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Thanks for the suggestion .. I will once I finalize the design .. it won't be as fancy as the trainworx or lemonsteam design .. .. I'm going to play around a little to see if I can draw up the coupler pocket in tinkercad .. will see how it goes .. I have to pay for that printer somehow
For example, on my Mono, the (x,y) resolution is 51 μm, so I set my z layer thickness to 51 μm (instead of the default 50 μm). This really helps keep aliasing to a minimum for surfaces that are ±45 degrees off vertical, which makes it easy to get sharp surfaces on all 6 sides of a part with mostly cubic geometry. All of my conversion parts have been printed this way.
Looking good Tom! A bit of information that came up after the instructions were printed, was that Pullman records showed black roofs and unpainted wood roofwalks as delivered. If you're doing a later simplified scheme, then no worries.
As long as you're going to the trouble of printing a frame adapter, you should definitely include a pocket with it. I can send you some .stl files that could help get you started. You'd have to adjust the dimensions to accommodate your coupler of choice, but it's dead simple to do in TinkerCAD.By the way, I'm not sure why your frame part looks so "soft" but it looks like you printed it flat and that the side we're seeing in the photo was the bottom of the print. Might I recommend that you rotate the part by 45 degrees before you add supports and slice the model. You can get much sharper corners this way, and if your voxel resolution is good, you won't notice the layers. One tip though: with this approach, it's helpful to set your z layer thickness equal to your (x,y) pixel size. For example, on my Mono, the (x,y) resolution is 51 μm, so I set my z layer thickness to 51 μm (instead of the default 50 μm). This really helps keep aliasing to a minimum for surfaces that are ±45 degrees off vertical, which makes it easy to get sharp surfaces on all 6 sides of a part with mostly cubic geometry. All of my conversion parts have been printed this way.
One tip though: with this approach, it's helpful to set your z layer thickness equal to your (x,y) pixel size. For example, on my Mono, the (x,y) resolution is 51 μm, so I set my z layer thickness to 51 μm (instead of the default 50 μm). This really helps keep aliasing to a minimum for surfaces that are ±45 degrees off vertical, which makes it easy to get sharp surfaces on all 6 sides of a part with mostly cubic geometry. All of my conversion parts have been printed this way.
I thought the 1 in PS-1 just stood for "boxcar"?
The specs for the photon -- so if I follow -- I should set the Z for 47?Technical Specifications... ● XY DPI : 47um (2560*1440) ● Y axis resolution : 1.25um...
Work starts on my Briggs kit of a C415. Chassis built up and fitted with a Zimo MX616 decoder.
Where did "Baton Rouge, LA" come from, since "the woods" in which this Wizard now resides is in NJ?