Source of Maxon/Faulhaber 4:1 Gearheads

[mmagliaro]

For heating up the gear I was not thinking of a flame to heat. I was thinking of using a soldering tool to apply the heat to the gear only.
A large tipped high watt one so I could get a lot of heat on the gear quickly.
There are some readers on E-Bay for a fair price.
When I started doing motor replacements I got two or three of the readers from 1MM to 4MM to make bushings and such.
But I am tool poor. LOL

Yeah, I wondered about that.  Hold the shaft with some fine tweezers behind the gear, so you can suck up as much heat as you can before it goes into the motor, and hit the end of the gear with a really hot soldering iron.  I don't know.... I guess it might work.  Time to test-sacrifice another motor, I guess!

[peteski]

Yeah, I wondered about that.  Hold the shaft with some fine tweezers behind the gear, so you can suck up as much heat as you can before it goes into the motor, and hit the end of the gear with a really hot soldering iron.  I don't know.... I guess it might work.  Time to test-sacrifice another motor, I guess!

I understand how installing a hot enlarged part onto a cold part works, but how does iti work for remoivng parts?

The outer part (to be removed) is in a very tight contact with the inner part it is installed on, when the outside part is heated, the head it also quickly transferred onto the inner part (because of that tight contact).  So doesn't the inner part also get hot (and expand), not making the outer part's removal any easier?  Can someone explain how that works?

[MK]

Different material so just ever so slight different coefficient of expansion.  Hopefully the outer one has a greater coefficient than the inner one.   

[woodone]

I understand how installing a hot enlarged part onto a cold part works, but how does iti work for remoivng parts?

The outer part (to be removed) is in a very tight contact with the inner part it is installed on, when the outside part is heated, the head it also quickly transferred onto the inner part (because of that tight contact).  So doesn't the inner part also get hot (and expand), not making the outer part's removal any easier?  Can someone explain how that works?

This is why I said to use a large tip hand have it HOT. The principal works just as well in reverse has an install.
BUT—- you have to get the gear hot quick- before the heat can transfer to the shaft- I have done this many times with gears on shafts of larger gears & shafts.

[mmagliaro]

If it's Loctite, I don't think the issue is worrying about heating up the gear before the shaft.  The issue is just getting the Loctite hot right away so it vaporizes and the gear slips off.  I'm assuming the gear will be a slip fit and drop right off once the Loctite melts.  I'm going to go try it now.  You've goaded me enough.  I'll let you know how it goes.

[woodone]

Sorry, I did not mean to twist you arm. lol.  Had to look up what goaded meant .
I am just a farm boy who had to make things work.
BTY. got one more idea.     If you don’t need the gear-  grind off one side of the gear-real close to the shaft bore then heat.
The small amount of metal left will expand real quick.

[mmagliaro]

Well, putting a hot soldering iron (full out, 850 deg F) on the tip of the shaft, with a drop of solder on it to help conduct the heat, did nothing.  Whatever it is that holding that that gear on, it's not adhesive.  It might just be an incredibly tight press fit.  They might press the gear on the shaft, and then slip the shaft into the motor.
Grinding the gear off is not an option for the subject that brought all this up, which was to harvest the gear for other use.

As it happens, I've already posted that you can buy mod 0.2 12-tooth brass geares on eBay with a 1mm bore and they work great.  So I wouldn't even both trying to get this gear off anymore.   If I wanted the motor with the bare shaft, then I'd just run the motor against a diamond file until I ground that darn gear right down to the shaft and it popped off.

[casoken]

Thanks once again Max for your pioneer work on these conversion challenges. Very encouraging. I am at sea and with this work but do not appear to be alone. Any experiments planned fitting that 4:1 on the Faulhaber 1016 ?

[woodone]

Well now we know.
I am surprised that the gear would be pressed on that tight seeing that the shaft is only 1 MM.
I have several motors with gear boxes that I have not even looked at yet- have not had the need.
I would really like to install a 4 to 1, in a Kato Mike.
Slow speed would really be nice. But then I would have to figure out how to get more weight into it.
Model Railroading is fun..




quote author=mmagliaro link=topic=51299.msg698524#msg698524 date=1612934059]
Well, putting a hot soldering iron (full out, 850 deg F) on the tip of the shaft, with a drop of solder on it to help conduct the heat, did nothing.  Whatever it is that holding that that gear on, it's not adhesive.  It might just be an incredibly tight press fit.  They might press the gear on the shaft, and then slip the shaft into the motor.
Grinding the gear off is not an option for the subject that brought all this up, which was to harvest the gear for other use.

As it happens, I've already posted that you can buy mod 0.2 12-tooth brass geares on eBay with a 1mm bore and they work great.  So I wouldn't even both trying to get this gear off anymore.   If I wanted the motor with the bare shaft, then I'd just run the motor against a diamond file until I ground that darn gear right down to the shaft and it popped off.
[/quote]

[mmagliaro]

Thanks once again Max for your pioneer work on these conversion challenges. Very encouraging. I am at sea and with this work but do not appear to be alone. Any experiments planned fitting that 4:1 on the Faulhaber 1016 ?

See page two of this thread.  I already showed that these Maxon gearheads fit right on a Faulhaber 1016.  As long as the 1016 has the standard 12 tooth pinion that they almost always have, it works perfectly.
https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=51299.msg696586#msg696586
You can find Faulhaber 1016's on eBay with a higher ratio gearhead often, like 64:1 or 1024:1, for decent prices.
You could unscrew that gearhead and put this one on.

By now, however, the "cheap" sources of these Maxons with the gearheads have dried up.  There is one guy selling them for $50 right now.  He's the only one left that I could find.

[casoken]

Oops my bad. No excuse. I must read more carefully! On the upside I am gathering the parts needed along with info (when I reread it carefully) all is a challenge and yes, fun.. Thanks again Max for the 4:1 alert.

[metalworkertom]

I have at least 200 of the 1024 : 1 ratio Faulhaber gearheads. Working on cutting some down as I have time. Will let folks know when I have some available.

[mike_lawyer]

I have at least 200 of the 1024 : 1 ratio Faulhaber gearheads. Working on cutting some down as I have time. Will let folks know when I have some available.

Let me know when you cut one down, I am good for about 5 of them!

[mmagliaro]

A tip if you are going to mess around with cut-down gearheads.  It's very easy to end up just a hair short on the length of the gear case, or to have a tiny bit of error in how you cut it so that when you screw it back on a motor, the pinion binds a little unless you unscrew the gearhead a half turn or a turn.  The problem is, you can' t just leave it that way.  Even if it feels "snug", it will move around, and it will behave erratically.  You need some nice thin shim washers that are 6mm ID, 8mm or 9 mm OD and around .010" (0.3mm = .011") thick.

Something like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-50X-M2-M40-Stainless-Steel-Ultra-Thin-Flat-Washer-Ultrathin-Shim-Plain-Gasket/164573184907?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=464175123541&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

NWSL also makes something great for this in phosphor bronze:
Part  1118-4 for 100 of them or   118-4  for 4.

And you want "shim" washers - precision uniform thickness, not the relatively sloppy things you buy in a hardware store.

Here's a photo that summarizes everything about the shim washers.   AND... this photo shows that brass pinion I found on eBay.  Works like a charm.

[Kentuckian]

I have at least 200 of the 1024 : 1 ratio Faulhaber gearheads. Working on cutting some down as I have time. Will let folks know when I have some available.

I’m good for one!