Author Topic: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech  (Read 1003 times)

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keeper

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Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« on: August 17, 2020, 05:01:45 AM »
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Hi everyone,

I'm trying to figure out what might be the best way for a Kato F3A old mech decoder installation. Never done it with one of those.

http://www.spookshow.net/loco/files/katofoldmech.jpg
Photo Spookshow

I searched a bit but haven't found something. Obviously it is not a plug 'n play thing.
So it will be either some sort of wired decoder or maybe a ESU Loksound micro V4 decoder ( I have a spare one....).
Is there something where some sort of special attention is required?

Thomas
Thomas

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RBrodzinsky

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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2020, 09:49:11 AM »
+2
Lots of milling to put a sound decoder in, just a little for motor/lights only.  The key is to make sure the motor is fully isolated from frame (Kapton tape is your friend). Personally, I would mill a small pocket to put in a LokPilot 5 Micro DCC
Rick Brodzinsky
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garethashenden

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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2020, 11:22:03 AM »
+2
I just installed a V5 Loksound decoder in an F7. The particular locomotive was bought used and someone had already done some milling for a rather large Digitrax decoder. The motor contacts were clipped off so that the frames didn't touch them and a channel was made up one side for a wire to run in. I'm not going to disassemble the engine to photograph that, but its pretty straight forward. It should be doable with a Dremel if you don't have a mill. On top I enlarged the existing pocket to fit both the speaker and decoder. The metal is pretty soft, a piecing saw didn't have any trouble. For the decoder pocket I used the Dremel since I didn't need a full width slot.
The tricky part was getting power from the frames to the decoder. I removed the light board and replicated it with a piece of thin pcb. I gapped this down the middle and soldered one wire either side. I think it was slightly loose, so I tinned the whole surface to give it a tiny bit more thickness. That was put back where the light had been, but now there was no light. So I took another thicker piece of pcb and made a little circuit on top of it, an led, a resistor, and two contacts for the wires. This was glued onto the frame contact board in such a way that it didn't short out. I added a capacitor in the cab, then it was a pretty simple speaker enclosure and we're mostly done. Bit of Kapton tape here and there, programming, sounds pretty good.



rodsup9000

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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2020, 11:31:33 AM »
+1
  I'm using the old style frames on almost all the Kato F units that are on my layout. I think I milled 52 Kato F frames in one setting when I milled them.

 Theses were milled on a Bridgeport mill
























Rodney

My Feather River Canyon in N-scale
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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2020, 11:48:22 AM »
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Thanks to you all for the info, very useful to me.  :)
Thomas

Ageing is inevitable - maturity is optional.

nightmare0331

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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2020, 11:50:10 AM »
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If you have access to a mill as others have posted it's not rocket surgery to make it happen.

Don't know if I'd attempt it without a mill though as Dremel Warrioring this one probably isn't the best idea as you can get some strange stresses and heat build up.

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2020, 12:11:11 PM »
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Milling is the problem as I don't have one but I will find a way to get it done.
Thomas

Ageing is inevitable - maturity is optional.

keeper

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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #7 on: August 21, 2020, 02:10:41 PM »
+1
Milling problem solved, I ordered a small Proxxon mill which seems to be good quality for a good price.

Thomas  :)
Thomas

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CRL

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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #8 on: August 21, 2020, 03:16:10 PM »
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Those old Kato F3’s are basically 4 axle bricks... meaning they are very heavy so you can mill as much as you need and not hurt their pulling ability.

mmyers

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Re: Decoder Installation Kato F3A old mech
« Reply #9 on: August 23, 2020, 06:10:58 PM »
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I did several of these many years ago using Digitrax DN93's. Milling was pretty much the same as Rodney's. Little larger cutout for the large decoder. I had tried a Southern Digital replacement frame on the first one but it was a piece of junk. Later I changed  the decoders out to newer smaller decoders and  added lead back in the extra space.

Martin Myers