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The Independent Brake is probably something else you want to try. And for these features, I like having LOTS of momentum - I'd set the momentum at 120 for the old LokSound Select (I think that translates to about 40 for the LokSound 5). I've also found that remapping Drive Hold, Indepedent Brake, Run 8 and Coast are very useful to actually using them. I've assigned them to F3, F4, F5 and F6, respectively. How you want to set it up depends a lot on what throttle you're using and how you use it, but you HAVE to assign Run 8 and Coast if you're going to use those, because they aren't pre-assigned to a function key (at least, not in the LokSound Selects; don't remember about the LokSound 5).
What fun stuff do you want, Ed?Here's an article I found useful, and pretty much ended up where this person did:https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/28614The Independent Brake is probably something else you want to try. And for these features, I like having LOTS of momentum - I'd set the momentum at 120 for the old LokSound Select (I think that translates to about 40 for the LokSound 5). I've also found that remapping Drive Hold, Indepedent Brake, Run 8 and Coast are very useful to actually using them. I've assigned them to F3, F4, F5 and F6, respectively. How you want to set it up depends a lot on what throttle you're using and how you use it, but you HAVE to assign Run 8 and Coast if you're going to use those, because they aren't pre-assigned to a function key (at least, not in the LokSound Selects; don't remember about the LokSound 5). If you have a LokSound 5 (probably not, if this is a factory sound unit) you can do many interesting things with the sound file - like program your own custom grade crossing sequence for the horn. Add flashing ditch lights that automatically flash whenever you blow the horn, though that would probably take some re-work of the lights (adding more LEDs and wiring them to the Aux functions of the board) that is a lot more work than just programming.John C.
I like lots of momentum, too. In fact, I settled on the max on V4.0 decoders and am using a similar value on V5.0 decoders, which can have even more momentum. I think this is around 63 seconds from full speed to stop, if I remember correctly.I have mine set up as follows to work specifically with the ProtoThrottle (but do what works for you):F0: Front headlight (high beam)F1: HornF2: BellF3: Front headlight (low beam)F4: Dynamic brake or coast (depending on whether your loco has dynamic braking)F5: Gyralight or auxiliary lighting (if loco equipped)F6: Rear headlight (high beam)F7: Rear headlight (low beam)F8: Sound on/offF9: Drive HoldF10: Independent brakeF11: Radiator fansF12: Empty (I do not need the dimmer effect here- see F3 and F7 above)F13: Empty (at present, I don't need this AUX lighting function here, either, because my era does not have ditch lights- see F5 above)F14 and above: the default sound effects on the decoder, e.g., spitters, compressorNote: I do not use directional headlights, which now make me cringe.Once you get used to this, it becomes a game changer, and going back to the old way of running trains is not nearly as pleasant anymore.DFF
Ok, I spent some time playing with JMRI last night and I can't figure out which screen and field I need to use to map one of the function keys to the brake functionality. Any suggestions?
This is where you buy a ProtoThrottle instead of a lokprogrammer (and worry about fitting a different board in your DCC box)!In all honesty, I remapped zero functions on my GP38-2 decoder and it all worked on the ProtoThrottle out of the box. The AUX button on the ProtoThrottle is already mapped to drive hold on at least the V4.0 ESU decoders and same is true of the brake function and the ProtoThrottle brake handle.
I also want to see if I can improve performance of the brake function, I still feel like it is too on/off feeling vs a gradual application.
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Topic: Programming Loksound decoders for maximum fun using JMRI (Read 4528 times)
