Weekend Update 7/23/23

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Been doing some landscaping on the return loop, but while waiting for the sculptamold to dry (does it take days for everyone else??), I started cleaning out the yard in preparation for some more construction and landscaping around it.

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I also realized I've got a problem. I outgrew the box I was storing my Conrail power in. Good thing Ikea makes em in many sizes!

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[nickelplate759]

Here's another Amtrak Phase 1  coach - #4407.
This was an ex-UP Pullman-Standard coach.
It's a Kato coach, Tru-Color Platinum Mist paint,   Fusion Scale Graphics striping, Microscale lettering ("Amtrak" and numbers).
Tamiya semi-gloss overspray.   The Platinum Mist paint on the model doesn't look so silvery (or grainy) in real life as it does in the photo below.

One error - the trucks are wrong for this car in Amtrak service.   When the Kato parts store reopens I'll replace them.
[update - found a set of trucks in my parts box, but they need painting..next weekend!]

Here's the model:



Here's the original:

[spr1955]

I also realized I've got a problem. I outgrew the box I was storing my Conrail power in. Good thing Ikea makes em in many sizes!

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I like these a lot, wheels too! They fit under the railroad nicely.

[ednadolski]

@Ed Kapuscinski has generously sent me several samples of the sanded grout which he uses for N-scale ballast (thanks Ed!), as I was interested in trying this out as a possible alternative to Smith+Son ballasts as well as several (most?) other brands of commercial stone ballasts which lately have become difficult or impossible to obtain.  So here is the first sample track that I have put together, using Ed's "Ballast Mix" colors combo as detailed here: https://conrail1285.com/n-scale-ballast-using-sanded-grout/.

On thing I've done here that is a little different is to sift/screen the grout to several grades. I started with a #40 screen to get rid of anything oversized or chunked together.   What's in the pics here (on the left half) is from the #60 screen, and then from the #80 screen (on the right half).  To my eye, the #80 size is good if you want a really close-to-scale look for a mainline (helpful to make your models look more full-sized in closeup pics).  The #60 is easier to see the granularity in-person (and for that case the #80 would make a good branch line size contrast).

The screening is a bit time-consuming, and it actually turns out that the majority (like 75% or more) of the sanded grout is fine/powdery enough to pass thru the #80 screen and even a #120 screen, so at that point is it almost like a dust.  That's pretty high for an unused portion (some of that still could be used for roads, scenery, etc.), but I wanted to be sure to keep the grain size in a specific range.  Anyways, I've found that similar sifting is needed even for the S+S, AZRM, SE, Highball, and others (tho they don't have as much fine/powery/dust).

So here are the results.  This was applied using standard ballasting methods.  Of note, I think the grout tends to discolor/darken less than most commercial MRR ballasts that I have used.






For comparison, here is a sample of the Smith+Son (now defunct/unobtainable) in a couple of colors and similarly graded.  The Penn+Ohio on the rightmost sample is #60, and the rest are #80.



Overall I think the sanded grout looks pretty comparable. I think this is encouraging, even in light of the initial cost of having to buy several colors in 25 lb. bags each just to get started.  You do get to mix them to match the ballast color that you really want.

Ed

[Scottl]

Overall I think the sanded grout looks pretty comparable. I think this is encouraging, even in light of the initial cost of having to buy several colors in 25 lb. bags each just to get started.  You do get to mix them to match the ballast color that you really want.

Ed

I've found you can buy small amounts from ReStore shops, and even ~1 lb containers of sanded grout from places like Home Depot.  No need for 25 lb sacks.

[Chris333]

but while waiting for the sculptamold to dry (does it take days for everyone else??)

Get a little clip on fan (or a big one). I keep a fan on all my scenery while it dries. Cause ain't nobody got time for that.

[altohorn25]

Progress on the sleeper......1" decals stripes in N scale suck......

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[ednadolski]

... even ~1 lb containers of sanded grout from places like Home Depot.

Interesting, is that the unmixed? I quick-checked online and it looks like that comes in the plastic containers.  That made me think it was the pre-mixed, but looking closer it doesn't actually say that on the label (like some others do).

Ed

Edit: actually that does look like unmixed. but the HD price for 1lb is $6, whereas the Lowes price for a 25lb sack is like $17 (different brand).

[Scottl]

Interesting, is that the unmixed? I quick-checked online and it looks like that comes in the plastic containers.  That made me think it was the pre-mixed, but looking closer it doesn't actually say that on the label (like some others do).

Ed

Edit: actually that does look like unmixed. but the HD price for 1lb is $6, whereas the Lowes price for a 25lb sack is like $17 (different brand).

1 lb goes a long ways, especially if you mix a few colors.  Still, it is cheap no matter what size you buy compared to other layout materials.

[John]

Been doing some landscaping on the return loop, but while waiting for the sculptamold to dry (does it take days for everyone else??), I started cleaning out the yard in preparation for some more construction and landscaping around it.

Get a small fan and and force evaporation to increase - it will dry overnight in many cases .. at least the top layer .. 

Talk about the switch machine thingys

[ednadolski]

1 lb goes a long ways, especially if you mix a few colors.  Still, it is cheap no matter what size you buy compared to other layout materials.

Could be, tho unless you want really small grains, anything smaller than the #80 screen (say 20-25% or less of whatever amount you buy) will probably be too small to use as track ballast. With the #60 there is even less, like perhaps maybe 5% (I'd have to weigh to get better numbers).

Of course, it's entirely subjective as to how small a grain size is usable/acceptable, so that all is JMHO. On my old Loop layout, I used the (unscreened) N-scale AZRM ballast, and always thought that it seemed a little too small for a mainline.

Ed

[mu26aeh]

No modeling for me, but worked Mainline both days this weekend and helped plenty of other people with their modeling. If I hear anyone saying the hobby is dying, I'm going to call you a liar.  Slammed both days and really odd for a Sunday to be that busy

[TrainCat2]

So Wed, Thurs and Fri evenings I began cutting out the pieces for the first Liberty Ship. Ran into a few snags as the plastic sheet is too hard to grip and cut multiple passes. The cutter lost registration when it homes over the 24in length. So only one pass will have to do. I switched from .020 to .040 for the deck as the thicker sheet has more bond area for the sides and did not flex like the .020. I found that I could trace the cut from the cutter with 1 pass of a knife and then snap out the parts.  For the .060 bulkheads, I did not like band sawing them so 2-3 passes with the knife and snap. The slots in the keel and bulkheads were done on a bandsaw. The .080 base did require 4 passes before I could get a clean snap.





The hull sides were .020 sheet. All of the deck structures were cut from .030 sheet and glued together. I will be making a brass detail set for doors, hatches, ladders, railings, etc. Other ships will get a different design so I can have the cargo hatches open.

[Mike Madonna]

Hi Mike,

As I said in one of my posts today, if you can get your hands on an American Limited core kit, I think those are better quality than the new core kit being put out by Union Station Products (injection molded vs. 3D printed).

I've used Union Station Products sides for quite a few years now.  I really like the fact that you can get pretty much any car you can possibly want for whatever railroad you want.  They do a very nice job of giving you the background info with each set of sides so you know what trains each car ran on.  They also include with the shipment hard copies of whatever builders info they have for the particular car.  It usually includes builders diagrams and a photo of the car in service.

They take a bit of getting used to as working with cut styrene sides is different than injection molded sides or brass/metal sides.  In some ways they are more forgiving, in other ways they are much more fragile (around the windows you must be very careful clearing out the flash).  I've probably done more than 10 cars over the years and each one I do tends to be a bit better than the last and I'm happy with the results.

The most complicated cars that I've done was a 3 unit diner for the Lark (I used a Des Plaines core kit and USP sides) and a Ringling Bros and Barnum and Bailey Advertising car (lots of modifications to an American Car and Foundry hospital car).  I'm including photos for your reference.

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Nate,
Thanks for the quick reply! That Lark Club is a knockout!!! 
I have their COSF Pullman (4066A plan) 12 Duplex-5 DBR Sleeper sides. This will be for the 1953 "Coast Starlight".
Yes, they supplied some prototype photos of the car as you mentioned. I actually have a little "stash" of the
American Limited core kits and their "underbody detail" sets as well. ...

[altohorn25]

I got quite a bit done on some of my N scale passenger fleet (Southern Pacific "Cascade" in 1950) over the past two days:

-22 roomette sleeper is completed and ready for service.

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-Mail/Baggage shell has been assembled and primed.  Need to add details and diaphragms before painting.

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-I converted a Kato baggage car that was factory painted for the "Lark":  painted the roof, underframe, and diaphragms black, swapped out the 4 wheel trucks for heavier 6 wheel trucks, and changed the name on the side of the car from Lark to Cascade using Microscale decals.  The two tone grey paint job doesn't match up with the other Cascade cars the best, but it will work fine.

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The train is coming along.  I have a 4-4-2 sleeper to build and I'm looking forward to getting more head end equipment, 10-6 sleepers, diner, and the tail car from Railsmith when they are released.

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