Painting Atlas S2 nylon handrails

[randgust]

OK, well, normally I make a policy of changing all locomotive handrails over to brass wire, mostly for appearance, then durability, and the ability to hold paint.

So I just got an Atlas S2, and those handrails are really nice.   Darn thin and incredibly flexible though.   I've seen monofilament fishing line with about that same flexibility.

No way they are going to hold normal acrylic paint or likely even Badger.

I've dug through old threads and it seems like the Tamiya paint is the first choice for painting nylon handrails, but the basic flat colors (black, yellow, white) are out of stock everywhere I've looked including the auction sites.   No local stores within 100 miles here, either, that have a decent paint stock.

Current ideas or substitutes?    I can always do the brass wire trick that I'm good at, but it wouldn't be for the appearance reasons.  I'm very skeptical that any adhesion promoter would help either, considering how fine these handrails are - super flexible.   Intent will be to brush-apply.

[bman]

I either use the RC body paint from Tamiya or Microscale's Micro Prep. The Micro Prep is a bit pricey but works for using AC to repair and/or paint the handrails on my locos.

[dem34]

Could also use a Fine Tamiya Primer from a Rattlecan as a base layer. Though that's another layer of paint on something that needs to be fine.

[randgust]

Yikes, I'm realizing that Tamiya flat paint and Tamiya RC paint are two different animals, and to have it shipped to me runs about $18 a can, spray only, which really isn't an option.

The Microscale stuff appears to be available, I need to order some decals anyway.

[coosvalley]

I would reccomend Plastic Adhesion Promotor, a product available from several different MFRs. I got mine through Napa Auto parts. Its a clear thin film that makes paint stick.It comes in a spray can, and is an evaporative formula, so has no real thickness to it.  Here is an example of an Atlas S2 that I used it on:

[Sharky_McSharknose]

If you can remove the handrails without breaking them, you can spray them with automotive plastic adhesion promoter, then paint them. You can get a can of adhesion promoter from the body parts section of some auto parts stores or from an auto paint supplier willing to sell retail.

A company called Duratrax makes airbrush-compatible polycarbonate paint, similar to the old Pactra line from Testors. I have some leftover Pactra that I use to make the safety paint on the handrail ends. The Pactra yellow is a little bright. Duratrax's Mellow Yellow may be closer to real-life safety yellow.

[JMaurer1]

When all else fails, I use a silver Sharpie permanent felt pen. SP handrails should always be white, but if I don't have any white flex paint available, I use the silver pen. Better than nothing and it adds no thickness to the handrails. Also seems to make later paint stick better.

[CRL]

Silver in some lighting will appear to be white.

[MK]

Yikes, I'm realizing that Tamiya flat paint and Tamiya RC paint are two different animals, and to have it shipped to me runs about $18 a can, spray only, which really isn't an option.

The Microscale stuff appears to be available, I need to order some decals anyway.

Amain Hobbies charges just under $10 to ship Tamiya spray cans across the country, ground only.  Not cheap but cheap-er than $18.

[peteski]

First of all, I doubt it is Nylon. More likely POM (aka. Delrin).  Either way, a slippery plastic.

I haven't painted any of those for a long time, but last time I did it, I used the "belt and suspenders" method.  I first sandblasted them using Badger mini sandblaster and their aluminum oxide blasting medium.  That made the handrails nice and rough.  That probably woudl have been enough for any paint to stick to them, but I first painted them with the Pactra paint for the polycarbonate RC model bodies. Then, since the color was not an exact match (BAR green), I sprayed the final coat of color using appropriate Accu-Paint color.  I applied the paint in thin layers, and it is stuck to the handrail  like a tick to a dog!  No adhesion promoter needed (but sandblasting is a bit of a pain).

[robert3985]

What works for me very well is an automotive "flex" additive for making various kinds of paint flexible....for painting flexible plastic bumper covers on cars and trucks etc. 

Look up "flex additive for automotive paint" on Google and you'll find various brands that should work fine for you.  If you have a local auto body paint supply store, they'll have it too.

What this does is make the paint flexible so it doesn't crack and separate from the flexible plastic handrails and it works with all brands of lacquers, enamels and urethanes:  https://www.amazon.com/CP-9600-Universal-Additive-16oz-1Pint/dp/B01N35TPUX

There are several brands, and as long as they are "universal" any of them should work fine with your model paint.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[u18b]

In addition to all of the above answers - which are paint oriented....

My solution suggestion which I employ is mechanical.   I use an air eraser (sand blasting) and etch the rails.  Paint then adheres well since the surface is pitted and no longer glassy smooth.

[peteski]

In addition to all of the above answers - which are paint oriented....

My solution suggestion which I employ is mechanical.   I use an air eraser (sand blasting) and etch the rails.  Paint then adheres well since the surface is pitted and no longer glassy smooth.

That was my earlier suggestion too.  Looks like great minds think alike. 

[u18b]

That was my earlier suggestion too.  Looks like great minds think alike. 

Oops. sorry.  Sometimes i skim/read too fast.   

[peteski]

Oops. sorry.  Sometimes i skim/read too fast.   

No harm done, and now at least 2 people mentioning using the same method.