Arnold SW-1 Parts source?

[tehachapifan]

I had some Kato SD40-2 wheels lying around (2nd generation).  They are pretty close.  0.253" diam, .065" total wid, tread is about .045".   I don't think anybody would notice a .006" different in diameter or a .007" difference in wheel width, especially on a diesel where the wheel is mostly hidden behind the sidframes.  I was able press the half-axle out of it pretty easily and drill the center hole to 1.45mm (I could go to 1.5, but if I were doing this, I'd try 1.45 first and see how the press-fit goes on the Arnold axle).  I'd have to really see them on an engine to see if they stand out as "different".  They have very fine flanges on them, and I don't think the SW-1 flanges are as small, so it might be noticeable.   Other diesels I have would probably be an ever better match - something a little older where the wheel width and flange height would be bigger than the modern Kato SD-40-2.

But do these locos use the typical axle point/cup pickup arrangement like on Kato or Atlas wheelsets? Looking at Spookshow, these units' wheelsets appear to employ blunt axle ends. It also appears these wheelsets have a metal axle sleeve(?) that I'm guessing transfers power to the truck assemblies via bearings on the inside of the wheels. I may need to go look at mine to verify all this.

[peteski]

All you wanted to know, and even things you didn't know you wanted to know about SW1 are covered in https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=37191.0. That includes electrical and mechanical details, and lots of general discussion.

That includes wheelset photos like this:

[peteski]

I've got three of them... The pickup on two is lousy.  The 3rd is OK, but not equal of the Bachmann switchers I have, my Kato NW2 and my two VO-1000's, which are the two most reliable switchers I have. 

Since this model uses the "old-school" wheel-back wipers, the likely problem is that those wipers are not adjusted properly (not enough tension against the wheel).  Unfortunately you have to disassemble the truck to readjust those wipers.

[peteski]

I had some Kato SD40-2 wheels lying around (2nd generation).  They are pretty close.  0.253" diam, .065" total wid, tread is about .045".   I don't think anybody would notice a .006" different in diameter or a .007" difference in wheel width, especially on a diesel where the wheel is mostly hidden behind the sidframes.  I was able press the half-axle out of it pretty easily and drill the center hole to 1.45mm (I could go to 1.5, but if I were doing this, I'd try 1.45 first and see how the press-fit goes on the Arnold axle).  I'd have to really see them on an engine to see if they stand out as "different".  They have very fine flanges on them, and I don't think the SW-1 flanges are as small, so it might be noticeable.   Other diesels I have would probably be an ever better match - something a little older where the wheel width and flange height would be bigger than the modern Kato SD-40-2.

If by "2nd generation", you mean the current Kato wheels (narrow tread and shallow flanges) then they are way different than the Arnold wheels.  While not  pizza cutters" Arnold wheels are more like the old Kato (or current Atlas) wheels.  See earlier posts (or the SW1 tread I mentioned above) for photos of the wheels.

[mmagliaro]

Yes, they are finer flanged, and nicer looking.  If you really want them to match in appearance, you would have to change out all 8 of the Arnold wheels.  I think some earlier Atlas/Kato wheels would be a better match.
In answer to another post, no the Arnold wheels are not axle-point style.  The are blunt.  But since I pressed the Kato wheel off its original axle and drilled the wheel hole out to 1.5mm, I would then press it onto the Arnold axle and there would be no trouble there.

[coosvalley]

I bought extras, and cannibalized them for the wheels. But this was when they were cheap on Ebay. Plus, now I have plenty of spare parts! I think I was able to swap enough things around that I could have 5 that run and 2 donor units..

[porkypine52]

Good LUCK on getting parts.  I just always used BULL FROG SNOT.  If the stuff don't set up like I want it to, I just pull it off with a toothpick and redo it.
Trying to get parts for older, out of catalog, engines is a waste of time.  You might get lucky and find somebody with a junk engine or such. 


Diesels?!?!?!  We don't need NO stinkin' DIESELS!
The INDIANA RAILWAY--100% STEAM POWERED in 2020.

Don't look back, something might be gaining on you.  Satchel Paige

[TimF]

Ed, here you'll get the parts needed

https://www.arnold-ersatzteile.de/mediapool/60/605716/data/Eigene_Dateien_5/HN2258.pdf

I've sent you a PM

Tim

[garethashenden]

I had some Kato SD40-2 wheels lying around (2nd generation).  They are pretty close.  0.253" diam, .065" total wid, tread is about .045".   I don't think anybody would notice a .006" different in diameter or a .007" difference in wheel width, especially on a diesel where the wheel is mostly hidden behind the sidframes.  I was able press the half-axle out of it pretty easily and drill the center hole to 1.45mm (I could go to 1.5, but if I were doing this, I'd try 1.45 first and see how the press-fit goes on the Arnold axle).  I'd have to really see them on an engine to see if they stand out as "different".  They have very fine flanges on them, and I don't think the SW-1 flanges are as small, so it might be noticeable.   Other diesels I have would probably be an ever better match - something a little older where the wheel width and flange height would be bigger than the modern Kato SD-40-2.

You might not notice the difference in diameter, but I bet the truck would. It would rock between two corners and preform even worse than it does now.

[peteski]

Good LUCK on getting parts.  I just always used BULL FROG SNOT.  If the stuff don't set up like I want it to, I just pull it off with a toothpick and redo it.
Trying to get parts for older, out of catalog, engines is a waste of time.  You might get lucky and find somebody with a junk engine or such. 

We are discussing getting rid of, not installing the traction tires (or other electrical insulation solution).  Also, Arnold SW1 is a recently produced model, not something from the '60s. 

[mmagliaro]

My intention was always that if one changed out wheels from some other readily available source, like modern Kato or Atlas, you would have to change them all.   I didn't explain what I meant about the size being "close enough".  Yes, even a .006" difference is too much to "get away with" with regard to the truck geometry.

Having said this... I forgot that I actually own one of these Arnold SW-1's and I had changed my wheels out ages ago to get rid of the traction tires.  I used wheels off the old Arnold S2.  I had some spares because of the cracked gears in those old S-2 engines.
The S2 wheels are the exact correct diameter (.247").  But they had huge flanges that I had to turn down, and I did have to bore out the axle holes to 1.5mm to put them on the SW-1 axles.   I can't remember, but I think I narrowed the tread width on my S2 wheelsets so they wouldn't short on switch frogs.  As I recall, the original S2 wheels were really wide, but maybe I don't remember that correctly.

And having said THAT, today I decided to go through the exercise of replacing all the wheels on my SW-1 with modern Kato wheels. I am boring them all out and installing 8 new wheels.   I want to see how difficult (or not) and practical this is.   This is made terrifically easier by the fact that I did... FINALLY... buy myself a lathe a few months ago.

I will post photos of how this looks when I'm done with it, probably later today.

[wazzou]

Next? @mmagliaro   

[tehachapifan]

My intention was always that if one changed out wheels from some other readily available source, like modern Kato or Atlas, you would have to change them all.   I didn't explain what I meant about the size being "close enough".  Yes, even a .006" difference is too much to "get away with" with regard to the truck geometry.

Having said this... I forgot that I actually own one of these Arnold SW-1's and I had changed my wheels out ages ago to get rid of the traction tires.  I used wheels off the old Arnold S2.  I had some spares because of the cracked gears in those old S-2 engines.
The S2 wheels are the exact correct diameter (.247").  But they had huge flanges that I had to turn down, and I did have to bore out the axle holes to 1.5mm to put them on the SW-1 axles.   I can't remember, but I think I narrowed the tread width on my S2 wheelsets so they wouldn't short on switch frogs.  As I recall, the original S2 wheels were really wide, but maybe I don't remember that correctly.

And having said THAT, today I decided to go through the exercise of replacing all the wheels on my SW-1 with modern Kato wheels. I am boring them all out and installing 8 new wheels.   I want to see how difficult (or not) and practical this is.   This is made terrifically easier by the fact that I did... FINALLY... buy myself a lathe a few months ago.

I will post photos of how this looks when I'm done with it, probably later today.

Let me know where to sign up to get some of my wheels done.

[peteski]

So Max, you will still end up with the Arnold insulated wheel and a "new" wheel electrically connected to the axle?  So you can only make as many replacment wheelsets as you have the old Arnold S2 locos?

[wazzou]

...And having said THAT, today I decided to go through the exercise of replacing all the wheels on my SW-1 with modern Kato wheels. I am boring them all out and installing 8 new wheels.   I want to see how difficult (or not) and practical this is.   This is made terrifically easier by the fact that I did... FINALLY... buy myself a lathe a few months ago.

I will post photos of how this looks when I'm done with it, probably later today.

So Max, you will still end up with the Arnold insulated wheel and a "new" wheel electrically connected to the axle?  So you can only make as many replacment wheelsets as you have the old Arnold S2 locos?