Building and Attaching Legs for an HCD Layout?

[learmoia]

I built a very basic HCD layout for my nephew several years ago.. I used folding table legs that I had at the time.

He has since lost interest in the layout, and they asked if we wanted it back.. (Yes).. So now I have a basic HCD Layout that I can tinker around with.

(And I have a 3 other spare HCDs that I can use to expand it.)

The folding legs give a height of about 30", but I'd like to raise it to 50-55"... (And get legs for the other 3 doors)

For those who have built HCD layouts, how did you do legs?

[davefoxx]

I extended mine with electrical conduit.  A piece of wooden rod in the bottom of the legs allows you to install tee nuts/bolts for leveling.  A screw through the conduit into the leg secures the conduit to the table legs.  A screw through the conduit into the wooden dowel secures the rod. 

If you need a better description, if I recall correctly, the plans for the legs came from the MR article on the N scale Carolina Central.  I will warn you that the table did have some sway lengthwise to the table.  I later added aluminum strips as angle braces from the legs to the table, which really tightened that up.



Hope this helps,
DFF

[davefoxx]

I found a picture after the addition of the braces.  The C-clamps were securing the wood blocks to the underside of the door until the yellow carpenter's glue dried, as there is no structure in the interior of a HCD.



Hope this helps,
DFF

[learmoia]

I wasn't planning to continue to use the folding legs but that IS a good idea..

[davefoxx]

Oh, sorry, I misunderstood you.  If you want to go without the table legs, I'd suggest just framing up some support from lumber or even stacking cabinets to get storage under the layout.

DFF

[bman]

I used a couple of the cheap some assembly required 4 shelf bookcases I found at Walmart years ago for an HCD layout. I stored my railroad books on one end and my locos and rolling stock at the other. I still ran a 1x4 near each end on the bottom of the door as the bookcases were not as wide as the door I used. I then used small metal L brackets to tie it all together. Luckily the floor was flat enough to not have to shim the bookcases.

[MVW]

I have a peninsula that is essentially two HCDs, both with folding legs and conduit extenders (as Dave illustrated). I lined up old bookshelves beneath the peninsula (on both sides), then used flexible aluminum straps around the legs, screwed into the bookshelves. Solid as a rock for 8+ years.

The original plan was -- and, I guess, still is -- to eventually build rudimentary bookshelves to fit the space between table legs in order to have a uniform height. That way a second deck could be added beneath the original.

Jim

[Allegheny]

Learmoia
Ten years ago I was with the Northern Virginia N-Trak club.  Jim Davis wrote an article on using EMT conduit to make legs.  It involves some work, but I've used them on my N-Trak modules and they have never failed me.  They are detachable and can be stored under the module or HCD.
Their website is:  http://www.nvntrak.org/how-to
View or download the article "2-03 Module Metal Legs.pdf"
The good part is you can make legs any length you want.  However for 50"+ height, you would want to add some extra bracing.

[peteski]

I vote for keeping, and extending the folding legs.  There are some excellent ideas presented here (including extra bracing to further stabilize them in a semi-permanent installation).

Replacing them with "permanent" legs is an extra  hassle, and those legs will still need bracing to make the layout stable.  The folding legs come with some of the stabilization hardware already built-in.  And the layout can be made portable again if needed.

[Centercab]

I built a frame, some legs, and the shelf framing using 1x3's.  The shelf is a piece of MDF.  My layout features 2 HCD's and this type of leg was used on both, but only one has the shelf.

[Centercab]

Going through some photos taken in the past year, I found a pic of the frame that I built for my HCD...

[Maletrain]

Going through some photos taken in the past year, I found a pic of the frame that I built for my HCD...

Wondering why use an HCD with all that framing.  Why not just put a piece of plywood over it?

[davefoxx]

Wondering why use an HCD with all that framing.  Why not just put a piece of plywood over it?

As best as I can tell:

1) The inner framing supports those undermount drawers,

2) The framing at the far ends allows one to put screws into the structure of the door, to secure the HCD to the base, and

3) Have you priced the sheet of plywood lately? 

DFF

[Maletrain]

...
3) Have you priced the sheet of plywood lately? 

DFF

Well, Lowes has a 24" x 80" hollow core door for $39.99 and 2' x 4' 1/2" plywood for $23.62, which would be $47.24 for 24" x 96".  And even 1/4" plywood would be OK in that frame, and that is only $31.02 for 2 quarter sheets. 

So, I would not think the price difference is an issue.

Personally, I prefer a single thickness of plywood over a hollow core door for passing wires through and mounting things like switch machines, anyway.  It is just that a hollow core door doesn't need much framing to make a table top. Saw horses, file cabinets, or shelf units make it easy to set up a hollow core door layout of any height that is sturdy and easily moved, with good storage underneath.  If I wanted to do framing, I would make a platform that is open on the bottom for easier wiring.

[Centercab]

As best as I can tell:

1) The inner framing supports those undermount drawers,

2) The framing at the far ends allows one to put screws into the structure of the door, to secure the HCD to the base, and

3) Have you priced the sheet of plywood lately? 

DFF

Bingo!  All 3 apply here.  Not to mention that I replaced all the old doors in my in-laws house and saved a couple for this.