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Wow neat build! And it came together quickly too! Does it follow a prototype or something you just made from the scrap box? Craig
Prototype based!
As much rust as there is on that car, it makes me wonder what type of "scale" they are testing.
Here's some eye candy for you NYC modelers out there. I received a Key Brass H-10b in the mail this week, which unless someone comes out with a model of a Niagara (cough, Kato please, cough) basically fills out my roster for the Hiles Tower doughnut layout. I did see some sparks from the leading and trailing wheels hitting the frame during breaking in, and it does have me worried that such behavior could give me a fried decoder. Does anyone have advice for installing DCC in brass locomotives?
Vertigo. Aerial view of Letourneau Gorge. I'm just running some trains tonight. (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Vertigo. Aerial view of Letourneau Gorge. I'm just running some trains tonight.
Aside from insulating the motor (I haven't had my H-10 apart to check if it's insulated or not, and Spookshow's picture doesn't show the motor well enough), if you use an ESU version 5 decoder, you can turn on "overload protection" which should keep shorts from frying the decoder, but the real solution is to try and figure out a way to stop the shorting. For things like the wheels hitting the frame, you could use a very liquidy super glue and make a thin layer over where the wheels hit the frame (with the locomotive apart so you aren't gluing everything together). Either that, or maybe fiber washers put behind the wheel faces.
jpwisc: I'm surprised at the rust. Most scale test cars are kept clean, to minimize weight variation. I would think that they'd have to verify the weight of the car each trip, to keep up with the rust.(For those who hadn't thought about it, rust stuck to the car increases weight, the iron in the steel combines with oxygen. Rust that falls off, of course, reduces the weight. Neither are predictable.)