Silcon Valley Free-MoN: A new yard has begun

[RBrodzinsky]

Today’s big event on the work, my first multiple switch! I know many folks have done this, many times, but I’ve always avoided it.

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[bdennis]

Nice work Rick. I too use the wider throw bar on the point rails to make them more reliable.

If using the fast tracks jig, then just keep en eye out for the guide rails near the frog. i find the jig position too tight for some rolling stock and move them inwards towards the frog ever so slightly to enable more play.

[RBrodzinsky]

Nice work Rick. I too use the wider throw bar on the point rails to make them more reliable.

If using the fast tracks jig, then just keep en eye out for the guide rails near the frog. i find the jig position too tight for some rolling stock and move them inwards towards the frog ever so slightly to enable more play.

Yep, learned that when I first started using FastTracks.  I immediately check the flangeways with an NMRA gauge before I even install the frog.

[Chinapig]

Hi Rick,
I've been following this thread with great interest as I'm currently thinking of doing something very similar for use on our oNeTrak set-up here in the UK.  I also use Fast Tracks jigs to build turnouts so that's of additional interest too.
One thing, the track alignment plates look like a great idea - what thickness of cork road-bed are you using?
Cheers, Ted

[RBrodzinsky]

Hi Rick,
I've been following this thread with great interest as I'm currently thinking of doing something very similar for use on our oNeTrak set-up here in the UK.  I also use Fast Tracks jigs to build turnouts so that's of additional interest too.
One thing, the track alignment plates look like a great idea - what thickness of cork road-bed are you using?
Cheers, Ted

1/8" roadbed

[RBrodzinsky]

Phase 1 complete! 17 #8 switches done. 1 Wye, 7 lefts and 9 rights (with one L/R pair built together)

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[Cajonpassfan]

You go Rick! Very nice...
Otto

[RBrodzinsky]

Well, after finishing those first 17 #8a, I managed to (1) hurt my back and (2) get sick, basically sidelining any work for about 10 days. But, I got busy mid last week, and this morning finished up the 16 #6s. Still have to isolate the frogs on the 6s

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[bdennis]

Nice work.. Looking great. I pre weather mine before installing them.

[RBrodzinsky]

Yep, me too!

[RBrodzinsky]

Yesterday, the modules started out “in the rough” as lumber and wire were purchased

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Today, with the help of my neighbor and his table saw, things began to be a little less rough

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[RBrodzinsky]

It has been quite a while since I’ve updated this thread, which doesn’t mean progress stopped, although it did take a couple steps backwards at first and then a long pause for a vacation and the fires/smoke.

After cutting the end plates, as shown above, we attempted to precision drill locator pin holes so that the module ends could use fancy McMaster Carr hardware to ensure that the modules align perfectly. My neighbor does not have a mill or any fancy locating equipment, so, we tried our best, using mechanical stops, measuring constantly, etc. Unfortunately, we failed, but not by much! Our precision was probably between 1/32nd and 1/16th of an inch, but that was “too sloppy” for the hardware. But, one of the members of SV FreeMo-N does have a mill, and also happened to have plenty of furniture grade plywood handy (having just done some work in his new home). He graciously took the drawings I supplied, and the locating hardware, and made a whole new set of 10 end plates. We picked them up from him (lives up near Sacramento) as we were leaving on a trip (I was not allowed to visit and work with him as we were going off to visit our 1 year old grandson); so between seeing the above photos, and getting home from trip, a full month passed.

Here you can see the new end plates, with the locator hardware installed.

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The eagle-eyed reader will note that, even with a mill, he had to take a couple of stabs to get everything aligned to the tolerance needed to keep 12 tracks aligned across 4 section boundaries.

The “inside” of the end plates get a cross piece added, to support the 1 inch foam that is used for the module surface.

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The sides are added, which also have a 1x2 ledge for foam support, and cross pieces are added to provide support.

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And, the first module section is constructed!

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[RBrodzinsky]

Next up was to work on the two curved modules. Here, we let geometry and physics let us make a precision module, with the shape defined by the different lengths of the side pieces.

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The centerline has a 91.67” radius, with a 36” arc length (22.5 degrees). By calculating the arc length for the inner and outer radius, and carefully locating the interior crosspieces, the module frame takes shape. But, not being able to use a 1x2 along the sides to support the foam, I attached some metal hanger straps to provide the support.

Here are the two curved sections ready for their foam (pre hanger straps)

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And they match up with the other section beautifully

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Note: the weird color of these two photos was due to this being one of the “orange” days we had due to the wildfires

[RBrodzinsky]

Work proceeded to complete the sections

Here, 5 of the 6 sections have been constructed, with all the materials for the last next to them

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And here are all 6 sections connected up

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To give some perspective on scale size, my Daylight with GS4 had to try it on for size

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There will be 8 interior yard storage tracks, extending about 7 additional feet in front (3’) and back (4’) of the Daylight.

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End to end, along the centerline, this module is 22 feet.

[RBrodzinsky]

Today, I finally cut the conduit for the legs, and started turning the pink foam into “dirt”

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