East Norwood, OH in Z Scale

[Chris333]

Ah  Earth Explorer knew right where it was... Here is 1949

[Jesse6669]

I received the benchwork from TTrak by Denniston (Stuart Denniston) and it looks absolutely fantastic!  Boxed up it was amazingly compact, and the packaging was bullet-proof.  This was the inner packaging (there was another box containing this with shipping labels, etc):       

 

Here are the modules laid on the floor.  This was exactly to spec, and excellent woodworking/craftsmanship.  I couldn't have done anything nearly as good.  There are also background boards for backdrops.



I'm waiting on my power tools to facilitate proper installation, which should be here within a week or so.   My plan is to add shelf brackets to the wall (at the studs), and secure the modules together semi-permanently resting on the brackets.  Anyone have tips for joining the modules toether?  I'm thinking 3-4 lag bolts with wing nuts?  Would clamps (eg 3 small C-clamps) be sufficient?   Some combination?   

I have also been working on the basic 3D design for GK tower (East Norwood B&O).  I haven't had any luck getting actual dimensional drawings so went from a combination of photographs plus data from B&O drawings of the Midland City, Ohio depot (also on the B&O SW), which was likely constructed at about the same time, and the B&O standard tower design.  All of this was found on the web.  From what I  can discern, it seems the tower section was added to an older one-story depot at some point in the early 1900s.  Basically they grafted a B&O Standard tower design on the depot but modified it to an "L" shape.  I did reach out to the B&O RR HS to see if they have anything in their archives on this tower.  I also will do the depot before the eaves/roof were trimmed (sometime late 70's) just because it's more aesthetically pleasing--and I can now run earlier prototypes (B&O, Chessie, PRR, PC) with conviction  .  Of course the real tower burned down so it'll be a "ghost tower" when I run anything post 90's. 

 

Of course the finished design will have far more detail and I'll post that as it comes along. 

[Lemosteam]

With respect to bolting the modules together, I would do four things.

-Buy a set of proper brad point woodworking drill bits in 1/64th increments they will outlive you and you will use them forever.https://www.rockler.com/25-piece-hss-brad-point-drill-bit-set-imperial

-DO NOT attempt to measure location and drill the ends separately.  Instead clamp them together perfectly and drill through both modules as square as you can, using a bit diameter that is 1/64th, or for a tighter fit, 1/32nd undersize of the bolt shank you plan use.

--If you can, find bolts with shank lengths that are just shy of the two end plate thicknesses, and use thick fender washers (larger OD for better clamp load) under the bolt head and the mating nylon insert (thread locking insert) or prevailing torque nut (thread locking head upset, sometimes three flats crushed into the top of the nut).  These will prevent loosening from vibration.

-Buy some brass tabletop alignment pins, two per joint https://www.rockler.com/table-pins-choose-type,  spread their location as far apart as you can, use the recommended drill size and again drill through both ends at the same time, and install the pins in opposing directions.

This will ensure a lifetime of alignment and realignment.

Just my thoughts.

[NorthWestGN]

Modules look great Jesse. I see you've designed the Yard Tower, interesting structure, 3D printing then add the roof supports?

Brent

[Chris333]

Does Denniston have a website or do you just contact and he makes custom stuff?

[Jesse6669]

Does Denniston have a website or do you just contact and he makes custom stuff?

Mine was all custom but the name implies he does TTrak modules to their spec. 

He has a domain set up but no website, yet.   

I contacted him via email at: dennind@gmail.com   He has ttrakbydenniston@gmail.com registered, worth a shot as he should have email forwarding.
Here's the website: ttrakbydenniston.com

[Jesse6669]

Modules look great Jesse. I see you've designed the Yard Tower, interesting structure, 3D printing then add the roof supports?

Brent

Thanks!  It's the tower at the junction of the B&OSW Mainline and PRR/CL&N. 

The final model will be entirely 3D printed if I have my druthers.  I've done far smaller in T-scale! 

[Jesse6669]

Attaching the modules to the wall is the question of the moment...  these need to be open underneath because part of the wall is my workbench (the 6" deep x 6-foot run of the B&O Mainline).

I'm going to use brass pins and bolts to secure the modules together, but they all need to be secured to the wall.  Keeping in mind the long runs are only 6" deep, and the widest point (McCullough Yard) is only 12", I'm trying to decide whether to:

• A. Attach the modules directly to the wall to studs and additionally to drywall anchors.
• B. Add shelf supports at the studs and between using drywall anchors so there are at least 2 supports per unit.  Then place the modules on the shelf supports and level as needed.
• C. Add actual shelves to the supports, then the modules on the shelves.
• D. Some other solution.. clips of some sort anchored to the wall?  Magnetic levitation?  Suspend from ceiling?

Option A. seems likely to be troublesome to hang/unhang if I want to transport the modules, and difficult to secure and level initially  The weight of the yard might be a problem.  But no additional hardware needed--just screw to the studs. 

Option B. is my default.  I am looking at brackets like these.  Making sure they are all aligned and level will be a trick--no matter what I do I can still foresee leveling of some kind.  Fortunately, each corner of the modules is built with a leveling screw.  I could ensure a bracket is aligned with each corner section to employ the leveling screws. 

Option C. would put more weight on the brackets than just the layouts, and cost more (wood).

Option D.. Am I missing something obvious?  Any other ideas or suggestions?


 

[dem34]

Since they are just modules. IMHO just doing shelves is probably a better solution.  That way if you also want to change things up its just a case of pulling and replacing modules instead of trying to redo a whole carpentry job.

[dieselfan1]

Following

[Slim Rail Mike]

Look closer at option C. It may be easier to level the modules with their corner adjusters, if they were against the solid surface of a shelf. You may be able to offset the cost of the wood by using fewer brackets.

[Jesse6669]

While I collect supplies to do the module installation, the GK Tower design is nearing completion.  It still needs some details like chimneys (smoke jacks), TO board, downspouts.  It's hard to tell where the downspouts ran with those Yankee gutters, pics are hard to come by.  But the model will be "good enough".  It's basically designed to represent the structure as it was in the mid-70's, but I'll play with the time machine and run 2000's era I&O and CSX trains as well as PRR/B&O/Chessie/N&W..etc.   
The model is intended to 3D print in Z scale so keep in mind the footprint is only about 2.5x2 inches; The roof sections will be detachable for printing and to allow some interior detail and lighting to be added if desired.  I will 3D print clear window inserts with the muntins on them.  Painting will probably be done using a trick I figured out on another project--The trim is so tiny with these small-scale buildings that masking is difficult.  So, paint the entire model the color of the windows/doors/trim using a "hard" gloss lacquer paint (probably dark brown rattle can), mask some large items like doors, then paint over with siding color (buff) acrylic paint.  Then use a toothpick/small brush wetted with acrylic thinner to clean off the paint from the window frames/trim.   

 

Prototype: 




 

[Jesse6669]

Progress!  I have the shelf brackets in place and test installed the modules to check height, etc.  They are connected with 1/4" bolts semi-permanently as I might take the layout for display at some point.   



The next step will be the backboard/backdrops, giving everything a coat of polyurethane to prevent moisture from causing warping, etc., and then the sub-roadbed.  The backboards were included with the modules (!) and will need to be screwed in place;  I'm then going to add a thin styrene backdrop onto the boards, adding a smooth curve for the corner.

For the scenery base--sub-roadbed I'm planning to use 1/2" Gatorfoam.   This will give me about 10 feet of elevation below track level down to the module top.  Most of the topography on the layout is actually above the track, except the area to the east/south of McCullough Yard.  Highland Ave and Beech St. cross the tracks at about 643 ft elevation, and descend about 10 feet in the modeled area on Beech St.and Highland Ave.  So the roads will transition down to the top of the module in those two areas.  Otherwise, all the scenery is above the foam, for example the retaining wall from Zumbeil west behind the Midland Sub rises up about 10 feet.

Here's a screen grab from a handy website I found that allows you to plot elevation at a point on Google Maps, and along a line (note the blue line on Highland Ave, roughly the area to be modeled): 

   

And here's the track plan with elevations noted.  One concession to the prototype is the track on the module will all be basically level with no grades;  On the prototype the McCullough Yard is about 26 feet higher than GK Tower.  It's just much simpler to keep everything at one elevation (although a run-away from McCullough would be interesting modeling).   
 

I'm planning on making a couple non-track sections removable to work on structures and scenery at the workbench--like GK, Rumpke/Weir Frog.  I'm contemplating how to pull this off;  Thinking tack/clamp the foam in place, lay out the track areas, then cut around the track at these areas; Glue the gatorfoam sub roadbed in place, leaving the sections to be removed unglued.  The track roadbed itself will be 1/16" cork.  And once installed I'm going to seal everything (roadbed/subroadbed) with Varithane to prevent issues with moisture down the line.   

One final note:  The new 3D printer was received so I will be calibrating and testing it before any major print projects. 

[SAH]

Cool project.  I spent 10 years in Cincinnati.  Lived in the Oakley/Hyde Park neighborhoods, not far from where tower was (long gone by then).  The B&O was a shadow of its former self but still a cool place to poke around.

[Jesse6669]

Lived in the Oakley/Hyde Park neighborhoods, not far from where tower was (long gone by then).  The B&O was a shadow of its former self but still a cool place to poke around.

 

Indeed, that's the inspiration of the layout.  I don't know how long ago you were there but Oakley isn't anything like it was 10 years ago.. the old B&O station was razed, there are hordes of new apartments and a shopping center across the tracks where Milacron had their plant.  Oakley is a "trendy" neighborhood.  I&O is actually very busy using Oakley Yard.  Norwood isn't too different although they razed the old "Quality Inn" hotel on Montgomery (oh AND Zumbeil Packaging is gone!).