Author Topic: Issues with Scalecoat paint  (Read 702 times)

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ridinshotgun

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Issues with Scalecoat paint
« on: August 06, 2023, 09:56:16 PM »
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So has anyone had any issues with scalecoat paint out of their spray bombs?  I have a nscalekits flat cat kit that I hit with a TTX spray bomb on Friday with a light and it is still tacky today.  Kind of worried I am going to have to strip it and restart with some krylon yellow.

Anyone stripped scalecoat before?  I guess that lacquer thinner will remove it without damaging the kit?

nickelplate759

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2023, 10:06:30 PM »
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So has anyone had any issues with scalecoat paint out of their spray bombs?  I have a nscalekits flat cat kit that I hit with a TTX spray bomb on Friday with a light and it is still tacky today.  Kind of worried I am going to have to strip it and restart with some krylon yellow.

Anyone stripped scalecoat before?  I guess that lacquer thinner will remove it without damaging the kit?

I no longer have any, but the last time I used a Scalecoat II spray bomb (about 2 years ago) it did take several days to properly dry - much slower than acrylics or many other spray lacquers.
George
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I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.

nkalanaga

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2023, 12:36:43 AM »
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Scalecoat has always taken up to a week to completely dry for me.  It did in the 70s when I brush-painted it, and does now (and for the last 20 years) with the spray cans.  I put it in the corner of my closet for a week or so between coats and it works fine.  Once it's dry it settles into a nice, thin coat, quite durable.

But it really is old-school paint, and takes time to dry, unlike the modern stuff.
N Kalanaga
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Angus Shops

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #3 on: August 07, 2023, 02:41:03 AM »
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Yup, it takes forever to dry. More importantly, where did you find it? I thought it was long gone…

ridinshotgun

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #4 on: August 07, 2023, 09:40:19 AM »
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Yup, it takes forever to dry. More importantly, where did you find it? I thought it was long gone…

Had it since just before they did their disappearing magic trick!  I think it may have been one of the last Timonium shows they attended pre-covid.

nkalanaga

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2023, 02:04:31 AM »
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"much slower than acrylics or many other spray lacquers."

Part of the difference could be that Scalecoat is/was an enamel, not a lacquer.  It cures rather than just drying.  On metal, it can be baked on, making it even more durable.
N Kalanaga
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peteski

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2023, 10:01:07 AM »
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Yes, organic solvent based (alkyd not acrylic?) enamels, so yes, they take long time to fully harden.  But also I don't t hink the surface should remain tacky that long. The surface should be dry to the touch in few hours (maybe a day), and yet soft where you can easily press a fingernail into it).  To me something doesn't seem right.

And yes, if the painted object is metal then lacquer thinner can easily remove the uncured paint.
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ridinshotgun

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #7 on: August 08, 2023, 09:09:31 PM »
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Yes, organic solvent based (alkyd not acrylic?) enamels, so yes, they take long time to fully harden.  But also I don't t hink the surface should remain tacky that long. The surface should be dry to the touch in few hours (maybe a day), and yet soft where you can easily press a fingernail into it).  To me something doesn't seem right.

And yes, if the painted object is metal then lacquer thinner can easily remove the uncured paint.

Well today was the first day it didn't have any tack. So it dried but man that is five days to lose all tack and it still probably needs two more coats.  Well maybe I have this kit done before I retire in few years!

I think I'll go with the Krylon next time to speed things up.

peteski

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #8 on: August 08, 2023, 09:40:39 PM »
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That is a long time.  I also want to  mention that  I never used their spray cans, I only use the paint in glass jars. Either brush paint, or thin it and shoot it through an airbrush.
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ridinshotgun

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #9 on: August 08, 2023, 09:50:15 PM »
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You know funny thing I also shot some etched brass grade crossings at the same time with their flat back from a spray bomb.  It dried in like 2 days.

I think I will strip this car and start from scratch.  Not really pleased with how the color laid down.  Not sure if it is due to needing more coats but came out much lighter than the color card I sprayed with the can when I got it.

peteski

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #10 on: August 08, 2023, 11:14:09 PM »
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You know funny thing I also shot some etched brass grade crossings at the same time with their flat back from a spray bomb.  It dried in like 2 days.

I think I will strip this car and start from scratch.  Not really pleased with how the color laid down.  Not sure if it is due to needing more coats but came out much lighter than the color card I sprayed with the can when I got it.

Maybe you just didn't shake the can long and vigorous enough before spraying?
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ridinshotgun

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2023, 11:21:40 PM »
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No it was well shaken several times.  Once when it came out of my paint drawer, again when I took it to the shop and again before it was sprayed.  Black actually had only one vigorous shake up right before spraying.  now I need to find a small tub to soak it in.

robert3985

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Re: Issues with Scalecoat paint
« Reply #12 on: August 21, 2023, 02:49:53 PM »
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Although I've never used any Scalecoat rattle can, my bottled Scalecoat II works on both plastic and brass. 

On brass, I don't use a primer for any application from my airbrush, including UP Armour Yellow on my cabooses & diesels and it adheres completely and is very durable after I bake it in my toaster oven at between 165F and 180F for about 45 minutes.  Best brass paint I've used over the last 35+ years and I'm really pissed that it's now unavailable.

On plastic, I use a grey primer to make the plastic opaque.  I let it dry for two days between coats, and in the Summer, I'll set the model outside in the shade on my porch so the heat of the day will assist in its curing...and Summer temps here are usually between 85F and 100F in mid day.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore