East Norwood, OH in Z Scale

[Jesse6669]

Progress wiring the control panel has been made, but I'm now waiting for some replacement soldering iron tips to resume. 



It's always nice to see the panel lit up (testing).  The track occupancy will be golden, as will be the signal switch indications.  The signal indications on the model board will be red or green (multi-color LEDs).



I've also installed a plug on the side of the control panel to connect the main cab wires to the layout, with the idea that it can be removed to work on the wiring on the workbench.   I might just use battery packs to power the LEDs, and cycle rechargable AAs. it saves adding more wires to/from the panel.  I have some small 2x AA (3v) battery packs with switches, these can be installed inside the Control Panel. 

Plugs were also installed on the facia for the cabs (2), one by McCullough Yard, one further down on the Midland Sub.

[Jesse6669]

Although I have been distracted by the fun of modeling autoracks and some decals, I did get the critical control panel wiring completed.  The panel is essentially ready to hook up for layout cab control.  Leads to the layout for each block + wire will go from the white terminal strip (on the right).   I'm going to find a 4-conductor plug/wire set to connect so the panel can be easily removed for work on the workbench.

The remaining switches and LEDs are for signals only, which are "tower operator controlled" and not interfaced with the cabs/rails or detection--so to run trains wiring these isn't necessary right now. 

You can see I opted for a small 3V battery pack, which only powers the panel LEDs and probably will also power the signal LEDs.  This is just easier than hooking up to an AC adapter.  It also has a plug so it can be removed to replace the batteries easily.
I know it's a bit of a mess of wires but this is the biggest electrical project I've done (ever?) so as long as it works I will be happy.  Neatness is secondary!

[Jesse6669]

While waiting for some wiring supplies to connect the control panel/model board to the layout wiring, I decided to finish up wiring some exterior lighting on the Norwood locomotive shop building. 

I wanted a wiring system that would allow the building to be removed from the layout and also let the roof be removed to display the interior.  So I wanted some kind of compact plug system, that would be somewhat discreet.  I had some 1mm brass tube I was using for the CPL signal tests, and by chance discovered that a 5mm LED lead fits into it like a plug.  The brass tubes (one for the positive leads, and one for the negative) were then inserted into holes in the corner of the engine house foundation.   These would look somewhat like interior downspouts from gutters.


I cut them so they went a couple mm lower than the roof line, and down to the underside of the benchwork extending a couple mm.  Then I fixed the tube to a terminal strip to attach to a lead underneath the layout;  I then connected a lead (with resistors for the positive tested to make the lighting low enough to be realistic). 


The leads from the micro-LEDs (0201 warm white) were then ganged together and soldered to the pin.  The pins just plug into the top of the brass tube, with a little play in the wire.


The light fixtures on the exterior were 3D printed by the way, to fit the 0201 LEDs, based upon prototype pics.  I also made decals of the signage.  The decals were applied to .25mm styrene.


Here's how it looks with the signage, etc.


And lit up:


This was my first time wiring with "magnet wire" and was a good warm up for some of the work that will be needed for the CPL signals.  One note is that the lacquer coating on the wire was surprisingly hard to remove.  I thought I could just burn it off--but that left some kind of residue on the wire that didn't let the solder flow on well to tin them.  So, sanding the wire was the best way I found.

I'm debating putting a switch on the fascia for the lights.  Or possibly just a switch under the layout.. I have a 3v AC adapter and I think I might hook it up to the layout to a terminal strip, then use that for the LED lighting for the engine house, or other structure lighting, or possibly even for the signals.

I also tested a fascia piece made using thin styrene painted green.  It would just glue onto the front of the frame, and will extend slightly above the layout to allow it to be cut down to variation in the scenery base, although most of the layout is basically flat.  It would be trimmed to the bottom of the layout frame as well.




 

 

 


 

[Tad_T]

You do nice work, sir.

[Rivet Miscounter]

The layout is really coming along nicely.  I love the lighting on the engine house.   The housings you made are perfect.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

This would be really nice stuff if it were twice the size. In Z? This is INCREDIBLE.

[Lemosteam]

Jesse, I have some SUPER fine magnet wire that I use for projects.  Th trick the @peteski taught me to remove the lacquer coating on the wire is this.  Dip the wire into your flux.  float the tip of your iron with a ball of solder.  Push the end of the wire into the solder blob- it will burn off the lacquer and tin the wire inside at the same time.  The blob of solder will eventually become contaminated, just tap it off and add a new blob.

This works really well for when I have to wire my own 0201 or 0402 LEDs.  I can trim off the excess wire to leave a tiny bit of exposed wire for the LED solder pads.

This layout work is coming along awesome.  Cant wait to see all your one-off Z Scale rolling stock designs on it.

[peteski]

Yes, that trick makes using magnet wire much easier. Using flux is important.  If you have a temperature controlled iron, crank the temperature to 800 deg. F.

I also  like using SMD resistors instead the standard resistors with leads. SMD resistors are easier to hide. Magnet wire can be soldered directly to their metalized ends. Resistors can be glued to the walls and painted over.

[Jesse6669]

Thanks guys, will try these tips!

[Jesse6669]

The control panel / model board has been wired to the layout!  The cables can be disconnected, and the panel removed if needed.  I still need to do "live" testing of the block power, so cross your fingers! 



The top cable is the cab A and B + from the layout, the bottom are block 1-4 + wires going to the layout.

[Jesse6669]

We have the powah..!   

I wired up the control panel to the layout and whilst crossing fingers gave it a test.. voila!  Block power works, from both cabs, in all blocks.  It's really a small layout but thinking about how the panel works it's set up so the Tower operator in East Norwood can give authority to one of two trains (cab) for any of the blocks (1-4), pretty much a I envisioned--even though it's just going to be one operator for 99% of the time. 

I did find the test loco's (an AZL SD60M) wheels were dirty.  A spin on a Rokhuan wheel cleaner worked wonders--and I really should clean the track as well but the test was sufficient.  Soon I'll be painting track so the cleaning would be a waste of time.

The facia and plugged in cab "B".


The mess underneath.   It's not too bad, I reckon.  At top right you can see the underside of the engine house lighting leads, and my el-cheapo L bracket supports for the modules.


The cab "A" plug by the Midland Sub.

[Jesse6669]

I finished up the fascia--it's just a veneer of plastic that'll be cut down to the level of the scenery.  I am not 100% thrilled with the plastic but it'll do.. it's just fascia.   I also picked up some SPST switches for the structure lighting, a "squealer" and other accessories, and for a "kill switch" for one of the engine house tracks so I can just park locos there "idling" while still hostling elsewhere in the block.
 
With the block wiring done, the next big project will be track painting and ballast.  Before committing to the layout track, I'm going to do some more testing of ballast and painting/weathering.  For example, I'm screening some of the grout sand to get rid of the really fine particles since on my other tests it just looks too fine, I think..  I ordered some Arizona N scale ballast as well to compare and possibly blend with the grout.   My theory is a blend of the Arizona and grout sand might work well, using more sand for the yards where drainage is less of a priority and ballast turns to mud and engine oil, less of it for the main line (the B&O/CSX Midland Sub).  In any case I don't intend to rush this because it's tough to re-do ballast and I'd like it to be right.



 

[Lemosteam]

Be sure to screen the ARM ballast too. Lots of fine powder in it and maybe even metal shavings.

[Jesse6669]

I made (3D printed) a pair of holsters for the hand-held DC controllers I'm using.  The one for cab B (plug by McCullough Yard) has an I&O logo on it.  The one for cab A (plug by the Midland Sub) has B&O/Chessie and NS logos on it.  I also added the first of many switches to control accessories like lighting and for the Sand Track. 





I also did some additional tests of track paint.  I used Vallejo flat earth brushed on (I'll airbrush the layout track--except around switch points); The track on the far right-hand side has most ties painted with AK Interactive marker Tire Black (001) representing newer ties.  For the yards/sidings or older track I used some grey marker on a few ties and not paint the ties black, like on the center/left.  Ballast was a grout sand mix which I screened with a 200 mesh screen to remove fines.  After wetting with a mist of ISO alcohol, and fixing with WS Scenery Cement, I gave them some powdered dark grey weathering chalk mostly in the middle.   I think it looks pretty good.

[Jesse6669]

Just a quick update, nothing very dramatic to report but I have been testing my track work to ensure everything worked properly and smoothly before painting and ballasting.  I received a shipment of ballast from Arizona Rock & Mineral to test for the mainline ballast on Friday so should have some more test track in the next few days.   

Once the track is painted, I'll start working on the backdrops and rear scenes. 

I did some design work on the Zumbiel Packaging structure, which will be a "3D flat".  It'll be deep enough for an inside loading dock (which isn't strictly prototypical where I'm putting it, but gives me another siding to switch). I think this is going to be pretty neat if my plan works out.  Zumbiel is a curtain-wall structure so I designed a 3D printed "frame" which would essentially be the concrete "frame" sections, and recessed areas for printed brick stock from Archistories, and possibly etched windows (although I'm also testing 3D printing them), to be inserted into the sections.  The wall sections can then be joined to make it as long as wanted, with corner pieces to allow for corners of various angles.