Airbrush recommendations for currently available airbrushes

[craigolio1]

I've been using a Paasche VL dual action for 30 years.  I've done some amazing and some crap paint jobs with it.  As mentioned before it mostly comes down to paint prep and surface prep I think.  I'm still getting the hang of shooting Acrylics .  I miss lacquers.  One thing is for sure though I looooooove the dual action and don't think I could paint without it..... or maybe I just wouldn't want to.

Craig

[C62-2]

I have owned a Badger 200 (single-action internal mix) for over 30 years and I find it very useful for painting models (trains, automobile airplane models, etc.)
But since it is a single-action airbrush, it is not really very useful for weathering.

They're supposed to be very good, but somehow I never got along with mine. I don't know whether it was me, or the paint, or what, but I was constantly replacing the tip and needle on it, and at some point, even sent it back for them to refurbish (an internal gasket went bad). The airbrush was bottom feed, while the Tamiya is gravity feed, which I think makes a big difference. I also switched from modelflex to Tamiya paint, at the same time I switched airburshes, since that's what's available where I live now. The Tamiya one is much easier to take apart, clean, and reassemble, and I haven't had to replace anything in the 8 years that I've been using it. Switching to dual action was also a good upgrade.

[Bill H]

Thanks to everyone who has responded. So far the consensus seems to be Iwata, either the Neo or the Eclipse. Any specific decision point / preference between the two other than price?

[thomasjmdavis]

I've been using a Paasche VL dual action for 30 years.  I've done some amazing and some crap paint jobs with it.  As mentioned before it mostly comes down to paint prep and surface prep I think.  I'm still getting the hang of shooting Acrylics .  I miss lacquers.  One thing is for sure though I looooooove the dual action and don't think I could paint without it..... or maybe I just wouldn't want to.

Craig

Yep.  What he said. I've only had mine for about 15 years. I will admit, I've occasionally had issues, but fixed 95 % of the problems by adding an extra water filter between the compressor air hose and the last 4 feet of hose into the airbrush.
This not only catches any water that might have gone past the filter on the compressor, it also grabs any tiny bits of whatever. Other than that, it does pay dividends to play with the pressure for various viscosities- especially with acrylics.

Paasche is also remarkably good about parts.  (in my experience, anyway)

[Spades]

Thanks to everyone who has responded. So far the consensus seems to be Iwata, either the Neo or the Eclipse. Any specific decision point / preference between the two other than price?

Since this is your first I would go with the Neo/Cheaper.  Why?  N scale is small.  Some of the effects the effects the Eclipse/$$$ can give take a lifetime to learn and are very hard to see.

I would suggest learn how to use the airbrush.  Airbrush Asylum YouTube channel is great for that. Next mixing and spraying the paints you are going to use. (YouTube again.)   Look at other stuff too.  Night Shift, he does tank modeling. He has a YouTube video series on a 1/100 scale JS-2 tank.  Why? N Scale size and what you can/can't do with an Airbrush and brush.

[nickelplate759]

Yep.  What he said. I've only had mine for about 15 years. I will admit, I've occasionally had issues, but fixed 95 % of the problems by adding an extra water filter between the compressor air hose and the last 4 feet of hose into the airbrush.
This not only catches any water that might have gone past the filter on the compressor, it also grabs any tiny bits of whatever. Other than that, it does pay dividends to play with the pressure for various viscosities- especially with acrylics.

Paasche is also remarkably good about parts.  (in my experience, anyway)

I have and use a VL (medium tip) as well, and am pretty happy with it when using TruColor paints.   I struggled with Badger Modelflex - it kept clogging the tip.   I never resolved that issue as I discovered TruColor paints, but I suspect a larger tip would have helped. 

The only issue I have is that when I'm using the color cup I sometimes get a little energetic and splash paint out of the cup, but that's on me.

[robert3985]

I've been using Paasche airbrushes since I started learning to use airbrushes when I was in my early 20's while employed at Battelle Labs as a Senior Graphics/Technical Illustrator/Model Maker.

I used the old, smaller fine-arts Paasche Model V for my graphics illustrations, shooting alcohol based artists colors, and the larger VL in the model shop with the 3 heads for less fine work and throwing enamels and lacquers.

When I joined the USN as an Illustrator/Draftsman, I was the only Illustrator/Draftsman at the Education Training & Supply Detachment (EDTRASUPDET) in Charleston SC and was able to supply myself with the tools I needed to get the job done.

I chose Paasche airbrushes, and since I was doing a lot of fine art illustrations and photo retouching, I procured two top-of-the-line Paasche Model AB turbine fed fine-art external feed airbrushes in addition to the rest of my airbrushes.

After my tour with the USN, I was again employed as both a Senior Graphics/Technical Illustrator and Senior Industrial Model Maker with various aerospace companies until I went into business for myself producing humorous greeting cards, still using the Paasche V, Paasche VL, and Paasche Model AB as the airbrushes I used both in my business and for my model making.

I've never found a need for a single-action airbrush for either illustration or model work, the Paasche VL with the #3 head and needle spraying a large enough swath for any model railroad work or any of my industrial model making, and being able to throw both enamel/lacquer paint as well as alcohol/water based paints.

Nowadays, I have a lot of airbrushes and I use them for different aspects of my model railroading...the Paasche VL's with different sized heads for general spraying and weathering, and my turbine driven Paasche AB's with their ultra-precise capabilities when fine work is needed, such as weathering rivet lines, or mud/oil spattering.

If I were to only have one or two airbrushes for my work today, I would not hesitate to purchase the top-of-the-line pro version of the Paasche VL with all three different sized heads since they are well-known for their versatility, along with several accessories such as different sized buckets, paint jars and spare needles, having two VL's ready for fine work with the #1 head/needle, and for general spraying with a #3 head/needle...and a #2 head and needle in reserve if I ever need something in-between.

Although the top-of-the-line Iwatas are well known to be the ultimate airbrushes, I've never felt the need to pay the exorbitant prices for them because my Paasche brushes work just fine.

In addition, I've had several of my Paasche airbrushes repaired at the factory, and customer service at Paasche is top-notch.  Since they're an American company, turnaround time is surprisingly quick which is a big plus.

I try and use solvent-based paints for my model railroading as much as possible, especially for painting engines and cars.  My paint of choice is Scalecoat II, which cleans up in my siphon fed brushes easily with plain old paint thinner.  I've been using Tru-Color paints lately with good effect in both my internal feed and external feed brushes, and I use my old stash of Pollyscale for weathering in my external feed AB.

If I get excessive paint buildup, I disassemble my brush and throw the encrusted parts in my ultrasonic cleaner.

I am sure you can't go wrong with either Paasche or Iwata, but my recommendation is for Paasche since they've served me so well since the early 1970's.

Photo (1) - Some of my Paasche Airbrushes:


Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The nice thing about airbrushes, is that they don't change much over time. A 40 year old Badger 200 is essentially the same as one today. The parts are fully swappable.

Airbrushes are a bit like digital cameras - people tend to fall into company loyalty for Badger, Iwata and Paasche. Think of them as the Cannon, Nikon and Sonys of the painting world. All three companies make capable and dependable equipment. I use Badger as it is made in the US, parts are available and the owner of the company comes to the Springfield train show every year to see what we are looking for and to offer good deals on products.

Airbrushes are frequently sale items on Amazon and craft stores, though craft stores here have been carrying fewer models lately. Your target price is about 50% of any given MSRP. I have been able to get some really good ones for up to 80% off.

I have some of my airbrushes in this post here:
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=38296.msg463128#msg463128

External mix brushes are a bit too crude for model painting. I use them for scenery. Single action internal mix brushes are ok for beginners, but you'll wish you had a dual action in short order. I used to recommend the Badger 155 as a reasonably priced dual action brush, but there are MUCH better options for gravity feed brushes today.

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-105-2XR-Airbrush/dp/B00471RFQA
This would be my current recommendation. Dual action, gravity feed and uses a medium needle and nozzle. This can be equipped with a fine needle and nozzle for very fine weathering, but for general painting go with the medium.

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-2020-2H-Airbrush/dp/B004AM75FM
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Airbrush-105-XTR-Xtreme-Patriot/dp/B01EB569ZY
This is what you want for serious weathering. The 105 has a more precise trigger where the Sotar has and adjustable backstop which is useful for feathering colors and making a uniform translucent coating (think window tinting). Both were about $300 when introduced. I own the Sotar and it is simply one of the best hand tools I have EVER used.

[sd45elect2000]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Mostly Paashe but there is one 1.5mm Tamiya.

[mu26aeh]

Good timing as Tim Garland shows some airbrush weathering on his Seaboard Central layout, using the Iwata Neo