Adding weight to Intermountain reefers?

[thomasjmdavis]

I think I may put this project off til next January.  Then I can move my entire IM collection to the barn to chill out, and still have room in the freezer for the veggies and ice cream.

[Cajonpassfan]

I've found that "usually" nothing else pops loose.  In the case of a reefer maybe the hatches will pop.

Forgot to mention that "over night" is critical.  This technique works best in the morning, after a steak, eggs and hash brown breakfast, washed down with a Natty Bo or two.  I think the finger squeeze pressure is calibrated at that point.  The Baltimore crowd will vouch for necessity of the Natty Bo in the AM.   

Well, the ice reefer is on ice tonight. Don’t know about the steak and eggs and Natty Boh though, my wife made some “overnight oats” for breakfast to keep us healthy😜
Hope that doesn’t ruin the project,,,
Otto

[Caddy58]

Hello Otto,

I faced exactly the same issue on my IM Reefer fleet.

My solution was to pry an ice hatch open (one of four will typically come loose with no damage) and pour lead shot through the hatch until the car was close to the desired weight. I then used a small syringe to add diluted white glue.

I shook the car lightly to ensure that the shot was evenly distributed.

I encountered a few issues:
1) the truck pin extends into the body so if you leave the trucks on the car glue might seep into the truck and mess it up. I literally glued a string of reefers to the track: best to remove the trucks but leave the pin in; it might get stuck a little, but white glue will not create a solid bond

2) the “lead” shot is actually coated lead for fishing; more expensive but safer to handle

3) On very few cars (5 to 10%) I had shot come loose. This is not an issue during operation, but when you lift the car of the track you can hear it clicking around. My cars travel to Fremo meetings on a regular basis, so they see quite some handling. If they would just be used on my layout the white glue would probably stand up even better.

Cheers
Dirk

[Cajonpassfan]

Well dang @SAH, the freezer  trick worked like magic! Thank you, the roof popped right off, with a gentle squeeze in the middle.
To my surprise, I found a weight inside that I must have installed years ago and so this must have been a kit I assembled rather than a factory car I’ll try again tonight, this time with a factory car.

Dirk, thank you for your detailed advice, much appreciated. And yes, my PFE reefers suffer from the same malady. I might yet try your method if the freezer trick doesn’t quite work out.
Otto

[thomasjmdavis]

My freezer experiment was a second hand kit built car, and it stayed "welded" at one end, but enough came easily un-stuck that I can lift the loose end without breaking anything, and get a weight in there.  Now to get out to the garage and cut some more weights.  I need some for boxcars as well, so I guess that is today's project...

Definitely +1 to SAH for the freezer solution.  I do feel bad, though, for whoever among us stayed up all night designing a 3D printed tungsten filled replacement underframe thinking it would sell on Shapeways for $40.

[SAH]

You are quite welcome Otto.  My Uncle, an accomplished aircraft modeler, put me onto that little trick.

I freeze popped a dozen or so early production IM box cars a few years back.  Worked every time.  With a bit of care you can salvage the details too if the car is white lined for the scrapper.  I don't think you'll have any problems.

My wife is into oats done in a pressure pot.  Same goal though.  Nice to know someone cares.   

Steve

[peteski]

Yes guys, I meant birdshot  (the small stuff). I'm not up on my hunting supplies. 

As for the freezer trick, ,it is often mentioned method of ungluing models in the automotive modelers circles. But they also recommend wetting the model, so the water gets inside the joint - then expands when frozen, popping the joint open. I was a bit leery about the water thing.

[nkalanaga]

Off topic, but those little quarter-ounce weights are expensive at the hobby shop.  I bought a box a few years ago at OReilly Auto Parts for a fraction of the price.  30 3-ounce "sticks", 360 weights, for considerably less per weight than at the hobby shop.  I imagine other auto parts chains also sell them.  OReilly had to order them, so if you like to order online, you can probably get them direct.

[Spades]

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-oz-wheel-weights-67225.html

[nkalanaga]

OK.  These are zinc, so larger for the same weight, but should work as well.  Mine were a little cheaper, per weight, but that was five years ago.  Mine were $44.00 plus tax for 30 strips, 12 to a strip, so about 12.5 cents/piece per strip.

I just looked them up, and today's price is $53.99/box, for 15 cents per weight, while these have 8 to a strip, 6 strips, about 20.8 cents/piece. 

On the other hand, these would be non-toxic, which could be a factor if children or pets could get into them.  And, they are probably easier to find in some regions than lead.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/quikstik/tire---wheel/wheel-weights---accessories/wheel-weights/7047dd41857b/perfect-equipment-quikstik-3-ounce-wheel-weight/pwt2/100360?pos=7

[thomasjmdavis]

Off topic, but those little quarter-ounce weights are expensive at the hobby shop.  I bought a box a few years ago at OReilly Auto Parts for a fraction of the price.  30 3-ounce "sticks", 360 weights, for considerably less per weight than at the hobby shop.  I imagine other auto parts chains also sell them.  OReilly had to order them, so if you like to order online, you can probably get them direct.

What I've done is to buy 1/8"x1/2" (x 48" long) "steel flat bar" (looked it up on website) from the hardware store for $5 (per price tag on the most recent purchase, apparently now $6 post-Covid per Ace website) and cut it up into 1" and 2" lengths.  1" of 1/8x1/2 steel weighs just over 1/4 ounce.  The interior of a boxcar or reefer is around 0.65 in width- so it fits in nicely.  Glue it down with tacky glue or epoxy.  Also a big help with those old Rivarossi baggage cars when at the head end of a 15 car train.

[peteski]

Another thing, when reattaching the roof after adding weight, just tack it on using very little glue. Some day you might need to open it up again (in case the ballast gets unglued, or for whatever . . .

[sd45elect2000]

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-oz-wheel-weights-67225.html

\These are bigger than the 1/4 oz lead weights, They will NOT fit into the intermountain SFRD reefers without cutting them and they don't cut easy.

[nkalanaga]

Tom:  That would work.  Many manufacturers use steel weights, so the only problem might be uncoupling magnets.  I get the impression that most people here don't use those anyway, so it wouldn't be an issue.

Since I don't have a good hacksaw, it would be a little hard for me to cut, but that's my problem!

[thomasjmdavis]

Tom:  That would work.  Many manufacturers use steel weights, so the only problem might be uncoupling magnets.  I get the impression that most people here don't use those anyway, so it wouldn't be an issue.

Since I don't have a good hacksaw, it would be a little hard for me to cut, but that's my problem!

I will have to do some testing on uncoupling.  My 1990s layout (when I had the layout, not the era), used magnets, my last one did not.  Given my plans for the next one, magnetic uncoupling would make sense- it will be more "urban" and any sort of "pick" would require reaching between buildings, so magnets would help preserve the architecture and details.
Probably won't be too many more years before someone comes up with a DCC coupler....so our (by then $150) freight cars will not only moo and cluck, but also uncouple when someone pushes the "Netflix" button on the upstairs TV remote.