For those baking their paint jobs

[Lemosteam]

When using an over or toaster oven to bake their models, I am considering buying a toaster oven for this purpose and I am wondering: 

What is the max temp you like to go?

Are the temps for brass and plastic different?

Have you ever experienced CA separation in glued joints at those temps?

Is the goal to dry the paint faster using heat to evaporate or dehumidify the model for faster drying?

Is the goal to help the paint adhere to the surface better?

Thanks in advance.

[glakedylan]

just a head's up...you probably already know this...toaster ovens are notorious for variance in actual temperature from dial setting.


sincerely
Gary

[C855B]

A bit of firsthand advice from Robyn's experience with polymer clays - shop carefully. Aside from the temperature inaccuracy Gary mentioned, too many of these small ovens heat very unevenly.

I don't know how good online reviews are going to be since most are anecdotal; it may be worth your while to navigate Consumer Reports' paywall to get their technical analysis since they are acutely aware of the issues.

[Lemosteam]

Yeah, real ovens aren't that great either.  Planning to use a good oven thermometer to validate temps, so my questions are purely hypothetical.

[sd45elect2000]

I have several methods of baking paint especially on metal models. I have an infrared thermometer so I can bake a model on the workbench with a light bulb and closely monitor overall temp. I have placed a model in an oven and ran a cord with a light bulb to bake the model. I've also used other types of metal and wooden boxes. I usually don't exceed 110 degrees. For the plastic and shapeways models I never put them in a box, i leave them in a corner of a workbench and keep a light on them and closely monitor the temp.

I like the result of degassing the paint as it leaves a smoother finish that is more resistant to dust and doesn't pull off the model when I'm removing masking.

Randy

[chicken45]

Well, if you used a convection oven, your consistency will improve. You can also put in some pizza stones or equivalent mass to help regulate temperatures.
Yes, it's a thing. Some folks leave their pizza stones in the oven all the time. It takes longer to preheat, but it helps even things out.

[chicken45]

I was also under the impression that you should only bake soldered brass, not CA'd brass or any plastic.
I've burnt CA before by trying to solder an adjacent piece of brass. The heat transmitted right over and burnt it and made it brittle.

People always tell others to heat up plastic to fix warping. I can't imagine baking a plastic shell going well.
Don't we we only bake it because it is a process that specifically helps certain types of paint adhere to brass?

[peteski]

I have several methods of baking paint especially on metal models. I have an infrared thermometer so I can bake a model on the workbench with a light bulb and closely monitor overall temp. I have placed a model in an oven and ran a cord with a light bulb to bake the model. I've also used other types of metal and wooden boxes. I usually don't exceed 110 degrees. For the plastic and shapeways models I never put them in a box, i leave them in a corner of a workbench and keep a light on them and closely monitor the temp.

I like the result of degassing the paint as it leaves a smoother finish that is more resistant to dust and doesn't pull off the model when I'm removing masking.

Randy

For low baking temps like 110 deg. F I have been using a food dehydrator for few decades now.  This method of accelerating paint drying is very popular with the automotive modeler crowd (which I'm one of).  Food dehydrators are relatively inexpensive, the heat is distributed rather evenly, plus since low 100s is their normal operating temperature, there is no chances of the parts being dried overheating or melting.

My dehydrator is very simple - it is a plastic enclosure with a 40W heating element in the bottom of it. No thermostats or adjustment other than opening and closing vents on the top and bottom of the unit.  I have a thermometer installed to monitor it and I have the vents adjusted for around 110 degrees.  There are fancier dehydrators out there, with variable temperature adjustment, but I like the KISS principal, and mine has been successfully drying my models since approximately 1987.    I have not had any problems with plastic, urethane resin or metal parts.

But I suspect that John is interested in higher temperature baking for metal models.  Tobe honest, I really don't see a need for that type of baking. My dehydrator dries paints quickly to a hard finish.

John, you asked few more questions.  I believe the elevated temperature speeds up solvent evaporation of lacquers and enamels, and enamels also have the added benefit of the heat curing them faster (it is a chemical reaction after the solvent evaporates).  Heated air is also less humid, and that also aids in solvent evaporation.

[ednadolski]

Is it really necessary to bake at all, with modern paints (esp. acrylics)?

Ed

[peteski]

Is it really necessary to bake at all, with modern paints (esp. acrylics)?

Ed

My main goal is to speed up drying (and I still use mostly stinky paints - Floquil, Testors, Accu-Paint, Tru-Color Paint, Scalecoat II).  And for model automobiles I use automotive touch-up paints and even nail polishes.

[NtheBasement]

This time of year I just put the model on a heat register and let my home furnace supply the heat and airflow.