Detail parts installation for a Kato Heavy Mikado

[cjp53]

Really don't want to start a 6 page thread,but when installing these parts what type of glue is used?This is my first time with a steam engine applying these kind of parts.Please go easy on me.lol

[Tom Todd]

No glue needed. They “press to fit.”  In other words just press them in and the hole and piece will stay in place.
Tom

[ns737]

yes but some do not always stay in place. I put the hand rail stanchens in place then put a tiny drop of super glue on in side of the shell where they press in. do not glue the black railings.

[peteski]

They are supposed to fit tightly enough to stay in place, but if you really feel adventurous, take the loco apart and you should be able to take a soldering iron and melt the inside ends for super-permanent fit.

And while maybe not a 6-page thread, this will likely turn int at least 4-page thread. This is TRW after all. 

[cjp53]

They are supposed to fit tightly enough to stay in place, but if you really feel adventurous, take the loco apart and you should be able to take a soldering iron and melt the inside ends for super-permanent fit.

And while maybe not a 6-page thread, this will likely turn int at least 4-page thread. This is TRW after all. 

LOL thanks I would not want to take the loco apart.lol Would it be easier to put the handrail through the stanchens  first then apply or handrail after they are on?Looking at the diagram from the Kato web site are all the parts applied the same no matter which road name you have?They give extra parts and I have magnetic couplers already installed.This looks like a fun project that might have some colorful language here and there.I'm starting with a towel under the engine and parts.I just know they will still find the floor.lol 

[Maletrain]

And while maybe not a 6-page thread, this will likely turn int at least 4-page thread. This is TRW after all. 

But, that is because TRW has a very high "coefficient of drift".  We will probably end-up debating whether to use your soldering iron technique, CA or epoxy, with a whole page devoted to what wattage iron and what tip is best.   

But, if cjp53 us contemplating taking the shell off a Kato heavy Mike to glue the backside of the detail attachment pins, that might warrant some additional guidance or at least a link to where that has already been discussed.

[cjp53]

I just think putting the parts on with taking anything apart will keep me sane.I do like the different commentary and ideas.Looks like a half page already. Mike is sending me the diagram but I looked up the sheet and still think it the diagram will help as well as any pictures I can find.

[ns737]

you mean Mike did not put them on for you

[Chris333]

How many posts fit on a page? 

[ns737]

be real careful of the drawbar . I always remove the drawbar and tender then i put the detail parts on.

[glakedylan]

<tongue in cheek>


if you press fit, after a couple years you can pull all the details off
and put them back in a bag
and offer them on the bayo as new old stock, with pix being the proof!


</tongue in cheek>


@Chris333 i think we each individually set how many posts we wish to find per page
i believe mine is set to 25, but then i could be imagining the whole thing, but i could
swear that somewhere along the way i saw something about the ability to change/
choose # of posts/page.


have a great weekend, everyone!
Gary

[mike_lawyer]

Here is a link to the diagram for the detail parts:

https://hoseeker.net/katoN/katoN282mikadopg1.jpg

As far as adhesive, I would just use a small dab of CA to hold the staunchions in place.

[RBrodzinsky]

I press the rail through the each stanchion while it is still attached to the sprue. Makes it much easier to then get the stanchions into their holes. Never use any adhesive.

[SkipGear]

I'll chime in...if you feel the need to some sort of adhesive, use micro kyrstal clear from microscale. Less chance of marring anything and should you need to take the parts off, it will still release with a bit of effort.

The tip to leave them on the sprue is also a very good one.

Also, the trick of working in a box also helps contain flying pieces that spring where they shouldn't.

[nickelplate759]

.....
Also, the trick of working in a box also helps contain flying pieces that spring where they shouldn't.

Do this!  Pieces will get dropped or go flying and are darned hard to find.  There are a few spare stanchions on the parts tree, but no spares for anything else.  I used a plastic shoebox and it saved me much tearing of hair.