B&O Cincinnatian scratchbuild

[SkipGear]

I've been bouncing around with this in various topics so I thought it would probably be best to start one topic so questions can be asked and answered.



This train is what kicked me back into model railroading 20 years ago, after leaving it for Radio Control car racing in my 20's. Turns out the Cincinnatian used to run through my current home town on the tracks that are still in use by Indiana & Ohio, now a G&W owned entity. I started the build 15 years ago with the locomotive. Based on a MP Pacific Mechanism and an all brass scratchbuilt boiler, valve gear, and tender. The loco runs but is stalled at finishing up the eccentric rods and reverse gear. The tender body sets on a modified Con-cor Hudson tender underframe which may get replaced with Bachmann parts after their Hudson arrives.




This is where this project got stuck quite a few years back. Needing to clear my head and look at something different than the valve gear for a while, I started contemplating how to make the cars. My original though was to use Rivarossi cars as cores and use my vinyl cutter to create replacement side overlays. I could not get the consistency and quality i wanted on the window cut outs to make me happy and so those got shelved.

Jump ahead 10+ years and now it seems 3d printing at home is a viable solution. I took advantage of the downtime during the initial Covid shutdowns to dive into 3d printing and give this another go. I hope to use this topic to keep me on track long enough to finish the train this time. I will post a quick rundown of building the loco first and then get caught up with the progress on the cars. Stay tuned for more.

[gary60s]

3D at home seems to be everyones dream. Good luck.

[SkipGear]

I need to update this with progress. There are lot's of build photo's to add to get caught up to where I am at. Maybe this weekend.

The baggage print is just about complete. Just received some new resin that I want to try to see if it is a little less brittle and more forgiving.

Been working slowly on drawing the observation. Lot's of compound curves are keeping it interesting.

[craigolio1]

Looks like a great start on the locomotive! Looking forward to seeing progress on the whole train!

Craig

[ChristianJDavis1]

I have to ask; what are you doing with the "reject" prints? Also, do you plan on releasing these files for sale or is this just a labor of love personal project?

[SkipGear]

I have to ask; what are you doing with the "reject" prints? Also, do you plan on releasing these files for sale or is this just a labor of love personal project?

Currently it is a labor of love but if when I'm done, I feel the quality is worthy of it, I may create kits. I would have to create a printed shell for the loco and tender if it goes that direction, which I may do anyhow because I would like to have a second loco as a backup.

[SkipGear]

Got a little side tracked from this project with the Print a Caboose thread for @wm3798 .



Now that I have proved I can print paint ready models, it's time to get back to work on the Cincinnatian. I think I can actually print well enough to create a kinematic style coupler to keep the full width diaphragms in close contact but that is engineering I haven't quite figured out yet.

[bbussey]

Tony, why not just utilize the Kato kinematic couplers?  They use it on the PRR Broadway Limited between the kitchen and diner, and I think on their SP Daylights that have full diaphragms.

[SkipGear]

The couplers still need slots and guides molded into the floor of the model. I wasn't sure I could replicate them smooth enough to function correctly. I think I can now. I probably will use the Kato molded coupler part in a printed guide slot on the model. I have a couple boxes of them left over from the Daylight sets at the store that I can play with. Also need to look to see if the shape of the slots change relative to the length of the car and the placement of the truck bolsters.

[bbussey]

Agreed, incorporating the Kato floor-ends into your printed floors should work.

[SkipGear]

With the caboose project pretty much finalized, got a chance to run a test of the Eden Park on the new printer. Mildy impressed to say the least. This goes against everything the "experts" say on how to print this type of object. Printed flat, parallel to the build plate, no tilt in any direction. The only issue I have is my supports were not strong enough on the very ends of the car and the ends pulled away slightly at some point and warped up. Easily fixable.



This is after a light sanding with 2000 grit sand paper on the roof and a quick shot of Tamiya fine gray primer.

[Chris333]

This is how I print just about everything and make up for it with extra supports in the corners.

[Cajonpassfan]

Dang, Tony, that is impressive! Very nice!
Otto

[SkipGear]

Started work on the Kinematic coupler system for the cars. This plate will use the Kinematic couplers offered for the Kato Daylight set. It's basically a copy of the Kato car floor that the coupler clips into. More work to go but it's a start. Will run a test print this weekend I hope.

[Lemosteam]

Started work on the Kinematic coupler system for the cars. This plate will use the Kinematic couplers offered for the Kato Daylight set. It's basically a copy of the Kato car floor that the coupler clips into. More work to go but it's a start. Will run a test print this weekend I hope.

Tony, you might as well copy the link too as you will find that the resin will be plenty strong enough to withstand the load.

I designed some FUD kinematic links for the BLI P70's that work quite well.