Author Topic: New brass Milwaukee Bipolar EP-2 clinic- part 2  (Read 46796 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

u18b

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 3509
  • Respect: +1776
    • My website
Re: New brass Milwaukee Bipolar EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #450 on: Yesterday at 05:27:23 PM »
+1
Having successfully done one Cab, now time to repeat the whole process for the other Cab…. And that’s where I ran into a problem.

The adapter plates went beautifully as before.   The problem came when I tried to place the shell on the mechanism.  There was an obstruction.  What?!

There is a cut out area in the shell for the door to the Cab.    Space is already tighter on that side.





Well, because these brass shells are assembled by real people in Japan and not a machine, there are variances.  It was a coincidence that I did not have a problem with the first shell.   But the second shell was different enough that the door area could not get past the screws- even with thinning the screw heads.

So I used a motor tool to thin the wall of the door area as much as I dared.




Then, I used screws with smaller heads, and I shaved their heads thinner too.  It still was obstructed.


Bottom line, I had to move the end-most screw toward the outside.  It finally worked and I could get the shell on.

This is what the non-door side looks like.



This is the tough one where I relocated the screw.  I got the shell on- but now I have an ugly hole- ugh!  Very non-professional looking.



I couldn’t stand it, so I drilled the hole slightly larger and soldered a piece of 1/16th  brass rod in there to fill the hole.



Now all is fine.

I need to now re-draw my template to move screws more to the outside.
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 05:29:55 PM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 3509
  • Respect: +1776
    • My website
Re: New brass Milwaukee Bipolar EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #451 on: Yesterday at 11:57:02 PM »
+1

The end result is that I have made the original 22 mil excess play a more tolerable 10 mil. The intended gear mesh is more closely retained and there is now almost ZERO chance of gears ratcheting past one another.

Now that this gap has been reduced, I’ll experiment going back to Delryn main drive gears.




There’s a few loose ends to talk about.

On the down side, these plates make assembly and disassembly a bit more tedious (but not much).

In order to remove the power truck, I have to remove the plates.   Also, the plates are now proprietary instead of universal.   So I marked each one so I could keep track of which goes where.



Will this work for other Kumata locos?  (All Kumata locomotives use this gearbox except the Centipede)

Sure…. But there is one caveat.

There is no problem for the EP-2 because each EP-2 cab has only one gear box and it is charged the same as the shell.   But other Kumata locos have two gearboxes- and each is charged to a different rail. 

In this photo, the left gearbox is charged to the rest of the frame.  The right gearbox is insulated and would short on the frame.



So if we made this mod to another KMT loco (like the RS-2 in the photo above) since the frame is charged, that means the insulated gearbox is now a greater  shorting risk with the shell because we have added thickness to the gearbox. 

If this will work at all, the solution will probably be to use nylon M1.4 screws on the insulated gearbox (assuming they will fit) and/or Kapton tape.

« Last Edit: Today at 12:01:43 AM by u18b »
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.

u18b

  • Crew
  • *
  • Posts: 3509
  • Respect: +1776
    • My website
Re: New brass Milwaukee Bipolar EP-2 clinic- part 2
« Reply #452 on: Today at 12:05:53 AM »
+1
Here is another issue.   Zamac can rot.   For Kumata locos, this was especially bad for the Alcos (never buy a Kumata Alco off ebay without good photos of trucks and gearboxes!). 

I’m obviously worried about how these EP-2s will fair over the years (I have at least two).

Well, this plate I just developed provides insurance.   I already made molds of gearboxes and have cast replacements.  Here is an alloy casting.   The problem is that the metal is a bit soft for normal wear and tear.  But with a plate screwed to the side of it, the headless screw will now ride on tougher brass or phosphor bronze




In fact (for the EP-2) the gearbox does not even need to be metal anymore.   Here is a casting with Allumilite.   If a pair of these plates were added to the side, then I would just need to make a jumper wire to send power to the frame.




This would have been a great solution for the KMT Centipede re-design I did on this board years ago.   I wish I had thought of it back then.

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=36138.0







So I confess, I’m really excited I figured this out.

I’ve said many times- Kumata locomotives have a very poor reputation in N scale.   But if you know what to do with them, they can be great pieces.
Ron Bearden
CSX N scale Archivist
http://u18b.com

"All get what they want-- not all like what they get."  Aslan the Lion in the Chronicles of Narnia by C.S.Lewis.