Scratchbuilding Sawmills

[rodsup9000]

   By 1950, the WP was still servicing several sawmills in the canyon. Here is a list of what I've found so far in my search.

   2 sawmills owned by High Sierra Pine in Oroville. One of the mills was together with Koppers treatment plant for ties and lumber. 

   Diamond Match in Oroville

   Kenneth Metzger Lumber at Sloat

   High Sierra Pine at Grays Flat
 
   Graeagle Lumber just outside of Blairsden   Graeagle (pronounced "gray eagle") was a "mill town"

   California Fruit Exchange box factory by Graeagle lumber

   Delleker Lumber Just outside of Portola (not sure if this was in operation in 1950. Very little info on it)
 
   Essex Lumber and Meadow Valley, both serviced by the Quincy RR and interchanged with the WP.
   
   
 
 

 
   I have Long Valley Lumber from Russ (N Scale Architect) and it is somewhat compressed. It's built and going to be used in Quincy (can be seen in my layout thread in Quincy). For the one at Blairsden, I have 14" X 36" space for it. While looking around researching sawmills, I found this one that was just outside of Quincy.






  Photo is from "Sierra Buttes Trail Stewardship" website




   Getting started with the basic mill building. The power house, planing mill, drying kilns and storage will come later.   The main mill measures 175 ' long X 105' wide (about 13 1/2" X 8") so far. Still need add docks and awnings.
  I got some new stuff to try for the sides that's only .016" thick. It's resin impregnated kraft paper and it's pretty stiff. I'm hoping that I can get the kerf on my laser down to about .010".  The thickness is about 2 1/2" in N scale and with a thin kref, it should look like boards.
 Windows, doors and other details will be printed.































 
 

[peteski]

That looks like a great start!
Are you using SketchUp as the design tool?

[rodsup9000]

That looks like a great start!
Are you using SketchUp as the design tool?

  Thanks Pete,  Yes, I use Sketchup for all my 2D work for the laser and 3D for printing. For laser cutting, I first draw it in 2D, then copy and paste in another window. Then I add the thickness for 3D. Copy and paste to the part I'm building to test the fit. If if fits, I go on the the next. If it doesn't, I make the necessary changes in 2D and repeat.  (edited) I draw everything full size, then reduce it by .00625% to get it to N scale.

[rodsup9000]

  Exterior framework to be cut out of 1/16" plywood. Still needs some work, but it gives me a idea of what it'll look like. Plan on gluing the board by board siding (cut from .011" PolyBak) on this framework. Just have to see if it'll work. If I can't get the PolyBak to look like wood, I'll have to cut it out of 1/64"' plywood (expensive stuff) or see if I can find some 1/64" basswood sheets.

   

[peteski]

Thanks for your answer Rod. Looks like have quite a few design hours invested in this model so far.  Very impressive design!

[Chris333]

If you draw at full size doesn't that slow down Sketchup?

[JeffB]

  Exterior framework to be cut out of 1/16" plywood. Still needs some work, but it gives me a idea of what it'll look like. Plan on gluing the board by board siding (cut from .011" PolyBak) on this framework. Just have to see if it'll work. If I can't get the PolyBak to look like wood, I'll have to cut it out of 1/64"' plywood (expensive stuff) or see if I can find some 1/64" basswood sheets.

Hello Rod,

  Any idea where you can purchase Polybak sheets in anything smaller than 31" x 97"...  I'd be very interested in the 0.011" thick material for cutting windows for HO scale, but don't see the need for an 8' long roll!

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Jeff

[rodsup9000]

Thanks for your answer Rod. Looks like have quite a few design hours invested in this model so far.  Very impressive design!

 Thanks Pete, and yes I have more hours than I care to say. (mistakes mostly)

Hello Rod,

  Any idea where you can purchase Polybak sheets in anything smaller than 31" x 97"...  I'd be very interested in the 0.011" thick material for cutting windows for HO scale, but don't see the need for an 8' long roll!

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Jeff

 Hey Jeff,
 I'm going to try to get a couple of sheets in a week or two. I'll send you a PM when I get it and send you some.

If you draw at full size doesn't that slow down Sketchup?

 Chris,

 I don't see any differences in the speed whether it full size or scale. I do notice that when I have lots of lines (like brickwork on my sugar warehouse), my computer slows down a lot. But it didn't matter whether it was full size or N scale.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

@rodsup9000 I just want to say that you're the cutting edge modeler that I wish I was.

Keep pushing the envelope man!

[JeffB]

  Hey Jeff,
 I'm going to try to get a couple of sheets in a week or two. I'll send you a PM when I get it and send you some.

Thanks Rod!  I'd be more than happy to pay for the material and postage...  If you can easily purchase large sheets, and are willing to cut them down into more manageable pieces, I'd gladly buy those from you should the material work out.

I've done custom windows and doors in thin cardstock (about 0.008" thick)...  They look great, but require extensive sealing to prevent warping (before painting).  It would be nice to find a thin and strong material that is less prone to warping.

Love the brick structure...  I just started experimenting with brick myself (on my own laser... I work in HO scale).  So far I've had good results in both fiber board (heavy cardstock more or less) and basswood, but both need to be braced heavily prior to painting.  I used 1/16" thick material, but I can see why the few manufacturers that offer laser etched brick sheets and corner posts do it in 3/32" or 1/8" thick material.  May try a laser friendly plastic next. 

Jeff

[rodsup9000]

@rodsup9000 I just want to say that you're the cutting edge modeler that I wish I was.

Keep pushing the envelope man!

  Thanks, Ed. To be honest, I get more enjoyment out of building things (like the laser) than using them. It's like a challenge to me to see if I can do it.

Thanks Rod!  I'd be more than happy to pay for the material and postage...  If you can easily purchase large sheets, and are willing to cut them down into more manageable pieces, I'd gladly buy those from you should the material work out.

I've done custom windows and doors in thin cardstock (about 0.008" thick)...  They look great, but require extensive sealing to prevent warping (before painting).  It would be nice to find a thin and strong material that is less prone to warping.

Love the brick structure...  I just started experimenting with brick myself (on my own laser... I work in HO scale).  So far I've had good results in both fiber board (heavy cardstock more or less) and basswood, but both need to be braced heavily prior to painting.  I used 1/16" thick material, but I can see why the few manufacturers that offer laser etched brick sheets and corner posts do it in 3/32" or 1/8" thick material.  May try a laser friendly plastic next. 

Jeff

 What size would be convenient for you??? and how many do you want??? I had read on another forum that Richland Industries will ship 4X8 sheets rolled up in a tube and shipping was around $15. 
 I've done the same for windows and trim pieces and didn't like the outcome. That why I started printing them long ago, first with the FDM printer and now on the Photons.  I've tried brick on plywood and didn't like the way it turn out. I experimented with acrylic on the old K40 laser I had, and it was way better that the wood trial I'd tried. I did my sugar warehouse out of .062" acrylic on the new 100 watt laser I just built. Here is a closeup of the brick detail. 

[Chris333]

About 5 years ago I bought small sheets of Polybak on ebay. They were a little larger than 8.5x11, but shipped in a cardboard envelope.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/164536925742

Says he has other thicknesses, but couldn't find them.

[samusi01]

My source for laserboard is here:

https://encompass-media.salesvu.com/

Sells it in 12"x24", various sizes. Also sells other laser materials.

Sam

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Thanks, Ed. To be honest, I get more enjoyment out of building things (like the laser) than using them. It's like a challenge to me to see if I can do it.

I totally get that.

I've got to say, I still thought about using those tortoise mounts you sent me for the last layout on the current one. Absolutely genius!

[rodsup9000]

  I think I'm almost ready to do some cutting. Just need to add tabs for the roof sheeting.