Stewartstown 10 (was "Stripping Bachmann 44 Tonners")

[Chris333]

This is a Bachmann 70 Tonner going around 5" curves:

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https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/62/6f/9a/36/71/large_display_20220727_155939.jpg

[wm3798]

I ran into the same problem with the 70-tonner; the trucks barely pivoted, and the loco relied mainly on its tiny wheelbase to get through curves. What I did was to slightly trim the front and back edges of the tabs on the trucks that snap them to the frame. I'm not cool enough to post images yet, but you can see the tabs in the first picture in Pete's post above. Making the tabs narrower lets the truck pivot a little further in its slot in the frame.

I figured it's the pivot point that's the issue.  I wasn't sure whether it was best to go after the gear tower on the trucks, or to nibble out more frame.  Obviously the trucks are easier to get to...  I may give that a try.

Thank you.  You've got my vote for joining the Cool Kids!

Lee

[Jim Starbuck]

I figured it's the pivot point that's the issue.  I wasn't sure whether it was best to go after the gear tower on the trucks, or to nibble out more frame.  Obviously the trucks are easier to get to...  I may give that a try.

I don’t know if it’s been suggested but I’d start simple by backing off the frame half screws until just before the trucks fall out.

[Chris333]

Thinking back    I may have filed down something on the trucks to get it to swing further. But it can work. The frame you see I filed away was just for those large HO scale side frames I used.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Holy crap, 11 months... Well, here's the latest on the project.

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But it's been a journey...

The year long stumbling block was lettering the cab.

I first planned on spelling out S T E W A R T S T O W N with individual letters. It took me a while to find the right Microscale lettering set (x2 because a single set left no room for errors) and then, once I did, I discovered that none of the letters worked for me size wise. I had made up a template, THOUGHT it was gonna work, but was running out of cab by the time I got to the third "T".

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Luckily, I have a friend at http://mountvernonshops.com/ who was intimately familiar with the locomotive. He put an set of STEWARTSTOWNS (along with "10") on his next yellow order. It all took a while, but she's FINALLY got her name and number.

Now to deal with those stupid handrails. I was on the fence about removing them in the first place and should've just left them alone and worked around them. They were NOT easy to remove and have gotten a little messed up in the process. I'd love to get a replacement set from Bachmann but I'm certain there's no way that'll happen.

I still have plenty to do (including a few more applications of micro-sol) but I had to share this update with the video of what actually is the most prototypically correct model to have appearing on my version of the Northern Central.

I CANNOT say thank you enough to @Jim Starbuck for making this possible.

[Jim Starbuck]

That’s fantastic Ed!

[wm3798]

You'll need a module with the rickety truss bridge.

Nice work.

A couple of 60s era lumber boxcars would be good, too.
Lee

[Ed Kapuscinski]

You'll need a module with the rickety truss bridge.

Nice work.

A couple of 60s era lumber boxcars would be good, too.
Lee

Why do you think I made those T-MO junctions my man?

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Some more inspiration:
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLK097iQ9uFLv8pQOhNdJ0sG0NPiSEkAFX&si=qUYW2vBgU-RHw1Cw

[StewRRFan]

Looks good Ed.  Wish I could get mine to run that smooth.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Looks good Ed.  Wish I could get mine to run that smooth.

@Jim Starbuck worked his magic on it. It's got a keep alive jammed into the cab. I'm pretty sure he's got a "how to" around here somewhere.

[OldEastRR]

My 44T was from B's first run, and all I did was remove some of the excess electronic stuff and the plastic block that filled the cab interior. Now you can see thru it. No mods to the mechanism and just the stock decoder. It runs fine over turnouts and through  the 7.5" R Unitrack S-curve coming out of the hidden interchange track. 50' cars have a hard time trying it. But yes, the handrails are a pain. Hard to get off, hard to re-attach, and can be bent very easily.

[Jim Starbuck]

Looks good Ed.  Wish I could get mine to run that smooth.

The 44t is a robust little mechanism. If the wheels are clean and it’s still balky, the brass tabs that contact the frame halves are likely dirty. Loosen the screws that hold the frame halves together a little and the trucks will pull out. Some alcohol on a Q tip usually works to clean the.brass tabs. I lightly burnish the pad on the frame halves with 600 grit sandpaper then wipe them with alcohol too.
While the stock decoder is plenty adequate, I’ve found the 44t like all of Bachmann’s excellent switchers benefit from a better hardwired decoder and like in Ed’s sound install the addition of a keep alive but not all small wired decoders have an obvious place to attach the ground wire.
Here’s the link to the sound install:

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=53488.0

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Speaking of those frame contact tabs, make sure they're getting good contact with the frame too.

Seems like a no brainer, but we all have our moments.

[peteski]

Speaking of those frame contact tabs, make sure they're getting good contact with the frame too.

I described my improvements in the truck contacts earlier in this thread. https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=54919.msg794750#msg794750

That, plus replacing the Bachmann decoder with a ZIMO non-sound decoder and adding a bank of capacitors in the cab resulted in what my friend says is the best running switcher on his layout.