Tips for using CMR decals?

[mecgp7]

I bought some of the CMR decals and I can't use them. Just wondering if others have had any luck. I found severe curling once the decal is slid from the backing onto the model. Even when I get them on right Micro-sol and other decal softers do virtually nothing. For example, a stripe along a loco with all the seams between doors, etc., just sits there. It looks like a sticker stuck to the loco. These decals are thick.
Any suggestions?

[bnsfdash8]

I've used a handful of their sets with mixed results. As long as the decal is a small logo, lettering, numbers, and going on a generally smooth surface they've been fine. Any medium to larger logos or stripes have all curled or turned into a wrinkled mess after applying to the model and using microset/microsol.

I only use their decals if it's an absolute last resort which is a shame because they have decals I could really use.

[ai5629]

I saw these folks at the N Scale Weekend in Altoona back in 2019.  I mentioned some issues I was having applying the Bessemer and Lake Erie Savings Bond decal to an N scale Atlas 60’ boxcar.  Mainly what you have experienced, with the decal refusing to snuggle  down no matter the number of Micro Sol or Solvaset coats applied.  They were adamant they would snuggle down.  Even did a test for me at the show.  It did not settle down, and they seemed to think it did.  It is a shame, as they have nice sets.  What I found was that single color decals are fine.  I ended up decalling a 60’ Bessemer and Lake Erie boxcar without the Savings Bond logo, and the single color decal film (road number in this case), virtually disappeared when adding decal setting solution and decals were sealed with dull coat.  YMMV.  Thanks.

Jeff

[dem34]

When I did the decaling for my Auto parts car I used them. Best way to get the big Conrail Can opener to settle down was to poke a couple holes in the decal with an exacto then apply the Sol. That said a few small labels still ended up puffed up in the center.

[sp org div]

Micro sol is pretty tame stuff compared to Solvaset
and full strength Solvaset can damage thin decals if you arent careful
Jeff L mentioned using both above, but I sure would have expected repeated layers of solvaset to get them to lay down eventually…

another Jeff

[peteski]

I wonder if CMR uses the same printing technology that Tichy uses: an ink jet with UV-cured waterproof inks? That would be somewhat similar to what MTL uses for decorating their graffiti cars (printing directly on the cars).  That ink is Tichy uses is thick enough to be measured using cheap digital calipers.  Few years ago nkalanga send me a sample of the Tichy decals, and I gave them a quick look, but I have not done any extensive experiments on them.  Too many projects.  But I do know that the ink is really thick.

[nkalanaga]

I wondered the same thing, after reading the descriptions.

Since Tichy undercoats colors with white, colored decals are twice as thick.  I've been tempted to draw up a sheet of rivets and weld lines, but so far haven't found a use for that many rivets!

Tichy's work fine on smooth surfaces, and most of mine are reweigh data, so they're quite usable.  Their printer was acting up last winter, and they didn't have any idea when it would be fixed, so my last couple sets have been done by Highball.  Very nice decals, but they do require vector graphics.  Tichy can print anything, as long as it's sent as a PDF, although they do need a separate file for each color.

[bman]

I've used CMR decals with mixed results also. A few years ago I tried their WE Ohio bicentennial loco decals but had a little trouble getting the side logo decal to snuggle down over the locomotive door details. Lately I've used their customized reporting marks and other smaller one color decals with great results. I am working on the ABC Railway loco now and after my move I will be decaling that with their decal for that 9ng with another Crack at WE 200 the Ohio. bicentennial unit.Let's see how that goes.

[mu26aeh]

I used them for the Winchester & Western units I painted a few years ago.  I didn't have a curling problem but they did seem thick.  They laid down fine but looking at them it looked as though you could see where the yellow stripes bumped out from the shell, if that makes sense.    like a sticker, as @mecgp7 described below

[mecgp7]

It's too bad because they print a lot of decals that I could use, but they just don't work over uneven surfaces. If all you have is a flat surface then you'll be fine although they may look like a sticker. CMR sent me a link to a video on how to use the decals, but it doesn't address the curling issue as they claim because they are using a thin strip which isn't wide enough to curl. They also claim the decals settle into details but the video is so poor that you couldn't ever tell.
Wonder if they could print on different paper.

[peteski]

Wonder if they could print on different paper.

As I mentioned earlier, I suspetc thit is not the paper, but the thick rigid ink.

[mecgp7]

Not sure. It is like they are vinyl. I had the same experience with rust and weathering decals years back.

[peteski]

Not sure. It is like they are vinyl. I had the same experience with rust and weathering decals years back.

If that is the case then it is too bad they aren't using a "standard" clear feel decal paper.  My speculation was based on my encounter with Tichy Trains decals.

[nkalanaga]

I have seen some large-scale truck and airplane "decals" that were vinyl sheets.  The ones I saw covered an entire side, or other surface, and were apparently "set" with a hair dryer.  I have no idea how that worked without melting the model.

[MK]

Maybe they are scaled down vinyl wraps similar to the full scale ones for cars and buses.