Airbrush / paint booth set up Q's

[SandyEggoJake]

I've recently installed a "new to me" spray booth in my garage, and now I'm trying to build out an airbrush rig for it.

Up to this point, I've been using a vintage badger in a crappy hardboard box vented out the window in my model room.  But the noise and fumes limited my ability to use whenever I wished. 
This new set up allows better sound isolation, venting, lighting, etc.  Trying to also upgrade my airbrush game too... hence the following question.



As an air source, I'm planning to plumb it to my Husky 50gal 135 psi max industrial compressor, which sits right next to it.   My question is has anyone built an airline suitable for such a mate?

To date this tank has been connected to a forked dedicated airline with conditioning components; Lower air line, with reg and oiler for oiled tools, and the upper airline with reg & water trap & dryer for HPLV & sand blasting. Both of these lines are using Harbor Freight components and their design.



As I don't often use the HPLV line, thinking to rebuild it for the airbrush station. 

The reg isn't that precise though (Range 0 to 135).  And as the water trap and dryer has sat between the tank and the reg, so the material get consumed fast as it dries the entire tank at high pressure. 

I'm thinking to rebuild it this time by switching the reg to first position, then the dryer (to reduce consumption - if I remember to shut off each ends when done) and then also using a 2nd stage / inline regulator just before the airbrush.  The current reg would be a first stage that drops the pressure to say high range of working pressure ...  taking it from 135pst of the tank down to say 40 psi?  Then dry at this lower pressure with the inline 2nd stage allowing fine adjustments in the 10- to 40 range? 

Also open to suggestions on better in line regs to buy for this 2nd stage purpose.  I've read that pressure adjustment of such a 2nd stage is more a "feel" thing, and I don't want to add a lot of weight and bulk to the airbrush end.  So thinking this 2nd stage would be something simple but allowing precise adjustment....

something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KDSRQY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMVdDT0pFUkZaMUU5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzU4MTE0MzFOMVFFQTE5UExSMCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDQ2NjMwMjc4MUZGRUMyNTdUUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbDImYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Thoughts?

 

[Lemosteam]

YES, YESE YES on the Amazon quick connects.  Buy LOTS of them. Plumbing between your air lines and the airbrush line, can be tricky with standard fittings so bring them with you when you go to the hardware store.  They seal off nicely when nothing is connected to them too, so you can add a Y configuration if you want to have more than one tool connected to your plumbing.  I keep my air eraser line and my airbrush line connected at all times, so I am not reconnecting multiple times.  I wish there was a male QC to male thread connector for these though, because most flex lines have female at both ends.

I use the same regulator and do not find a need for secondary regulation that the airbrush.  Dual action airbrushes provide enough regulation IMHO.  Maybe this would help with a single action airbrush, I don't know.

Unfortunately I cannot remember if they seal on NPT fittings or compression threads better.  You can use some gas line (yellow) thread tape as well.

[SandyEggoJake]

Thanks John.

Since my original post, I've started to look into a version using a manifold.  Thought here?  Given your advice, thinking this might suffice to also serve as a 2nd stage / cutoff?

Was considering an all in one, 4 way manifold & holder ...


https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Splitter-Manifold-Airbrushes/dp/B08777P542/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C8R5E4C5S37YZJZNXQ93

...but now leaning to stand alone components, of say a splitter or manifold w/ adjusts (that I can mount to the support frame), and separate holder.




Also pondering making a dust / door, fashioned out of plexi.  Nothing overly complex, but thinking a hinged sheet that swings out to the right, with corner magnet holds and a strip foam seal.  Such may help keep dust down in the box, and off drying parts, as my garage also includes a number of wood working tools.... I know... not ideal.   Might also stop using this box as a handy shelf to stow crap....

[Chris333]

I bet with all those separators you still get water.

[Lemosteam]

I bet with all those separators you still get water.

OK Cruella. 

[Chris333]

Just sayin' I have a 60 gallon compressor out in the garage with 3 separators on it that still spitted water. I had to re-route the line from the pump to the tank through a radiator to get rid of the water.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1795243.jpg

Meanwhile my smaller compressor in the basement has no separator at all and never gets water.

[SandyEggoJake]

That's crazy... smart... I guess.    Would work even better if you submerged the radiator in an ice bath. 

Luckily, I've not seen major issues yet I was using it as a HPLV line with a short hose (ex. spraying varnish). 

As a big tank, it does accumulate, but I keep it dry via the bleeder line off at the bottom and not filling it in the heat of the day.  Part of my thinking to move the dryer AFTER the reg and using a 2 reg system is - theoretically - it should perform better scrubbing the air.   Cooler, lower pressure air holds ALOT less water, right? 

[Chris333]

From what I hear most of the water is from heat. The line coming off the pump to the radiator cannot be touched and it is starting to turn colors from the heat. The same line going to the tank from the radiator is cool to the touch. And my radiator doesn't even have a fan! Since I haven't had water since I never hooked up the fan. Also have a drain at the bottom, but it doesn't drain as much as it used to.

There are a million ways to add a drying radiator if you search on Youtube. Some people just zig-zag an air line up and down a wall to cool off the air before going into the tank. One guy had a line coiled up into a garbage can full of water to cool off the air.

I have a conduit that runs under the driveway from the house to the garage, but instead of trying to snake a 100' air line through it I just bought another smaller compressor for the basement.

[SandyEggoJake]

>From what I hear most of the water is from heat.

Kinda right... Boyle's law shows heat and pressure are related; gas heats when it is being compressed / cools when expanding.  Hot high compressed air will indeed contain far more moisture than cold decompressed air. 
 
But I'm thinking by running your pump into that small bore tube, you are getting not only the full impact of Boyle law on a small amount of air & metal, but also heat transfer from the pump and more turbulent flow issues.  But I can see how your rig keeps your tank nice and dry - useful for big job requiring >20 CFM air supply.

But for n scale model airbrushing? 

I'm thinking the amount of air I'll be using will be so small as I'll rarely need to run freshly pumped air.  My 50 gal tank (a huge heat sink in itself), bled of liquid water will be close to ambient temp at 135psi.  As I make a pull, it will expand to say 20 psi and cool considerably, with the post reg trap collecting condensate, and the desiccants scrubs the air.  Don't know till I test, but don't you think this will be more than adequate?  I'd be surprised if the air humidity coming out the end of the airbrush nozzle using just say 0.5 CFM would be much different than ambient.   I mean, won't it be far drier than the air that went into the tank?   

Thanks for the help! 

[Chris333]

I guess you can try it 

Really for just air brushing I have no idea. I had water with one separator and ran over to Harbor Freight and bought 2 more. I still got water. It would even spit when I un-did the quick disconnects. Was in the summer time though.

Just figured you were out in the garage with all those separators just like me...