A forming tap would only work in very soft material. Cutting taps are all I use .
This depends on the tap drill size used.
In my example I was tapping 2-56 thread in a 3D printed steel tender chassis after using the proper tap drill (which also wore very quickly). The steel is mush harder that mill steel, aluminum or hard brass. The prints were $30+ each and I could not get the broken tap out no matter what I tried.
The MT tap dulled too quickly and the "chips" it produced would bind in the grooves and would eventually snap. Cutting taps were worse because of the reduced cross section (A below) at the center of a fluted tap (B below, a little better with two flutes) as compared to the MT Tap:
In the end I went with a true forming (plug) tap which is primarily a hardened threaded rod and the cross section is simply the rood diameter of the thread. But instead of using the "proper" tap drill size I went with a larger size that still left a reasonable amount of thread, especially since the forming tap is designed to displace metal into the threads. Let's face it; in our scale a full thread depth is not really needed as we will never need to apply full load on the thread anyway, nor will the operational load be enough to pull those threads out.
It's still tough to tap, but I haven't broken a tap since and as far as I know no customer has complained to me of a stripped thread or loose joint in the kit.
I use these but unfortunately I do not see a 00-90:
