Weekend Update 5/7/23

[robert3985]

I have wanted some Reading Taylor caboose trucks for a long time and I was trying to hunt down some plans.  Well, it turns out I had some plans all along.





I really love my Phrozen Mini 8k.

Man! Those turned out GREAT!  I said to myself "Are these N-scale???"...then looked at the end-railings on the caboose.  Yup, but you can't tell by the detailing on the trucks!  Maybe you can print up some replacement steps and end railing/ladders???

What resin?  Using anti-aliasing and blur?? What angle?  What slicer?

Inspires me to get to work.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[haasmarc]

Thanks, Bob.

Resin: Phrozen Aqua 8k
AA:     No AA/blur, 0.02 layer height
Angle: Flat
Slicer: Chitubox

[SAH]

Regarding Marc's Reading trucks and Ron's four bulb headlight (with glass cover?!!!):  WOW!!!!  Makes my scratch effort this week seem kind of puny. 

I finished the last of the yellow AC&Y S2s.  Truth be told, there were only two, 101 and 105.  100 is a foobie, but so what.   
105 came to the AC&Y secondhand in 1964 from the NKP.  You can see the differences in this family photo.  The Sinclair antennae, different horn location, sun shades and Wheeling inspired handrail cage being most significant.  Given the October 1964 N&W takeover date was approaching I'm guessing the AC&Y shop forces painted their purchase in the home road colors as a final act of defiance. 

[C855B]

I finished the last of the yellow AC&Y S2s.  Truth be told, there were only two, 101 and 105.  100 is a foobie, but so what.   

Yeah, I have a weakness for Alco switchers, too. Fortunately UP had 99 S2s and S4s burbling around the railroad, so I don't need to foob a thing. 

[Chris333]

I'm about to toss my Sonic Mini 8K in the trash. My very first print with it had a bunch of tiny holes through it. I could fit a .012" wire through some of them. So I figured there were some dead pixels. I bought a new screen and same result, but less holes. I can move the model around to dodge the holes, but it is a pain in the neck to keep printing over and over to find the one good spot.

Phrozen was absolutely no help at all and keep having try a bunch of stuff that would have no affect on the screen.

Photo is at an angle because that is how it was printed. You can see I slid a wire through one set of holes and pointed out a few more.

[brokemoto]

My very first print with it had a bunch of tiny holes through it. I could fit a .012" wire through some of them.

Line up the holes for grab irons?  What you can not use for grab irons, Squadron Green®, sand and move on with project?  This is the first time that I have seen this complaint about a Three-D printer.

[altohorn25]

I weathered up some Intermountain box cars this morning.

The ATSF is a ready to run car.

The NP and GN car are old kits that I built this past week.  I swapped out the plastic wheels for metal ones and body mounted Micro Trains Z scale 905 couplers.

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[altohorn25]

I also weathered up my second set of Milwaukee Road FP7's for my Morning Hiawatha.  Yes, I know the B unit is an F7 not an FP7.....

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[nickelplate759]

In a switch from shots of beautiful work, here's something that is not so pretty.  I'm trying to do the black Amtrak day-1 E-unit #4316.   It's a Life-Like shell, so I'm not going for full-out accuracy (Farr-Air grills, lots of grab irons, nose lifts, etc.), just a "good-enough" quick and easy paint-and-decal job.  It does require patching the portholes - and that didn't go so well.

 Evidence below:






To be fair, this has been photographed to highlight the flaws.  The problem, as I see it, is there isn't enough room between the batten strips to really get in and sand well. I used Tamiya putty, and made specialized sanding tools to fit between the batten strips, but I can't really do a good job in there.
The nose (not shown), where there is plenty of room to sand, came out just fine.

[robert3985]

Regarding Marc's Reading trucks and Ron's four bulb headlight (with glass cover?!!!):  WOW!!!!  Makes my scratch effort this week seem kind of puny. 

I finished the last of the yellow AC&Y S2s.  Truth be told, there were only two, 101 and 105.  100 is a foobie, but so what.   
105 came to the AC&Y secondhand in 1964 from the NKP.  You can see the differences in this family photo.  The Sinclair antennae, different horn location, sun shades and Wheeling inspired handrail cage being most significant.  Given the October 1964 N&W takeover date was approaching I'm guessing the AC&Y shop forces painted their purchase in the home road colors as a final act of defiance. 

Nothin' puny about it!    Those look really nice, including the track, ballasting & weeds...

Excellent work!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[jargonlet]

In a switch from shots of beautiful work, here's something that is not so pretty.  I'm trying to do the black Amtrak day-1 E-unit #4316.   It's a Life-Like shell, so I'm not going for full-out accuracy (Farr-Air grills, lots of grab irons, nose lifts, etc.), just a "good-enough" quick and easy paint-and-decal job.  It does require patching the portholes - and that didn't go so well.

 Evidence below:






To be fair, this has been photographed to highlight the flaws.  The problem, as I see it, is there isn't enough room between the batten strips to really get in and sand well. I used Tamiya putty, and made specialized sanding tools to fit between the batten strips, but I can't really do a good job in there.
The nose (not shown), where there is plenty of room to sand, came out just fine.

Why not use the patch set for EL E8's from KV Models?

[SP-Wolf]

Making progress on my SP utility truck project:

I decided to remove the racks. After seeing them in the up close photos, I didn't much care fro them.



Thanks,
Wolf

[nickelplate759]

Why not use the patch set for EL E8's from KV Models?

Good thought.  Those were designed for Kato E8s, but might fit.  I was trying to keep this cheap and simple and not add detail parts, but that doesn't seem to be working out.

[dem34]

Ran into that with a freebie JnJ NE caboose.
Tamiya putty likes to shrink a lot, I usually need to about 3-4 applications to get a smooth cover over a large opening. Little better to just do a "drywall patch" with Styrene and just use the putty for the edges. Still needs the aforementioned multiple applications as well.

[nickelplate759]

Ran into that with a freebie JnJ NE caboose.
Tamiya putty likes to shrink a lot, I usually need to about 3-4 applications to get a smooth cover over a large opening. Little better to just do a "drywall patch" with Styrene and just use the putty for the edges. Still needs the aforementioned multiple applications as well.

It's not the shrinking that's the problem - it's the lack of space to sand.  I filled the hole with the original window glazing, applied at least 3 coats of putty (sanding in between) and it's still not good.  Phooey.