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I had some Kato SD40-2 wheels lying around (2nd generation). They are pretty close. 0.253" diam, .065" total wid, tread is about .045". I don't think anybody would notice a .006" different in diameter or a .007" difference in wheel width, especially on a diesel where the wheel is mostly hidden behind the sidframes. I was able press the half-axle out of it pretty easily and drill the center hole to 1.45mm (I could go to 1.5, but if I were doing this, I'd try 1.45 first and see how the press-fit goes on the Arnold axle). I'd have to really see them on an engine to see if they stand out as "different". They have very fine flanges on them, and I don't think the SW-1 flanges are as small, so it might be noticeable. Other diesels I have would probably be an ever better match - something a little older where the wheel width and flange height would be bigger than the modern Kato SD-40-2.
I've got three of them... The pickup on two is lousy. The 3rd is OK, but not equal of the Bachmann switchers I have, my Kato NW2 and my two VO-1000's, which are the two most reliable switchers I have.
Good LUCK on getting parts. I just always used BULL FROG SNOT. If the stuff don't set up like I want it to, I just pull it off with a toothpick and redo it.Trying to get parts for older, out of catalog, engines is a waste of time. You might get lucky and find somebody with a junk engine or such.
My intention was always that if one changed out wheels from some other readily available source, like modern Kato or Atlas, you would have to change them all. I didn't explain what I meant about the size being "close enough". Yes, even a .006" difference is too much to "get away with" with regard to the truck geometry.Having said this... I forgot that I actually own one of these Arnold SW-1's and I had changed my wheels out ages ago to get rid of the traction tires. I used wheels off the old Arnold S2. I had some spares because of the cracked gears in those old S-2 engines.The S2 wheels are the exact correct diameter (.247"). But they had huge flanges that I had to turn down, and I did have to bore out the axle holes to 1.5mm to put them on the SW-1 axles. I can't remember, but I think I narrowed the tread width on my S2 wheelsets so they wouldn't short on switch frogs. As I recall, the original S2 wheels were really wide, but maybe I don't remember that correctly.And having said THAT, today I decided to go through the exercise of replacing all the wheels on my SW-1 with modern Kato wheels. I am boring them all out and installing 8 new wheels. I want to see how difficult (or not) and practical this is. This is made terrifically easier by the fact that I did... FINALLY... buy myself a lathe a few months ago.I will post photos of how this looks when I'm done with it, probably later today.
...And having said THAT, today I decided to go through the exercise of replacing all the wheels on my SW-1 with modern Kato wheels. I am boring them all out and installing 8 new wheels. I want to see how difficult (or not) and practical this is. This is made terrifically easier by the fact that I did... FINALLY... buy myself a lathe a few months ago.I will post photos of how this looks when I'm done with it, probably later today.
So Max, you will still end up with the Arnold insulated wheel and a "new" wheel electrically connected to the axle? So you can only make as many replacment wheelsets as you have the old Arnold S2 locos?