Author Topic: Latest conversion: Old Kato/Atlas N scale RS-3 to ESU LokSound  (Read 519 times)

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GGNInNScale

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Latest conversion: Old Kato/Atlas N scale RS-3 to ESU LokSound
« on: September 08, 2024, 02:15:21 PM »
+4
Here is my latest conversion: Old n scale Kato/Atlas RS-3 converted from TCS CP-GN to ESU LokSound. I milled the frame with a Dremel milling bit in my drill press. Both ends are relieved. I drilled 4 holes and tapped 1-72 threads for power pickup from the frame sides. I soldered wires to the brush caps and relieved the frame (just visible in the pictures) to run the wires to the top opening. The brush area and motor were wrapped with Kapton to prevent shorts. I used an OWS 8x12mm speaker on one of my resin printed backcases. The pictures are up to the point of adding the LEDs. I used the teal wire as a "positive" feed with the normal blue common wire- easier to wire the LEDs. I will put 0402 white LEDs with a 2.2kOhm SMD resistor in parallel at each end.

After milling and grinding a groove for the motor wire:
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Assembled the frame sides:
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TOP VIEW:
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Added the speaker and tested:
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Full assembly, waiting for the LEDs:
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« Last Edit: September 08, 2024, 02:17:07 PM by GGNInNScale »

PiperguyUMD

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Re: Latest conversion: Old Kato/Atlas N scale RS-3 to ESU LokSound
« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2024, 09:13:48 AM »
+1
Looks familiar! What LEDs are you using?




GGNInNScale

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Re: Latest conversion: Old Kato/Atlas N scale RS-3 to ESU LokSound
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2024, 03:33:09 PM »
0
Hi   I use 0402 LEDs from Tayda electronics, or any source on ebay.  Really cheap, lots of colors.  I have used 0201 LEDs for signal bridges and lights on buildings.  They are really small...!!
I use SMD resistors, 2.2kOhm or 3.3kOhm in series to limit the current, plenty bright.  I have a method for soldering the LED to the resistor on double sided tape.  Once the joint is made between the resistor and LED, it is pretty rugged.  Then, I test the polarity of the piece with a DVM on diode mode.  This identifies the "+" end for the blue wire- solder joint.  Then solder the yellow or white to the "-" contact.  I usually remove wires that I do not use by unsoldering from the PCB.  I also double up the blue wire with one of the discarded wires to make it easier for routing in the shell.
Just noticed- you may want to pull off the plastic tube shield from the decoder and use Kapton tape on the frame to protect against shorts.  It gives you a millimeter or two extra clearance.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2024, 03:37:41 PM by GGNInNScale »

GGNInNScale

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Re: Latest conversion: Old Kato/Atlas N scale RS-3 to ESU LokSound
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2024, 01:06:12 PM »
+1
And here is the rest of the conversion:
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