure resin like you can buy in arts/crafts stores. It has a very weak bond (as Bondic mentions: Not a Glue). Unfortunately JB Weld UV-cured CA has the usual CA odor (Bondic has a very mild chemical smell).

Here is a link to the webpage (with the tracking codes stripped): https://www.jbweld.com/product/superweld-light-activated
Here is a link to MSDS sheet: https://dynamix-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/jbweldcom/jbweldcom_784988975.pdf

When @Lemosteam mentioned this JB stuff couple of years ago, I tried to buy a tube, but none of the hardware stores (Big Box ones or even smaller stores) carried it. I ended up buying it on eBay.  Now I see it in Home Depot and Lowes.

[MK]

The JB Weld glue Bob mentioned  is a true CA glue that behaves just like other CA glues, and also sets instantly when exposed to UV light.  Basically the UV light acts like CA accelerator liquid.

Oh wow!  Need to get some and try it out.  This could be a game changer.  (I'm not allergic to CA fumes - knock on wood.)

Yeah, I've heard Bondic isn't that good.  The application process is a plus but not so much for the rest of it.

[wmcbride]

The JB Weld glue Bob mentioned  is a true CA glue that behaves just like other CA glues, and also sets instantly when exposed to UV light.  Basically the UV light acts like CA accelerator liquid.

The "real" Bondic I tried was crap and it was not cyanoacrylate - it was just thick UV-cure resin like you can buy in arts/crafts stores. It has a very weak bond (as Bondic mentions: Not a Glue). Unfortunately JB Weld UV-cured CA has the usual CA odor (Bondic has a very mild chemical smell).

Here is a link to the webpage (with the tracking codes stripped): https://www.jbweld.com/product/superweld-light-activated
Here is a link to MSDS sheet: https://dynamix-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/jbweldcom/jbweldcom_784988975.pdf

When @Lemosteam mentioned this JB stuff couple of years ago, I tried to buy a tube, but none of the hardware stores (Big Box ones or even smaller stores) carried it. I ended up buying it on eBay.  Now I see it in Home Depot and Lowes.

Not that I doubted Peteski (in anything!) but I checked online at my local Home Depot and there it was for $10.98!

[Lemosteam]

For a while there the JB Weld product had been dropped by all the major retailers as mentioned in another thread some time ago, not sure why. It appears to have returned which is good news.

FYI, inside that fancy squeeze tube is a tiny metal sneeze tube of the product, like the four pack size of CA you can buy at Harbor freight.

I found that it was better to take that out of the red tube because the metal tube never fully empties form squeezing the red tube, and by removing it you can roll up the crimp to obtain every last drop.

I also save the UV light to use when curing printer resin when filling holes, or repairing cracks and gouges and when using it as glue.

[peteski]

For a while there the JB Weld product had been dropped by all the major retailers as mentioned in another thread some time ago, not sure why. It appears to have returned which is good news.

FYI, inside that fancy squeeze tube is a tiny metal sneeze tube of the product, like the four pack size of CA you can buy at Harbor freight.

I found that it was better to take that out of the red tube because the metal tube never fully empties form squeezing the red tube, and by removing it you can roll up the crimp to obtain every last drop.

I also save the UV light to use when curing printer resin when filling holes, or repairing cracks and gouges and when using it as glue.

I also removed the large plastic "enclosure" and trimmed the large cap because like John mentioned, the smaller metal tube is much easier to control and to get most of the glue out.  It is a bit larger than the small tubes I bought in a HW store. The UV light has replaceable batteries (two CR2016).   The UV light sets the glue very fast (just like when using the liquid CA accelerator). The glue can get hot and even smoke.