Need help repairing an ME turnout

[mike_lawyer]

I need some help repairing the throwbar on an ME #6 turnout.  I have my mainline finished, but have not installed switch machines yet.  During a short operating session, we were using jewelers screwdrivers to hold the points in place.  One of us must have put too much pressure, and one of the sides of the throwbar broke off.  This allows one of the rails to not be level with the surrounding track.  Here is a picture:



Is there a way for me to glue the piece of drawbar that broke off?  Or is there some other way I should try to repair this?  Any help is greatly appreciated!

[mike_lawyer]

One thought I had is to maybe take off the plastic drawbar, and just insert a PCB tie?  Would that be the best solution?

[jagged ben]

One thought I had is to maybe take off the plastic drawbar, and just insert a PCB tie?  Would that be the best solution?

Yeah, I had that thought.  Can't think of anything better yet.

[Scottl]

That would be my solution as well.

[nickelplate759]

Microengineering offers "turnout parts" (#80-322 for code 55) that includes the points and throw-bar assembly.

To be honest, I broke a throw-bar on one of these and just gave up and replaced the entire turnout.  I know that's not much help...

[mike_lawyer]

Microengineering offers "turnout parts" (#80-322 for code 55) that includes the points and throw-bar assembly.

To be honest, I broke a throw-bar on one of these and just gave up and replaced the entire turnout.  I know that's not much help...

Thanks for the info, the part number looks to be 80-332.  I will probably order a couple of those.  I wonder how you are supposed to install the throwbar under an already-installed turnout with the point rails attached?  The throwbar is longer than the width of the rails in both directions.

[nkalanaga]

That would be a problem, and I can't think of an answer!

[mmagliaro]

PCB tie is the way to go.  Can be done in-place, and it's not hard.  Just good careful soldering technique
and an NMRA gauge to make sure you get those point rails right, and it will be fixed better than new.

[nkalanaga]

I've replaced PC ties in-place, and it isn't hard. 

[mike_lawyer]

I have some PCB ties from Fast Tracks, but they are a little "thinner" than the ME ties.  Will that be a problem?  Do I need to "shim" underneath the PCB tie and leave that there permanently?

[mike_lawyer]

Success!  It took a bit of surgery, but now I have a much more robust PCB throwbar.  A couple of things I figured out during the process:

1.  To make sure the point rails cannot come loose from the rail connectors, position the PCB throwbar up against the forward tie (i.e., away from the frog).

2.  The PCB ties from Fast Tracks are thinner than the ME ties.  I cut a small piece of card stock and placed it under the PCB tie while soldering.  This kept the PCB tie at the correct level.

3.  I highly recommend using silver solder that Bob and others recommend. This was my first time trying it, and man is it stronger than regular rosin core solder.  Also, I noticed it had much less tendency to flow into unwanted areas.  It would flow basically only where I applied flux.  Definitely a benefit for this application.

Here is a picture of the final result:

[mike_lawyer]

Just as a follow up to this thread, I have one turnout that is giving me fits trying to get a PCB board drawbar installed.  Is there any way to install the pre-fab replacement throwbar from ME turnout parts (#80-332 for code 55) in a turnout that is already installed?  The throwbar is obviously longer than the length between the rails.  Has anyone tried this?

Mike

[mmagliaro]

The things you observed are all correct: You should  shim under a PCB tie to get it to match the level,
you need to put it against that tie, like you did, so the point rails can't pull out of the rail joiner "hinges",
and flux and silver-bearing solder are a must.  It looks like there is a little much solder in there, though.
Just make sure you've filed it down enough to clear the deepest-flanged thing you own.

Can you describe the"fits"?   I think you'll always be better off with a soldered PCB tie.

[mike_lawyer]

The things you observed are all correct: You should  shim under a PCB tie to get it to match the level,
you need to put it against that tie, like you did, so the point rails can't pull out of the rail joiner "hinges",
and flux and silver-bearing solder are a must.  It looks like there is a little much solder in there, though.
Just make sure you've filed it down enough to clear the deepest-flanged thing you own.

Can you describe the"fits"?   I think you'll always be better off with a soldered PCB tie.

I can take a picture tonight, I accidentally melted the tie that the PCB board should rest against.  I also had some silver solder migrate in between the closure rail and the stock rail.

I am thinking for the melted tie that maybe I should just cut that tie out and glue in a replacement wooden tie in its place, then try to resolder the point rails to a new PCB rail. 

As far as cleaning the solder off the stock rails, any recommendations?

Mike

[mmagliaro]

Maybe heat the solder up and then give it a quick swipe with a wet sponge.  That works for getting solder off a PCB board or a component lead sometimes. 

As for the tie you melted, I supposed a wood tie would work if you 2-part-epoxy it in there.  You could also just
cut it out and solder another PCB tie in its place (and be careful with the soldering iron this time... ha ha ha  )
Just kidding you.  I have melted ties and all sorts of things like this.  Just one errant motion of the fingers is all it takes.