Cork heights

[peteski]

How do you get those rolls to stay flat?   My experience with them is no matter how much glue I use they still want to curl up.

I'm also leery of the bulletin-board, craft-level kinds of cork..... do they tend to dry out or otherwise deteriorate over time, any more so than the stuff from Midwest?

Ed

Would it be possible to roll the sheet up on the opposite direction and let is sit for some time to "neutralize" the original curvature?  I've done this for styrene and paper/cardboard  sheets.  Just don't let it sit too long or the new curvature will set in.

[SAH]

One of the central NC layouts used three 1/2 widths of cork for the main sub roadbed and then the usual two half widths for the road bed attached to the top of the sub roadbed.  Controlled sidings were the normal roadbed profile.  It looked very prototypical but I never got to see it ballasted.

[ednadolski]

Would it be possible to roll the sheet up on the opposite direction and let is sit for some time to "neutralize" the original curvature?  I've done this for styrene and paper/cardboard  sheets.  Just don't let it sit too long or the new curvature will set in.

With some materials, once it 'takes a set' then it has become stretched/distorted and is all but impossible to force it into its previous state.  Regardless, I'd wager that these items are in the packaged/rolled state a lot longer than I'd have the patience for to let them adapt to a counter-rolled state

Ed

[Angus Shops]

As far as I can tell, rolled cork is impossible to ‘neutralize’. I use it for yard areas, and Midwest for single track or double track. One is slightly thicker than the other (don’t recall which right now) so I use a palm sander to create a transition. I use various pieces of spare plywood to secure the rolled cork - I trace the size of the new cork piece onto the roadbed plywood, spread white glue inside the tracing, place the cork onto the glue, place a piece of plywood at least as big as the cork piece on top of the cork and then securely drive a handful of drywall screws through the whole works. Try to keep the glue neat so you don’t get glue on top of the cork. Main track is at the same height as all the other tracks in my yard areas, sidings at the same height as the mains, but spurs and ‘set out’ tracks are directly on the plywood roadbed. I used some thinner cork for some tracks on the old layout but found the differences between to be so subtle that it was difficult to notice the difference.
Geoff

[Maletrain]

I haven't done this (yet?) but I wonder if something organic like cork could be flattened by soaking it and then spreading it on a far surface with weights to make it flat until it dries.  I wouldn't try that with an entire sheet of cork, but how about some of the cut strips?

[wazzou]

It’s definitely simple enough to flatten the rolled sheet cork, particularly if attempting it after cutting into strips.
Wet it thoroughly and then weight heavily under plywood.

[Pomperaugrr]

When using the rolled cork, and even with regular cork roadbed, I simply apply a thin layer of clear acrylic caulk, spread evenly.  I use very thin map pins to hold in place until the caulk sets.  I have not had any problem with it and some sat exposed for years, while my layout sat dormant.  Once the track is ballasted, I doubt there would be any problem with deterioration.

[EJN]

I use contact cement.

[Cajonpassfan]

I use contact cement.

So do I. Weld wood. No issues, ever.
Otto K.

[OldEastRR]

Here I thought this thread was about a town on Ed's new layout.

[bdennis]

I buy 3mm and 1mm sheets of cork from a flooring company. I then cut into 13mm wide strips on an industrial size guillotine. (some times it is handy to have friends with such machines).
For my main line (N scale) I lay down 2 strips of 3mm cork in parallel with each other and then a single 3mm strip on top in the middle of the 2 strips already laid out.
For secondary or "loop" tracks I lay down the pair of 3mm strips and then a single 1mm strip for the loop tracks.
For yards or sidings I either lay a sheet of cork or single 3mm or single 1mm cork to give the variance of height.
I use 12mm ply as the base timber and then use brown coloured caulk or silicone sealant to glue down the cork to the timber and then the same caulk to glue to track to the cork roadbed.
For each layer I use a plastering spatula to spread the caulk out into a thin layer.
The 2 differernt heights can be seen in this picture


 

[LIRR]

I’m in HO now, i use HO cork under the mains and passing sidings, N scale under the spurs

[Rivet Miscounter]

Saw a recommendation on Trainboard awhile back for achieving the bevels if cutting your own (thin...3mm in the example) cork.   https://www.amazon.com/Logan-Werks-Cutting-Straight-Bevel/dp/B001JSQX3K   
NOTE: The recommendation was for a slightly different version, aka "last year's model", but it was metal construction versus the plastic one linked to here.  Google "Logan Series 1500" and you'll see it....it's red versus the plastic one is blue.   

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Blades are $11 for a 20-pack on Amazon.  I'm sure that is a needed purchase if you're doing a layout's worth.  https://www.amazon.com/Logan-Graphics-FoamWerks-Replacement-Straight/dp/B003IG7JBQ

[Lemosteam]

Do you just sand the transitions from one height to the next and then deflect the track down?

[C855B]

Do you just sand the transitions from one height to the next and then deflect the track down?

That's how I do it. When transitioning from 1/16" to directly on the foam I'll build a ramp from lightweight spackling and then sand.